Jarred_Jackman

So has anybody been above the Palmer lift in the last week? I'm thinking about heading to Hood to do the Sandy Glacier Headwall on February 22-?? and am curious as to the conditions what with the new snow. I know the avi is higher than when I was there on new year's, but some recent info of the mountain or the sandy headwall route would be great! Thanks. Jarred

Hello all, I'm planning on heading to Utah the second week in April, I'll be there for a week and am wondering if anyone has suggestions about where to do. We're definitely heading to the desert, we're going to hike and climb. Just wondering if you had a week in the UT desert and didn't want to drive around a lot where you would go for the best hiking and climbing given the time of year. We're looking for climbing in the 5.6-5.10 range, welcome multi-pitch, but don't want any aid. thanks

If you can climb 5.9 and make it through 11 pitches forget the 5.6 route on Pingora and do the Southeast I think it is, whichever of the southern routes that starts in a crescent moon shaped dihedral and goes 11 pitches. You can rap the 5.6 route and see if you like it. The summit is so nice, and the climbing is great. Also, shark's fin is a good climb if you approach via shadow lake, easy trail in, texas pass is not bad at all, great swimming at shadow. The crowds are hit and miss, we didn't have trouble, the only team on Pingora that day, but the next day we could watch the bullshit around the fourth pitch as parties were trying to pass in a very narrow area. Also, the warrior or the bonet, don't remember which, but supposedly excellent climbing. Get a good guidebook, ours was not very discriptive and left us guessing at points. Take some time for Wild Iris too, fun hard routes, short. If you haven't done the complete Exum you should give it a shot, watch out for the marmots at the saddle in camp, they'll eat through everything whether there's food involved or not. Also, this goes for the Tetons, didn't experience it in the Winds, if a storm comes in during August just find an overhang, Wall Street if you're on the Exum, and wait it out, everyone will bail off the hill and you'll be sitting in the sun an hour later with the dry perfect rock to yourselves.

Are you boarding or skiing down? I haven't been to Pilchuk before and would be interested in joining you depeding on the descent.

Great info, you confirmed my original assumptions. thanks a lot, this site is good for something after all. take care

Do you think an extra tool would be necessary on the Leuthold in the winter? I know people to have said yes and no, but that was for a spring climb.

Has anyone been on either of these Mtns lately? I'm looking at trying to climb and snowboard one or both of them around christmas/new years. Does anyone know if the traveling is good, i.e., snow offers good traveling, snow is so deep travel forward progress is impossible, that type of info, I would appreciate. thanksJarred [ 12-16-2001: Message edited by: Jarred Jackman ]

What route are you planning? Are you set on leaving in May? Jarred

Have any of you seen or been on the Shuksan Arm as far as Winnie's Slide? I'm thinking of taking the Arm all the way to the glaciers and heading up Hell's Highway later this winter but I haven't found anyone who's seen it. I don't know whether the rocks are crossable in the winter, they weren't too inviting this last summer. Jarred

Isn't altitude a real problem for those super small 3.5 oz. isobutane burning stoves? Let me know if I'm wrong but I'm under the assumption that there isn't a lightweight/canister fuel type stove out there that won't let you down at altitude, unless you have some tricky way of keeping the fuel warm. Jarred

I think the bigger problem is the toilet paper I seem to see on every mountain in the state. Why can't people pack it out.

If you're thinking about it already I would say, photocopy the pictures from the Beckey guide and go. Stay high, look for the easy way up, bc there is always a a moderate way up, the hardest parts are very short lived. And yes, the Cascadian is the easiest way down, from the summit you seee a gully almost directly east, it's the first one, don't take it, it's Ulrich's and too steep to be any fun, continue aroundthe back or over the top of the false summit and down the Cascadian, if you go around the front of the false summit you'll end up rapping to get to the cascadian, I did it, it's not the best situation. let me know if you go throug with it.

Have you been to the mountain at all? I don't know what level of climbing you're at but the West Ridge is a great climb, nostly a scramble on either broken slabs that are more like staircases than anything, and various gullies that are simply exposed hiking. If you feel confident in your abilities to do that and maybe some 5.5 climbing solo I would say you have a good route choice right there. I've done it twice and roped up for three pitches total. If you choose the couliours (sp) I wouldn't do either of them now, there isn't any water in them, they're steep, dirty, and thoroughly unpleasing compared to the granite one gets on a good Stuart route. Go in and do Ingalls, look at Stuart, decided whether solo is right for you or find a partner, the days are only getting shorter. PS I forgot to add, you have to stay on route or you'll get screwed, exposed 5.8 type screwed, and you'll be too low to finish the route in good time, hit the second gully from Stuart pass, ascend to its top, stay high, and maybe even cross to the other side a time or two. good luck. [This message has been edited by Jarred Jackman (edited 09-19-2001).]

Anyone done Shuksan via the White Salmon Glacier, Shuksan Arm variation in the winter? I was on it this summer and there wasn't enough snow to cross the last bit of the arm without having to traverse much to low to make it worthwhile. Does anybody know if there is enough snow to make crossing the arm less of a time obstacle. I'm looking at leaving from the ski resort and crossing the arm, continuing through either Hell's Highway or the Hourglass. Info appreciated.

Dru, I comletely understand where you're coming from and actually appreciate the second reply. I hadn't seen many single walls in the cascades, I suppose this is due to the reasons you noted, and possibly the cost. I realize that it's not the best tent for the job in my case and am now trying to get out of from under it before it becomes "used." Later

No, I didn't realize exactly how this website was set up so I listed it in different categories not realizing they would all post on today's new posts. Interested in purchasing?

Matt, I'd be up for the route. Check your email. Jarred

Brand NEW Bibler Fitzroy for sale, yellow, sleeps two, weighs 6lbs.1 oz. $500.00 firm Basically, it's not the tent I thought it was going to be. I'm sure it would handle all winter has to offer, but I don't know how well the floor will hold up to my dogs claws. The tape that holds one of the interior mesh pockets was torn so it's getting fixed at BD and they're reinforcing the tape so it'll be stronger than it was originally. I'll have it back in a week. Let me know if anyone is interested. jarredjackman@hotmail.com

Brand NEW Bibler Fitzroy for sale, yellow, sleeps two, weighs 6lbs.1 oz. $500.00 firm Basically, it's not the tent I thought it was going to be. I'm sure it would handle all winter has to offer, but I don't know how well the floor will hold up to my dogs claws. The tape that holds one of the interior mesh pockets was torn so it's getting fixed at BD and they're reinforcing the tape so it'll be stronger than it was originally. I'll have it back in a week. Let me know if anyone is interested. jarredjackman@hotmail.com

The liners are replaceable. You'd just have to order it from BD.

Dru, thanks for the "hot-tip" about Wal-Mart and their ability to outfit the "moderate" climber in all of us. All others, thanks a lot for the responses, definitely helpful. I didn't even consider the BD sell-out before buying the tent. I got it on a pro-deal so thought of it as a pretty good deal. Considering the "ginger" quality I have to treat it with I'm not sure about keeping it now.

Hello, I have Bibler Fitzroy, supposedly the ultimate in tents. I have used it twice, both times in very comfortable and moderate conditions, babying the tent the whole time. I just found a small hole in the floor and the side pocket is ripping away from it's taped seam. Do any of you know if these tents are for real, are they really that great or are they only great if the owner completely pussyfoots around the inside and never really just uses it as a "great" tent is supposed to be used. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. ------------------