Rafael_H

Very nice, fun route! Thanks, guys!!! Climbed in 4 70m rope lengths, linking every 2 pitches, there was a tiny bit simuling on the second pair, can't say how much but my partner was ok with it. Very cozy, comfortable summit, pleasure to relax a bit on. The register was easy enough to open, just punch in the answer to a common dynamic programming puzzle, but the box needs to be waterproof. I apparently forgot the details on rapping, so we scrambled down to the belay station on the big ledge with the messed up bolt. I'd say relocate those bolts a foot down, or just one." Lots of supercute pikas lagging greenery for nests.

Neither link works

bump. Was this you own canoe? Thank you!

I independently came to same conclusions for the upcoming year: single static and an approved secondary Traxion purchase Did not try securing the device with a stretchable, but will this time, thanks Blake! Before have been using two ropes. Have test-fallen before every attempt to feel secure - never a painful or unpleasant sensation, just an unusual one when "falling" on static, "fall" is never long. In fact it is scarier to hear the two ropes snap against each other! The pro/con of no clutter at the harness vs. redundancy definitely needs to be considered personally, whatever is most comfortable psychologically. The redundancy does cause more attention to be paid to the system because of more parts.

Same here, staying at Hostel Bear. All, stay in touch, perhaps we can arrange for Ghost visit(s), and what not.

Lillooet: https://westcoastice.wordpress.com/ Banks Lake: don't forget the rock shoes

PArk on the west side of the road. Walk a bit up and down, the ice is, or should be visible from the road. The large looking flows way up high are Rambles Right. Cross the road where the east side is flat and boulders start just to the left. Walk winding your way up keeping slightly left (north) but primarily up. If there are no prints you will find yourself bushwacking, do not get discouraged. once cannot hike up anymore you are bound to see ice. HTH...

Happy New Year to all home or on the way to some great ice cragging... outside WA. Banks is empty. Drove the entire line from Ephrata to Zenith, and turned around right there. There is some plastering of ice here and there. Here is Zenith: This is the fattest thing there is. Another climb is along 17 that has a similar amount of ice, don't know the name, in a corner, after Soap Lake. Everything else is a smear/verglass. Cable is tiny icicles here and there. Salt and Pepper completely dry. Nice and sunny though Drytooling mostly on rock? Not me.

Iron, what did you climb this time? Were Zenith and Cable the same as on 5th? Were they a shower? Last time on Zenith I turned back because of a shower covering me in a shield of ice, no joke, so it is a matter of 4 hours one way Thank you.

What Drew said, spread the wealth around I used it quite a few times. Works, but the things is that if your rope is soaking water it is already worn enough to be spongy and absorb, so treating the fibers is not effective anymore because the rope is not just lightly showered upon, it is dragged over wet ice, through the belay device, etc, forcing the water in... The benefit is there though if you just can't get a new one.

Wow, the place is in! Thank you! Looks like you celebrated after (or before) the trip for too long ;O)

beards: Standard Route:

Was there today - Standard still fat and healthy. I just walked up to it, no gear this weekend, but looked more like a single 70m pitch, 3, but very nice. Forgot the USB cable so no pics, Monday. Goat's Beard is in... old goat beard shape, no Sourcerer beard yet, and will not be this season.

Based on the past weekend 15" wheels are just fine unless it dumps a ton, which is not forecast. All roads will be fine, except for trucks throwing gravel against hoods and windshields. There is no plowing for the Crown Lake (Marble Canyon) parking lot though, so I'd take a shovel just in case (I always do anyway). And, bring running shoes in case someone does away with it in their van...

OK, will get it the next year, by then there might be more dry/mixed climbing there Happy New Year to all. Might go gawk at the Goats Beard next weekend.