sexual_chocolate

No, but gettin' warmer!

Well, who was the character Dean Moriarty based on then, and NO FAIR looking at google!

Thanks for the reminder, dru. It's too easy to forget sometimes.

Ok. I got one: What was Charles Bukowski's real name?

John Madansky. How embarrassing. And I don't even drink.

A fellow was removed from a seattle baseball game when he refused to remove a "yankees suck" t-shirt. Another case of a privately owned public forum? (although safeco is publicly owned/financed?) hmmm....I can't say i understand the legal distinctions between forums where free speech are/are not protected. and why do people hate malls so much? i avoid them simply because i usually get a headache, plus there are no stores i like to go to, for the most part. except bellevue square has a shoe store with the coolest Clarks i've seen!.

Isn't a mall private property, therefore exempt from freedom of speech issues? Such was my thought....

I believe bouldering to be the best exercise for weight loss. Due to its high hourly caloric burn rate. Books will be written. To substantiate this claim.

Hmmm, I don't know about this advice. 1. I suppose you mean look at feet when placing them? 2. I think there might be too much variability to make such a generalization. My toe/heel plane tends to be perpendicular to higher when climbing.... Also, pointing the toe will often be necessary when makign a reach. And if the heel drops too much, your foot-to-rock contact strength will diminish. I'd say perpendicular or higher. 3. Often true, when driving off of that foot. But again, so much variation. Often you'll want the knee past the foot for maximal drive and for getting all weight on that foot, especially on high-steps. 4. maybe on slab to vert? While on both feet? 5. absolutely. But try it all, and see where it takes you. Sex chococolate: Stupid fuck. Of course this is a generalization! Its just good primary technique to start with. Its not like I made it up, its technique advice I've taken from climbers who climb a hell of a lot stronger than you or me. Dumb ass. Hey, I didn't want to hurt your feelings so! Just pointing out what total crap your advice was . I've climbed for a fairly long time, and actually climb pretty hard, so my opinion is a reflection of my own experience. It seems as though your opinions were from some "hard" climbers, not your own. I'd say question it, and then spout off when you actually get to a proficient level of climbing on your own. But if these ideas work for you, then cool. Keep on keepin on. And not to impress you or anything, but my ideas come from having onsited V8, climbed V10, worked out 5.14 etc etc.

Hmmm, I don't know about this advice. 1. I suppose you mean look at feet when placing them? 2. I think there might be too much variability to make such a generalization. My toe/heel plane tends to be perpendicular to higher when climbing.... Also, pointing the toe will often be necessary when makign a reach. And if the heel drops too much, your foot-to-rock contact strength will diminish. I'd say perpendicular or higher. 3. Often true, when driving off of that foot. But again, so much variation. Often you'll want the knee past the foot for maximal drive and for getting all weight on that foot, especially on high-steps. 4. maybe on slab to vert? While on both feet? 5. absolutely. But try it all, and see where it takes you.

bouldering, power-style, and sport climbing in owens river gorge. buttermilks is more technical granite. lots o stuff.

a 56 k modem and crack-style impatience do not mix.

did you know that like one in every i don't know, many people, has perfect pitch or something and they can sing a particular note without any reference. I'm pretty sure i have that ability, although i haven't tested it yet. i need scientific instruments, yet i have none. i will get some though. then i'll test. maybe tomorrow. good luck to me, good luck to me.

lemme guess: nofx?

he was a film director who was i believe before that an art critic, which for him meant that he was actually a frustrated artist. he lumped most critics into this group, arguing that they felt inadequate in pursuing their own artistic expressions, and therefore turned to villifying the work of others. a generalization, to be sure, but sometimes i swear i see this dynamic at work in myself and others.

jeez haven't you heard his latest stuff? he's gone kinda sensitive and folk now. (What is music?) didn't you hear what truffaut said about art critics anyways? Will not succumb, will not succumb, oh crap....

Sunflower Sutra I walked on the banks of the tincan banana dock and sat down under the huge shade of a Southern Pacific locomotive to look at the sunset over the box house hills and cry. Jack Kerouac sat beside me on a busted rusty iron pole, companion, we thought the same thoughts of the soul, bleak and blue and sad-eyed, sur- rounded by the gnarled steel roots of trees of machinery. The oily water on the river mirrored the red sky, sun sank on top of final Frisco peaks, no fish in that stream, no hermit in those mounts, just our- selves rheumy-eyed and hungover like old bums on the riverbank, tired and wily. Look at the Sunflower, he said, there was a dead gray shadow against the sky, big as a man, sitting dry on top of a pile of ancient sawdust-- --I rushed up enchanted--it was my first sunflower, memories of Blake--my visions--Harlem and Hells of the Eastern rivers, bridges clanking Joes Greasy Sandwiches, dead baby carriages, black treadless tires forgotten and unretreaded, the poem of the riverbank, condoms pots, steel knives, nothing stainless, only the dank muck and the razor-sharp artifacts passing into the past-- and the gray Sunflower poised against the sunset, crackly bleak and dusty with the smut and smog and smoke of olden locomotives in its eye-- corolla of bleary spikes pushed down and broken like a battered crown, seeds fallen out of its face, soon-to-be-toothless mouth of sunny air, sun- rays obliterated on its hairy head like a dried wire spiderweb, leaves stuck out like arms out of the stem, gestures from the sawdust root, broke pieces of plaster fallen out of the black twigs, a dead fly in its ear, Unholy battered old thing you were, my sunflower O my soul, I loved you then! The grime was no man's grime but death and human locomotives, all that dress of dust, that veil of darkened railroad skin, that smog of cheek, that eyelid of black mis'ry, that sooty hand or phallus or protuber- ance of artificial worse-than-dirt--industrial-- modern--all that civilization spotting your crazy golden crown-- and those blear thoughts of death and dusty loveless eyes and ends and withered roots below, in the home-pile of sand and sawdust, rubber dollar bills, skin of machinery, the guts and innards of the weeping coughing car, the empty lonely tincans with their rusty tongues alack, what more could I name, the smoked ashes of some cock cigar, the cunts of wheelbarrows and the milky breasts of cars, wornout asses out of chairs sphincters of dynamos--all these entangled in your mummied roots--and you there standing before me in the sunset, all your glory in your form! A perfect beauty of a sunflower! a perfect excellent lovely sunflower existence! a sweet natural eye to the new hip moon, woke up alive and excited grasping in the sunset shadow sunrise golden monthly breeze! How many flies buzzed round you innocent of your grime, while you cursed the heavens of the rail- road and your flower soul? Poor dead flower? when did you forget you were a flower? when did you look at your skin and decide you were an impotent dirty old locomo- tive? the ghost of a locomotive? the specter and shade of a once powerful mad American locomo- tive? You were never no locomotive, Sunflower, you were a sunflower! And you Locomotive, you are a locomotive, forget me not! So I grabbed up the skeleton thick sunflower and stuck it at my side like a scepter, and deliver my sermon to my soul, and Jack's soul too, and anyone who'll listen, --We're not our skin of grime, we're not our dread bleak dusty imageless locomotive, we're all beautiful golden sunflowers inside, we're bles- sed by our own seed golden hairy naked ac- complishment-bodies growing into mad black formal sunflowers in the sunset, spied on by our eyes under the shadow of the mad locomotive riverbank sunset Frisco hilly tincan evening sit- down vision.

no way.

13 official pitches, yet with a 70 meter rope, we cut it to 8(?) pitches. I don't know what grade he called it. I think VI is a bit silly, unless he was tying the approach into it (the approach is/was horrible). The climbing is generally fairly sustained and stiff, so does this play into the rating? I don't know....

Well it's not a sport route exclusively, nor is it that long. Maybe a thousand feet or so? Out of 13 pitches (some quite short), at least four (?)require some gear, with one 12a pitch being entirely gear.

Hey catbirdseat, we might have a room in my house available for sublet. PM me.

And ENJOY the movement! If you can FEEL grace as you climb, usually your climbing will express this automatically. And it sure makes climbing fun. FEEL the grace! Each moment! Try it and see what happens.

Without seeing you climb in person, it's hard to say what the hell is going on with you, but I would be curious as to how long you've been climbing, how often you climb, and what grades you climb at. Technique TENDS to develop with practice; the more you climb, the better it gets. But you might have some technical inadequacies that are prohibiting you from advancing up the grades? I wouldn't know without watching you climb. Being able to visualize the moves of a route from the ground also develops the more you practice it. So on every route you try, take a look at it until you start to develop some ideas of how it might go. This might take practicing a little patience at first. I've noticed some people get anxious and want to just jump on the route right away, as if this will make the anxiety go away. All it does is make your chances of getting to the top cleanly go away. Which brings up state of mind. Notice this as you approach a climb. Are you feeling anxious and jittery? Maybe take a couple of minutes to just relax and breathe deeply before getting on the route. This should help you relax a little, and might also help you to then see the moves more clearly. Anxiety rarely helps us climb better. Notice your state of mind while climbing also. Important. If you can relax on the route a bit, you'll be much better at finding rests, using rests when you find them, and you might find that you are actually stronger than you think, once you relax a bit and start trusting your strength. But it all takes practice. The more time spent on the rock, generally the better you get.

i mean there's a hell of a lot of good pianists right? and could i really tell the diff between gould or ax or cliburn in terms of technical expertise? maybe, but it is true that all the gould ive heard blows me away, except he plays bach way too fast, so i end up being blown away by his technicality instead of bach's music. hmmm. there was a french guy i heard playing some chopin pieces once, some of his slow moody stuff, and the french guy wasn't that good technically, but there was something about the way he played that affected me more than any technical pianist ever has. sorry i dont have his name, but shit he ripped it up man. erik satie is pretty interesting as a composer and pianist....

Who's a better pianist, van cliburn or van cliburn? I'd have to say glen gould.