jkrueger

15) They don't complain when you blow all your dough on gear because "it's for them too." 16) Unlike all their other $100+ shoes, rock shoes and mountain boots at least serve a utilitarian purpose. 17) Hard women like hard men.

quote: Originally posted by Son of Caveman: jkrueger, get serious. have you ever known a climber that didn't have his mind in the gutter? Have you ever known anyone in Spray to be serious? My mind is so far in the gutter that I was just tryin to fool myself!

quote: Originally posted by Anna: Why I love men that climb: 5. There is nothing like a man with a full rack dangling from his chest... The opposite holds true as well, as there is nothing like a woman with a full rack dangling from her chest. I'm talking trad gear here - get your mind out of the gutter!

I talked to some friends who drove out to Flagstone yesterday. They said they made it to the last fork in the road, about 1-1/2 miles from the crag, before being stopped by knee-deep snow. There were some people tracks and some dog tracks going on from there, but no tire tracks. Perhaps by late May things will be cleared up?

quote: Originally posted by sk: Strength of mind is important in map reading, or at least so I understand. Strength in body is important in that I have enough trouble hauling my own ass where ever I want to go. Can't realy be helping the "map reader" now can I? Ummm... I think you need a map to my point. You said a strong man was needed to read the map, and the only reason I can come up with for that one is so he's all the better to gape at!

No offense to reputable guides, but it seems mountaineering is going the way of prostitution - anyone with the greenbacks can get a little. I guess it just depends if you're into it for the thrill of the chase, or you just want to get your rocks off!

quote: Originally posted by sk: I just need a nice strong man arround who can read a freaking map. That I can NOT do. It's been said about me that I can get lost in my own back yard Is that a NEED or a WANT? It seems you are implying that said strong man must also fill other prerequisite duties, as being strong has absolutely nothing to do with the ability to read a map. quote: Originally posted by sk: Paid or unpaid, either will do. I just think that it is more fun if you don't pay for the whole "experience". seems like it's buying friends IMHO. Guides aren't paid to be your friends - they're paid for the skills and knowledge they possess, and to do the job you hire them for. [ 05-07-2002, 04:30 PM: Message edited by: jkrueger ]

quote: Originally posted by Pepper Boy: Someone recently asked me if I was ever going to post about climbing on this site. And here is my opportunity. THAT'S what I love about alpine. There's so much going on that demands your attention that all the piddly ass stuff becomes irrelevant. Like having a booger on your face. Nice segue. But what if you're a toproper with a booger on your face - what then?

quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: Why is it such a big deal to produce a bouldering guide for areas in Washington? Why can't a guide be produced for the sole reason of helping people find areas that have awesome problems? Isn't that why we have hiking guidebooks around the world - so we can find and hike a spectacular trail? Why can't guides for bouldering be done in the same spirit? What's wrong with finding a great boulder or boulder problem and sharing it? Is finding one and sharing it any different than finding a great trail or route and sharing them? What gives... It has been my experience that people who find boulders that are worth climbing like to keep the info to themselves and a few trusted friends for as long as possible. They'll let you know it exists, and maybe what's there, but not where it is. Damn, I want to know where those boulders are! But can you blame them for not telling? As soon as word gets out the place is sure to be overcome with people, and the area suffers the consequences: rap-bolted boulder problems, top rope anchors, litter, noise, traffic, erosion, people, dogs, kids, etc. Before you know it, a pristine natural setting is turned into something completely different. This is, of course, an extreme analysis, but this is the fear that I think most people have of letting word of their secret spot slip out. It's the fear of that one lame person out there that ruins it for the rest of us responsible and interested climbers. I think publishing a guidebook is like the kiss of death for an area, forever changing what it is and what it will be.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: HOWEVER imagine the shock when i saw the caption. 'rachel and jason [ i think thats his name...] babkirk'. immediately scanning the text to see if she's MARRIED and then it says "her brother jason" somewhere. WHEW!!! Yeah Dru - that was a real close one!

The corporate ad machine is only getting worse in its use of us climber folk to promote and sell their products. Emotion sells product, and everyone wants to feel like we do - only they don't want to get off their duff to do it! So, they are able to live vicariously through us by buying shit that none of us really use. By the way, does anyone know where I can get an Old Spice sticker for my vehicle?

Shop around in the bargain bins of online retailers. Most of the stuff has been discontinued, so you won't be the height of fashion, but if you shop around and don't mind wearing hideous colors you can find killer deals. REI Outlet Sierra Trading Post Planet Outdoors

quote: Originally posted by chucK: Why would it be acceptable to do this stuff in a gym but not at a toprope crag? Because everybody knows that people who go to the gym cannot be held to the same standard as those who climb actual rock - so we cut them some slack! Actually, I was taught not to go on, under, over, or around anybody else's rope when they're climbing as a matter of safety (and respect). I adhere to this wherever I climb - indoors or out. In the gym, however, there are more people crowded into a confined space. If there can be such a thing as an "established ethic" at a gym, I believe it allows for boulderers to cross the path of topropers. But when I have seen it done, the boulderer has always asked permission or gave a heads up. In the outdoors, there's more space so there really isn't any need to get in other people's way. And bouldering under a trad lead is inexcusable, stupid, and sure to bring bad karma (if you believe in that sort of thing) - and who wants that?

I think it's a matter of common courtesy and respect, which seem to be qualities that are lacking in more and more individuals as of late. If people would just make an effort to communicate, that would be cool. But if not... As I have not yet mastered the art of farting or shitting on demand, I think I'll try the verbal abuse approach first. If that doesn't work, I'll have to threaten a fall or drop something (accidently, of course). And if that doesn't work, I'll just have to go gladiator style on them. I think I will also adopt this approach for idiots who climb within striking distance of me, dumb asses who double clip into any of my anchor bolts, and anyone who takes my picture without asking.

I'm not really complaining as much as questioning. I was done, had had my fun, and was on my way out. I figured that if the climbers who were still climbing felt that their space was being invaded, then they would have said something. But, as far as I know, they didn't. What I don't know is why. If it had been me climbing or belaying and they were in my space, I would have definitely said something. It's not my responsibility to be responsible for everyone and everything that goes on at the crag while I'm there. [ 04-23-2002, 01:56 PM: Message edited by: jkrueger ]

I was out climbing at the local crag last night, putting gear away after an evening session, when some hipster bouldering dudes showed up. There were still a couple of groups climbing on top rope, and these bouldering guys would just climb around, under, or between anyone in their chosen path like it was their given right to do so. There aren't any actual boulders to climb at the Columns in Eugene, so bouldering amounts to traversing around and going as high as one is comfortable with without a rope. There was 50 ft. of open space to both the left and right of the topropers, but the hipsters insisted on climbing through other people's space. I can understand this kind of behavior in a climbing gym, but at the crag? I found their behavior rude, inconsiderate, and potentially dangerous! So, I was just wondering if people think this is an acceptable bouldering ethic, or were these guys out of line?

On Wednesday I'm already booked for soccer practice with the kidlets... Sorry I'm gonna miss it! I propose sk and Country Jake settle their differences with a climb-off followed by a drink-off followed by a smoke-off. I'm just not sure which one carries more weight around here though - climbing or drinking or smoking? We'll see what happens...

Seems like a cool feature... But like the new polls, you need to be an administrator or moderator to put something up there! So, how does one go about getting an event posted? What about a form we can fill out to send to a moderator? Not that I want my birthday up there, but pub clubs, cleanups, comps, days the mountaineers take over the mountain, public bolting brawls, etc. would be a welcome sight! Keep up the innovation and good work!

My stash is out... Can someone give me directions to the Muir Hut -I heard that Saturdays are a good day to stop in?

I read the Dirtbag article on Yvon Chouinard in Outside magazine a while back and he was commenting on the people he saw on the trail packing the entire inventory of a small sporting goods store on their backs. He said people don't really need high-tech $350 rain jackets - it's just rain! Then the author of the article commented that Yvon owns a multi-billion dollar company that exists to sell said $350 rain jackets. You would think that millionaire dirtbag would be an oxymoron, but Yvon is a living contradiction - he has managed to build an innovative and socially responsible (organic cotton, recycled fibers, environmental support, etc.) company while staying true to his dirtbag nature. Can there be such a thing as an anti-poser? Life is balance. Truth is action. [ 04-17-2002, 02:08 PM: Message edited by: jkrueger ]

Now that extreme sports are oh-so-trendy the corporate advertising machine is exploiting it for all they can. FHM: Fashion shots of women posing lingerie in a climbing gym while wearing a harness - tied in to the gear loops! SPIN: Suburban mountaineers summiting in flip-flops and distressed denim. REI Catalog: Those two idiots hiking along decked out head to toe in Prana clothing with a trad rack consisting of a single cam. I think it's only going to get worse! When I was a young punk I had to skateboard at midnight and constantly be on the lookout for rent-a cops and people who wanted to beat me up. Flash forward 10 years and Tony Hawk is a millionaire, video game, and media icon. We have the X-games, Gravity Games, climbing walls in grade schools, public skate parks, the Eco Challenge, snowboarding is an Olympic sport, Tori Allen does the talk show circuit, and grandma wears North Face. It's not reality that matters, but how it is perceived. Let's see... I would assume that, all other things being equal, a women would prefer a guy with money. Guys with money participate in extreme(ly expensive) sports. So, what is a guy to do if he wants to attract that halter top wearing, 12a trad climbing, Subaru driving hottie he saw at REI last week? Plastering the El Camino in Smith Rock stickers is sure to work, or at least a good step in the right direction! Does anyone know if The North Face sells logo patches?

In preparation for this season of climbing I need to rid my rope of last season's accumulated dirt and grime. As the rain is back, the rope is temporarily out of use so now seems like a good time to take care of it. I've heard of people using front loading washers & dryers at the laundromat, using the tub, and the oh-so-slick hose attached rope washing widget. Of course I want to get the rope clean, but I'm also concerned about ruining it - that would be bad!!! The only thing I know for sure is not to use detergent soap. Any comments regarding tips, preferences, or caveats would be appreciated. Thanks!

quote: Originally posted by Dru: one time coming back from smith we stopped to boulder somewhere in the Gorge. unfortunately some dude with a cardboard thermarest and 6 shopping carts was living in the cave we stopped at and all the pockets in the basalt were full of broken glass, used condoms and shotgun shells. You should have stacked up some of those yuppie thermarests - you could have had yourself a nice bouldering pad! Sounds like the "White Trash" bouldering area. You'd better keep the exact location secret or the next thing you know there will be a guidebook, trails, parking lot, refreshment stand, and angry cave squaters!

quote: Originally posted by Country Jake: come Eugene pub club this week I'd like to meet some of the other eugene climbers, I have some boulders in my yard... i'm a Coburger, a ruffneck climber with little to no attitude... but I'm greedy and I'd like to meet youguys before I let you climb on private land... Yes, I was already planning on being there. I've been digging for info on the Coburg Hills for months! I know there's climbing at the Coburg Cave, and I knew there were boulders up there because I can see them from I-5, but I haven't had any luck tracking down a land owner for access. I think I owe you a beer already?

Carver was on my list of places to check out in the Portland area - with bouldering, it just jumped to the top of the list! I'll sign a waiver and pay $5 to support a friendly land owner willing to deal with us climbing folks. Thanks for the info!