Terminal_Gravity

I found roadside ice today, But it was mixed and verglassed. I had fun climbing but it was not worth driving out for. I am going on an extended exploration hike tomarrow and will post info about what I find. Later - steve

No man, your not bugging me. I did respond to your PM. I told you about the climbing here. I have not climmbed Anthony Lakes. There is to much to climb here and when I need more I go to Yos & JT. You can E-mail or PM me any time, but I type really slow and may not respond quickly. Don't take it personnally. BTW I used to live in Milwuakie. PS I climbed ice today.

See, Wdietsch you know I'm right. The best piece of gear; truly is the ziplock bag. 1001 uses. Of course; Dan Larson might not agree.

Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah Yes I Like my #2 Camalot and my ice tool and my Lowe xxxx and my Patagonia whatchamacallit and my marmot underwear but.... Lets define "the best"... It should be useful for several different things and on all types of climbing trips. It should be light weight. It should be cheap. It should be availible in non-speciality stores. And it should make your climbing experience more enjoyable, more comfortable and easier. It is clear that my favorite piece of gear is a " zip lock bag"

We fly out of Portland on Jan 9th and will climb the Polish Direct... unless we get an attack of the small cajones.

Thanks for the info...I was a bit nervous about stress failure, maybe just irrational fears.

The Marmot has half of the insulation that the Patagonia has and weighs 6 ounces more Yes, I am plugging Patagonia. They are supporting me on my up coming trip. BTW they make great stuff [ 12-13-2001: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

I already ordered some Camp aluminum 12 points for glacier travel to 60° weighing in at about a pound and a half. Did I screw-up?

I like Thermarests.

I don't know about camelbacks but I've had two trips ruined by Cascade Designs platypussies leaking. Fortunately, my down bag soaked up the water the first time. OR still sucks.

Anything & Everything by OutdoorResearch. second rate gear at best. IMO

quote: Originally posted by Marty: Terminal, Where is the Wallowas and is there rock climbing there too in the summer? If so then what type of stone? Extreme NE corner of Oregon. Yes, in the summer...the rock acctually stays here all year long; go figure. It's all wild or virgin. Granite & Basalt to grade IV and Limestone/Marble to Grade V. No guide books!

Page 21 i got it Oops...Oh Yeah...almost forgot ---> Dan Larson Sucks [ 12-11-2001: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

quote: Originally posted by Ropegun2001: This guy KNOWS core strength and has even thrown the lengendary Tony Yaniro for a loop. I matched Tony Yaniro drink for drink at the Mountain Room Broiler Is that a good stomach exercise. I used to be called the worlds fattest decent climber...that was back when I was a decent climber [ 12-11-2001: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

Those teeth on the air tech's aren't sharp at all; neither was the designer. As Beck says they are a bit close to the shaft for a boot axe belay. I carefully removed mine and I'm sure that I did not compromise the structural integrity. Other than that they are great axes. Mine now weighs 11.9 ounces Also, err on the side of short if you will ever use the pick for anything other than self arrest.

Feel the Anchor, Know the Anchor, Be the Anchor.

epb - can you eloborate on "Rambo II's rock" ?

A slurp fest indeed.

I top roped falls creek falls yesterday. 50 ft 90-75° M 4/5 thin rotten wet and covered by spindrift. I actually had one of the greatest time ever! Copious amounts of warm glogg helped. To pass one bulge I had to get half into the liquid part of the falls; there still is a time & place for 3 layer hard shell gortex) I think the water was super cooled and froze immediatly when it hit my jacket. I must have gained 10 pounds climbing the route! Falls creek is about 3/8ths of a mile from the hurricane creek trail head. Across the valley & higher up was a beautiful vertical 40 foot wall of solid ice with none of the liquid stuff. I'll be climbing that next weekend.

The big desiel is warming up as I write this, 68 kegs are loaded..... but I'm not. See you guys in Portland. This is the one time I am hoping for no ice...on the roads.

Well? Pick a place & a time & I'll be there

Sold! to Jamie the Decisive.

I'll see you at Lucky Lab @ 7:00pm Itty bitty glasses & Short Hair, & I out weigh Will by 60 pounds.

Unless we get a warm spell or another snow dump this week, I'll be climbing all next weekend and I'll post info.

YES, lots of good water ice formed already and the best stuff is forming nicely. I hiked quite a bit with binoculars yesterday and found more than I expected. Almost all of what we get is in gullies below large colection basins and the avey exposure was to great (for me) to climb last weekend.