lizard_brain

Pwned! Lark in the Morning

"Grand Teton" = "Large Teat"

Dusty Strings. Shop Linky Dulcimer Linky

More entertaining too, I'm sure...

Bring fresh batteries for it.

Aren't you glad you posted this in spray?

Assume what you want. I'm not saying that any grade justifies it. It wouldn't make sense to say that "Every route or move above x.x shoud be bolted." What I'm saying is I appreciate that area, and the less permanent alteration there is done to it the better. You miss the point altogether. That's all I have to say. I realize this is going to get me nowhere, and I'm wasting my time. Thanks for listening.

Like I said, justification based on speculation. Nothing to do with reality or statistics or fact. Just opinions. "Let's put a bolt here! What if...!" Entirely based on fantasy. I'll chime in here to agree with EricB that you are a bona fide tool, lizard_brain. You have no ability to view situations from the perspective of others. You only think of yourself. So... Espousing the philosophy of minimal impact and not altering the natural state of the outdoors qualifies as 'only thinking of myself'? Who is the tool here? You morons - I'm ONLY thinking of others. Christ - add a gondola in the name of improving the route for others, and pat yourself on the back for it. Who is thinking only of themself? You're just feeding your own egos. You're the tools. It's practically a scramble route. Can't you just belay someone across that? Get over yourselves. It's all about your egos - pure and simple. What is the YDS grade of a scramble route, in your opinion? Get lost, troll.

Like I said, justification based on speculation. Nothing to do with reality or statistics or fact. Just opinions. "Let's put a bolt here! What if...!" Entirely based on fantasy. I'll chime in here to agree with EricB that you are a bona fide tool, lizard_brain. You have no ability to view situations from the perspective of others. You only think of yourself. So... Espousing the philosophy of minimal impact and not altering the natural state of the outdoors qualifies as 'only thinking of myself'? Who is the tool here? You morons - I'm ONLY thinking of others. Christ - add a gondola in the name of improving the route for others, and pat yourself on the back for it. Who is thinking only of themself? You're just feeding your own egos. You're the tools. It's practically a scramble route. Can't you just belay someone across that? Get over yourselves. It's all about your egos - pure and simple.

Watever happened to minimal impact?

Like I said, justification based on speculation. Nothing to do with reality or statistics or fact. Just opinions. "Let's put a bolt here! What if...!" Entirely based on fantasy.

Yeah, the only thing wrong with the South Ridge is that it's TOO SHORT! If I go do those again, I'll spend a night or two in the basin, and maybe do the South Ridge one day, then the East Ridge the next day, maybe spend a second night and do something else before heading out. Or just hike in Friday evening and do the East Ridge on Saturday, then knock off the South Ridge before heading out on Sunday... Plenty of choices...

I'll add that any so-called 'reason' for this bolt is nothing more than justification. How many people have been injured or killed on this route? How many were turned back by this move? Without solid numbers, the 'reason' for this bolt is nothing more than SPECULATION - purely imaginary. How many years were people climbing this route without this bolt? Is altering this route somehow making this route 'better'? And any answer you give is pure SPECULATION or OPINION. The only fact is that someone has altered the natural state of the route. Thanks for altering the natural state of the route.

Thanks Scott very well said. I think the fact that this is a commonly guided climb, coupled with the scenario you describe gives great perspective. LB....you sir are a tool Brilliantly put.

South Ridge:

I'd say that the East Ridge is a fair amount harder technically - at least in a couple of places, but it is a much longer and like I_G says, offers some navigational challenges, but is a lot more fun. South Face is just straight up a couple of pitches of 5.4, East Ridge takes you up and around, with a couple of 5.5 and 5.6 moves here and there. East Ridge:

Now THAT is a TR!

If you don't find someone here, try Amazon dot com for cheap replacement batteries. You can usually find them there for far less than the retailers charge.

What - no 'rack' jokes yet?

I prefer a gear anchor. Where does one put the cams and hexes? Nevermind the Big Bros.... Ouch!

South Early Winter Spire is a CLIMB. NOT a community service project for some "well respected and vastly experienced" climber. Who in the hell do you think you are? Leave the goddam thing in it's NATURAL state. Let people learn without your interference. Up yours.

Blah, blah, blah. Since when does a 5.3 climb need bolts? So the world's best climber did the lesser climbers a favor and made the route easier for them. How patronizing is that? Just leave the route alone!!!!!!!!!!! :mad:

What are some creative uses for retored biners? I have a couple of antique ones sitting on my desk at home, and a couple at work that I use as paperwieights, but that's about it. I have one that sits on the edge of my desk that everyone, I mean EVERYONE that stops to talk with me at work picks up and plays with. But - what do I do with the others I have at home? What do you do? What COULD you do...?

Whenever I cross that whaleback, I walk across the top of it anyway, instead of doing a lieback (I like to show off). To clip into that bolt, I would have to stop and squat down and reach BELOW my feet to do so, so I skip it, since it is so awkward.

I was thinking the same thing... Does "universally well respected climber in the NW climbing community who has more experience on hard alpine routes in big mountains than half the people on this board put togther" mean "license to put bolts in odd places"? What does that have to do with anything? I've climbed that route a few times, and the first time I saw that bolt there, my reaction was "Wow - that's really strange!"