chelle

Rapping is the worst part of climbing IMO reminding yourself is not a bad thing. I always use a prussik knot and tie the ends when I'm not sure of the rap route or that the ropes are long enough. Otherwise I don't ususally tie the ends. I have my own mantra "i'm the man, hand's the hand, locked and loaded." A twist on the schpiel I say when cheking that my reverso or gri-gri is set up right for the belay. Fully checks my system before I unhook from the anchor and step back off the ledge.

Wow! Bug- glad you're around to recount the tale. A comment about the raps...bring two 60m ropes. A friend of mine was "caught" by a manzanita bush last year when he rapped off the end of his partner's ropes. He was the 2nd one down and the guy ahead of him didn't let him know that one rope had been shortened a few meters. Damn f'ing lucky if you ask me. The walk down the North Dome gully descent isn't as bad as people make it out to be. Just pay attention, go down in daylight and you'll be fine. And the bonus is that there is a natural spring just above the last 5.4 slab pitch so you can refill your water bottle.

I think we already had this discussion a couple weeks ago. Get with the program. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB23&Number=219226&page=7&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

The Bush administration probably considers the boost in morale after her rescue a heroic act. More propoganda if you ask me.

I agree with you Fejas. The thing comes with a lid, close it. It doesn't matter if you're a guy or chick. I hate staring into the bowl when I go into the bathroom. And if you're up on your Feng Shui, you'll know that keeping the lid shut keeps your money from draining away when you flush.

I suppose your right Dru, but if the Apron is really crowded it could be just as fast to hike up to Broadway ledge and bypass that part to get to either the "hook up" with Ulitimate Everything or the Butress...

I think Rock On to The Ultimate Everything would be a good link-up. Linked Calculus Crack to Memorial Crack to the UE last summer. Something like 17 pitches with the hardest one as the last one, that traversing pitch on Ultimate Everything. Good thing I had some rope guns with me that day.

Have a great time. Post pics when you get back.

Is that the itinerary for the full 13 days you'll be int he Khumbu or are you just planning to be on Ama Dablam for those days (3rd-16th)?

GW-you've got us both beat at the "I'm old" game it was a blast! Glad to be back on the rock!

Good thing he remembered his "web" or he could have ended up being fish bait.

Erik - they sent me another copy of this survey. If you come to pub club this week I'll let you have it and you can complete the thing if you want.

That was nice of her. I tired that excuse with the judge out in E. WA about the stupid fish and game pass and they said "Pay up!!" to the tune of $72.

I really like that lame crack called Rabbit Stew. My first trad lead at Smith. Sucks up nuts and hexes like a dream.

Sounds like a nice outing.

The founder of Penthouse also threw his hat in the ring. It'll be a sideshow for sure.

Or pixels in cyberspace. Dru - with almost 10,000 posts you've marked a pretty big territory here on cc.com!

note to self: do not use DRU'S restroom Addendum to note to self: Don't let Dru use your restroom either.

In my experience living with men you would be a complete abberration. They were all pigs when it came to cleaning the bathroom.

Whatever Erik. We can disagree on this one. Not that I don't care about the peaks, just not enought to take time to check a box that says didn't climb it before 5 years ago, provide demographic info because I'm supposed to skip the bulk of the survey and then mail that to them... You didn't get one because they only sampled people who filled out climbing registrations/permits in WA and OR, or had bought a forest pass... Another reason it was a shitty survey and didn't warrant time. Sampling errors will skew the results and I don't think being a part of that is a good thing.

Yeah, I could've written a letter and sent it off to the grad student and vented on all the stuff the survey didn't cover but what would that have accomplished? The questions were more or less about peaks I don't climb (Adams and St. Helens) and whether I don't climb them because there are too many people in there, too much trash, because there's a fee, etc... Also, because of the design, if I did climb those peaks and cared about them, I wouldn't have been "eligible" to answer a lot of the survey because I didn't first climb them 5 years ago. Really it wasn't worth my time.

Got the thing. Read through it, thouth it poorly designed and irrelevant and threw it in the trash.

Whirlwind - like others have said it depends on the type of asthma your friend has and how in shape he is in general. Like the Lawgod, I've found that the better shape I am in the better my asthma is managed. Also, if he knows what his triggers (cold air, pollution, weather changes, stress, allergens, etc.) are then it will help a lot to know if it may be a problem on a particular day or climb. Also, unless his asthma is severe, don't banish him to the ground if he forgets his inhaler one time. It may just mean that he needs a little rest at the belay to catch his breath. If he has an attack make sure to help him stay calm and focus on exhalation, not getting more air in, that takes care of itself if you get enough air out. It's manageable and no reason not to climb.

Tidal volume is the volume of air inhaled/exhaled in a normal resting breath (about 500ml). Yep the pressure differential is what draws the air in and expels it when you exhale. Totally dependent on the volume change in the thoracic cavity when your diaphragm contracts/relaxes. Thanks everybody. I feel prepared now. Time to drink in a couple hours. Yippee!

Yep, presicesly what I said Erik. Fewer molecules per volume 'X' (liter, gallon, cubic foot). Ratios in the volume remain constant for the balance thing, still 20% O2, but the fewer molecules = less O2 delivery on each breath... Thus the need to acclimate.