Terminal_Gravity

ESG it is...I'll bring a few bottles for you IPA diehards. ' be there around 11:00 tonight!

see above post

I'll bring 5 gallons of my Festivale and a full keg of either Breakfast Porter, IPA or my ESG (extra special golden) If nobody reaches a quick consensus on witch one, I'll bring the golden...it's very quaffable. I'll also bring the taps & the buckets. If any body wants to kick down for some ice, that would be nice. Unfortunatly, I don't know yet when I can take off, but I'll be there sometime between 5pm & midnight today. I'm looking forward to seeing all of you..I'm even looking forward to climbing some shit. - steve

It seems a shame to throw these in the dump. Even if you just want the set for a bivy sack. It would out perform any light weight gore sack for keeping you dry. I'm sure the set would cost well over a hundred semolians today. Made by TFN, good quality shit. But, I'm sure I will never use them again. If the shipping is an issue, let me know. it's not that big of a thing. - steve

Made by the North Face in around 1982. The two shells are in excellent condition (except for a bit of that old nylon stink thang). I only used them on one trip to the Karakorum. For those of you that don't know... You wear long underwear, get in the inner bag, get in your sleeping bag and put the outer shell over the entire mess. It adds 10-20 degrees of value to the bag and keeps your down absolutely dry for multi day fun. They weigh maybe a little less than a pound. The trick is to not get to warm or you will be swimming in your own sweat but I had good luck once I accepted being just a little cool. They could also double as a minimalist bivy, two emergency tobagons, or a couple of body bags. If you PM me, include you phone number. I don't have time to answer a shit load of ?'s. I would like 5 bucks for the mailing.

The 22nd it is!

I voted (only once)for the 15/16...but if it's gotta be the next week; I'll try to make it.

Hey Flash Climber, I don't understand the reference to Snake Dike. You suggest reading up on it. Where? The first time I climbed it I wore EB's. The first climbers probably wore PA's. I have known people that have free soloed it by moon light. The crux was well protected and the anchor's on the run out YDS 5.4 were reasonable. IMHO Has it been grid bolted? I think that any solid 5.9 leader with steath 5 rubber, a clear head and a rope with a lower impact force then goldline could safely lead Snake Dike. (Which BTW is a spectacular and very worth-while, albeit technically easy climb by modern standards; contrary to your implication). I have absolutely no idea why a classic and beautiful climb, in an alpine setting, with a crux of 5.7 needs to have the simple 5.4 section made safe for a leader who has managed to pull off their life time best of a single 5.8 move on plastic in a gym. The whole concept reeks of EGO, domination of nature and the distruction of adventure for the committed by the weak. I don't care about your style. Do what ever YOU like in the mountains...as long as it leaves them the way they were for the next party; so that they can explore and challenge themselves the way they want to.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/208882/an/0/page/17#208882 A bit more discussion (verbage) on the NF in summer. That photo looks pretty close to what I climbed...right or wrong.

Hrrumph! Write me a PM & I'll answer...if the answer is long give me your phone number & I'll call ( I type rather slowly.) The photeo is deceptive. I believe it is the taken from a bit north of east and is one of the less dramatic views. The west face is three times as large and has atleast two grade fives on it. If your interested in the adventure you need to post a gaurd on the top to keep tourists from trundeling. Dave Jensen ( of Yosimite fame) put up two routes in the late 70's on the west face. I believe 5.9,a3+ and 5.8,a4. I have soloed a 5.4 grade 3 on the right side of the east face and there is plenty more to climb on that side of the mountain. In fact someone that is a lot more talented than me could could probably out up a new significant free route on the nose direct...if they lived to tell about it. If anybody has a good photo of the east face it might be worth posting...the above photo does not do the mountain justice. All of the above being said, even though I believe the Matterhorn to be the largest face in Oregon; the rock quality is only okay at best and there is plenty of that sugar crust that limestone gets that makes it impossible to climb steep without excavating down to the solid stuff. I personally prefer the greenstone and granite in the area if I am looking for back country adventure climbing.

The Matterhorn is limestone...but there is granite in the area.

Quoting Yvon?

Ivan, I think that your solution is simpler than the above in your case. Have your wife send a letter stateing that she was not driving the vehicle and has no culpability. I know it sounds too simple, but I'll bet it will work; especially if she has some record of where she was at the time, even a credit card reciept, a phone record or a time sheet from work. She really doesn't have to say who was driving the car. The above being said, I think that the risk/reward ratio is reasonable by using RB dubbya's method if you are not a government employee. Oops, I guess you are. You chose to work for big brother...and I chose to start a business that requires me to pay significant ($25k/year) excise taxes that go into the federal coffers...almost all of us have our hypocracies in this good 'ol USA. Good luck

I'll be at the R&R around 7:30 -later

Anybody want to pick a place? I am really looking forward to seeing you guys.

Any chance of a pub club or a get together this Monday the 11th? -steve

It looks like I jinxed it. After several days of delicious cold it rained up high all weekend and then snowed this morning. The ice is gone Never mind

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/446371/Main/428491/#Post446371

I have never seen crazier weather out here. One of Wallowa counties best ice climbs is in and fat (phat). I have never seen it climabale due to the fact that it is usally a death trap with avy or scary cornices it is also mostly burried until it is to soft to climb. We have had good freeze/thaw cycles lately and some good warm periods to melt the snow and add to ice. I belive the climb to be a FA...but I am not positive. The climb involves about a 2 hour uphill slog approach and about 400 feet of climbing, 5 or 6 steps with steep snow in between. The biggest step is maybe 40 feet of vertical WI3/4. RBW & I got intimidated on the first step and bailed early season but it looks like it is in much better shape now. I would like a partner to swap leads. My work has been ridicously demanding lately and I have not gotten out much but this is to sweet 'a peach not to go for. I post this offer on this thread because I would really prefer to climb with someone I know or I may top rope solo it myself. The best time for me would be to bivy Monday night and climb at Oh-dark thirty Tuesday morning. I am willing to adjust my schedule for the right partner. The time is upon us because the ice may not last. If you would like to finish your ice season with somthing significant and don't mind the long drive out here please PM me; leave your phone number and I'll call. Cheers, steve

I wish I had a good excuse like that but, I had exactly one drink..not really an issue for a proffesional like myself. I was in a hurry to make the last cut before dinner and should have taken the time to find a clamp.

I'm not sure that carpentry and climbing mix. I almost pulled a Tommy Caldwell last night. I did about as much damage to my right thumb as I can imagine doing without hurting the tendons and bones on ye'ol table saw. FUCK! Spinning blades and simple flesh don't mix. The doc says it should heal fairly fast. I won't make it out tonight but I will try to hook with Chris and still get some beer your way. I'll miss you all...I was really looking forward to this.

At this moment I am still planning on making it. I have an old (1986) video documentary on rock climbing (VHS) that a friend did as a class final project at Chico State that should prove entertaining. Cameo apperance by Steve Schneider and interviews and shots of yours truly; 20 pounds lighter and almost as many years younger. You get to see me fall about 30 times on an 11d boulder problem...at least I had given up my pink/with sperm motife printed lycra by '86. (Schnieder is still wearing lycra.) Beer, I'll bring some/plenty...any requests?

Or... unless I'm your rope gun, Tex.

Yeah, but he is the only person that bothered to comment (to that point)...and besides he's Wayne.