Terminal_Gravity

Quoting Yvon?

Ivan, I think that your solution is simpler than the above in your case. Have your wife send a letter stateing that she was not driving the vehicle and has no culpability. I know it sounds too simple, but I'll bet it will work; especially if she has some record of where she was at the time, even a credit card reciept, a phone record or a time sheet from work. She really doesn't have to say who was driving the car. The above being said, I think that the risk/reward ratio is reasonable by using RB dubbya's method if you are not a government employee. Oops, I guess you are. You chose to work for big brother...and I chose to start a business that requires me to pay significant ($25k/year) excise taxes that go into the federal coffers...almost all of us have our hypocracies in this good 'ol USA. Good luck

I'll be at the R&R around 7:30 -later

Anybody want to pick a place? I am really looking forward to seeing you guys.

Any chance of a pub club or a get together this Monday the 11th? -steve

It looks like I jinxed it. After several days of delicious cold it rained up high all weekend and then snowed this morning. The ice is gone Never mind

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/446371/Main/428491/#Post446371

I have never seen crazier weather out here. One of Wallowa counties best ice climbs is in and fat (phat). I have never seen it climabale due to the fact that it is usally a death trap with avy or scary cornices it is also mostly burried until it is to soft to climb. We have had good freeze/thaw cycles lately and some good warm periods to melt the snow and add to ice. I belive the climb to be a FA...but I am not positive. The climb involves about a 2 hour uphill slog approach and about 400 feet of climbing, 5 or 6 steps with steep snow in between. The biggest step is maybe 40 feet of vertical WI3/4. RBW & I got intimidated on the first step and bailed early season but it looks like it is in much better shape now. I would like a partner to swap leads. My work has been ridicously demanding lately and I have not gotten out much but this is to sweet 'a peach not to go for. I post this offer on this thread because I would really prefer to climb with someone I know or I may top rope solo it myself. The best time for me would be to bivy Monday night and climb at Oh-dark thirty Tuesday morning. I am willing to adjust my schedule for the right partner. The time is upon us because the ice may not last. If you would like to finish your ice season with somthing significant and don't mind the long drive out here please PM me; leave your phone number and I'll call. Cheers, steve

I wish I had a good excuse like that but, I had exactly one drink..not really an issue for a proffesional like myself. I was in a hurry to make the last cut before dinner and should have taken the time to find a clamp.

I'm not sure that carpentry and climbing mix. I almost pulled a Tommy Caldwell last night. I did about as much damage to my right thumb as I can imagine doing without hurting the tendons and bones on ye'ol table saw. FUCK! Spinning blades and simple flesh don't mix. The doc says it should heal fairly fast. I won't make it out tonight but I will try to hook with Chris and still get some beer your way. I'll miss you all...I was really looking forward to this.

At this moment I am still planning on making it. I have an old (1986) video documentary on rock climbing (VHS) that a friend did as a class final project at Chico State that should prove entertaining. Cameo apperance by Steve Schneider and interviews and shots of yours truly; 20 pounds lighter and almost as many years younger. You get to see me fall about 30 times on an 11d boulder problem...at least I had given up my pink/with sperm motife printed lycra by '86. (Schnieder is still wearing lycra.) Beer, I'll bring some/plenty...any requests?

Or... unless I'm your rope gun, Tex.

Yeah, but he is the only person that bothered to comment (to that point)...and besides he's Wayne.

Local old timer Cowboy/Poet.

Thanks Wayne...that was what my instincts were telling me as well. Living 5 hours away I was hopeing for an opinion, like yours, that might have a bit more reality to back up instincts.

Is it in shape at all? any chance it might be in a couple of weeks?

Climber killed by wife from complications initiated by fall.

Thanks for testing the holding power of screws Rob. You da man! I've never had the pleasure of testing one. Just curious... Did you have a screamer on the pro because you thought it was marginal? Do you think it held because of the screamer. How much of the screamer was activated. What size rope were you using? And..was your injury from strictly the adze or did you get bonked on the fall or by the block.

Damn, Crackman...Nice job. I drove home from PDX at Oh dark thirty Monday morning and passed that area when it was too dark to see. ( I did not have my tools anyway) The gorge east of The Dalles had more climb-able runnels formed then I have ever seen. I was kicking myself all the way home for not bring gear. And...FWIW the ice out in the Wallowas, which was fattening up nicely is melting as I write this.

You might be in luck, it dumped maybe 2 inches in town last night...and I might be in luck because the stars are out now and it's cold...and I want ice!

The heat of combustion outside the canister has nothing do do with the evaporative cooling inside the canister. Unless, of course, you manage to get a fire going inside the can, which I think is a bad idea. Give it a try crazyjz and let me know how it works out for you. Propane has even been used as a refrigerant gas. It sucks a whole lot of heat when the liquid evaporates inside the canister.

I don't want to contradict Wind Ridge because they make a living off of people skiiing out here...but it did not snow 6 inches out here yesterday....It is however snowing lightly(very lightly) now.

Yes, That is the story. There are some beginer ice gullys open that I have never seen climbable before because they have always been snow choked before.

Thanks Rob, I'm just glad that people like my beer.

As DanielPatrickSmith stated it does have to do with both temperature AND elevation...but the pressure inside the canister is only affected by the temperature of the can which affects the vapor pressure of the iso-butane. The higher the can temperature, the higher the vapor pressure. the flame strenght (assuming the orrifice is the same) is proportional to the delta P (or difference between the can pressure and the atmospheric pressure). So this means that the higher the elevation the better a can stove burns... Let me repeat this - canister stoves work BETTER at elevation if the temperature of the fuel is equal. I ran out of iso-butane fuel at a 4 day camp at just under 20,000 feet and continued to use some straight propane canisters that I had as a back-up. They worked just fine. I suspect that at sea-level they would have been problimatic. I do, however, have a few tricks to keep the fuel warm. Temperature certainly affects the flame more than going higher, but you do get a significant advantage at elevation. The only reason that a partial can seems to lose power faster than an almost full can is because the loss of heat of evaporation of the fuel volitizing inside the can has a much lower volume of liquid to cool down. If you can keep the little bit thats left from getting cold it will burn bright and full to the last sputter.