Trip: Weekend Ice in Hope - Sailor Bar + Jarvis Bluffs
Date: 12/3/2006
Trip Report:
So after telling everyone that Hope was gonna be "out" and the Canyon was gonna be "in" this weekend it turned out that Hope was in and the Canyon was mostly out. Hmmmm
Fern, Chris and Mer came out on Saturday morning. Fern and Chris took off right away & ended climbing the unclimbed curtain above Happy Boy at Goldpan I'll let Fern describe that b/c I just heard Mer's end of the cell phone conversation afterwards. I heard something about a broken pick though
Mer and I drove up to Jackass, which had a couple big wet holes. So we drove back to Superheroes Cirque. Ultrawoman looked a bit iffy, so did the unclimbed thing next to it, but SBG was blue and fat so we climbed Sailor Bar Gully. 3 pitches, 2+, 2 and 2, fun climbing though. The second pitch is a ramp in a chimney, fun fun.
SBG
P2
P3
We finished Saturday off with some roadside bouldering
We did a little scouting up the Coq for Sunday, and then drove back to the Wack, where we saw this hotness in the sky
So today Shaun came along and we climbed as a party of 3. we headed to Jarvis Bluffs. Shaun was itching for a rematch with NW Passage but the first pitch had fallen apart (actually, whew )
So we climbed Momentary Lapse at the left end of the Bluffs. This is supposed to be a 4 but I didn't want to go up the normal finish because it was a little bit detached and there was wet dirt and cedar roots up there. Instead I made a fun traverse way right that felt more like 3+, and climbed a chimney between ice and rock to a ledge, where the belay ended up being some screws in a cracked icicle, a "bomber" Spectre in a crack and a slung cedar the size of my arm but we did find a better rap anchor thanks to Shaun's Tree Service arborial skills.
Double rope seconding
Brawl for the final chimney
Rap off
Shaun does some bouldering
Black and White at extreme left, As Seen On TV scary thing in the middle.
By the time we got down it was just after noon, and it had warmed p from -3 to +2 and things were wet and melting. We saw a big chunk fall off ASOT. Shaun took off right away, M and I decided all this roadside ice was unnatural so we went for a short bushwack through knee-deep snow and prickle bushes to look at some unclimbed thing that turned out to be only about 15m high, and melting too. Then we called it a day and hit the Blue Moose for espresso
I think that's it for this cold spell around Hope but I have high hopes for the rest of the winter
Gear Notes:
"Bomber" Spectres are mandatory. But in most places you could get 17cm screws in. I could have used some TriCams for the top of Momentary Lapse, but I left them in the car
Approach Notes:
Drive car to base of ice route and climb, both days :tup: