carolyn

I just started some winter work this weekend at a local gear shop. One of my first customers brought in two articles from a well known magazine and was insistent apon getting the two jackets (fleece and soft shell) because in the articles it said she would look "suave" (or something to that affect). I tried to show her more appropriate wear because we didnt have the softshell she wanted. She kept referring back to the article/ad/review and insisted that she had to get what the MAGAZINE suggested. *sigh* Sad to see people worshiping the words of the media or corporate stores. The things they are missing out on! AND(just to vent) I sold a fricken axe to an elderly man who wanted to keep it in his van and use it to chip ice!!!!!!!!!!! Here im working for a little over min wage so I can afford a fricken tool to climb with (correct me if Im wrong , but that is what they are made for, yes?) and this guy can come in and just fork out the dough so he can chip ice. I dont know if I can handle this retail stuff...but...Prodeals...tools...Prodeals...rope...Prodeals...jacket...Prodeals...gear...Prodeals!

Bronco, There was a bunch of discussion mixed in recently with hollyclimbers post, "what do you read" (?)web page [ 11-19-2001: Message edited by: carolyn ]

cover adzes w/half a tennis ball and make sure they are wearing protective glasses.I think if you brought a young'in to the ice, maybe bring them to an area which has been climbed a lot, where there are already placements made and they dont have to swing hard OR pull hard to get the tool out. Hows about dry toolin'? Kids will amaze you if you give them the chance...just make sure THEY are the one's who want to try it. I also emphasize, when working with kids that the goal is not necessarily the top. The goal is to go as far as they can while staying safe and having fun. [ 11-19-2001: Message edited by: carolyn ]

Weather predicted to be in the 70's this past weekend in MN...and it was!Skipped out of work on Friday to go climbing. Had a phenomenal climbing day in the sense of feeling really connected w/the rock. Not sure if there are words to describe it. Weather was gorgeous. Only people we saw were a couple kayakers pushing themselves off the cliffs a few times. Missed the sky show for good reasons - too much as I celebrated my bday and fell asleep fast and hard! Thought we might see some of it on our way back out to the crag early Sunday a.m. ...too cloudy. Climbed in the rain all day on Sunday. Attempted my first lead (trad)........Okay! So I was on toprope as well! Gotta start somewhere, ya? It was probly for the best anyway, since both of us were peeling off left and right from the rock being so wet. Heading out there on my own to practice placing pro, setting anchors, etc definately paid off, as the person i was with approved the majority of my placements. Now....if we could only get some snow and ice over yonder!!!!! Lambone-your weekend was spent at one of my fav places while visiting WA. Glad you enjoyed it! [ 11-19-2001: Message edited by: carolyn ]

Thanks LorenFun read! If it makes any of ya feel better, we were at 70 degrees again today, here in Minnesota. Minimal precip the past two months. At this rate, we will be lucky to have ice by the New Year

I let a 7yr old try out the ice tower last weekend. He was pretty funny lookin after getting him all geared up. Cute, though I think the tools might have weighed more than him. Had a ten year old cruise up it as well...had quite a few ice climbers in awe of the technique he picked up just by watching. Although, I dont think dad was too happy to find out how much he would now be spending for his son's new hobby. Its awesome to see kids climbing!

ya, those shoes look pretty sweet beck. We are raffeling off a pair to those who demo the boots on the ice wall. (lucky dawgs!) And I did check backpacker last night while doing a search...only thing I found were some hiking boots...and then checked out Kayland I wore an older version of the boots tonight (I think they were the kevlars, fishstick) outside for about 7 hrs...roughly 40 degrees. My toes started getting chilled the last hour or so (and yes they were the right size - the fit was GREAT). Concerns me a bit since right now Im in MN and I will be spending a lot of time outside in zero or below temps. They worked wonderfully on the vertical ice wall. Stiff, yet when walking around in them, they didnt feel much different then a good pair of hiking boots-lots of support, yet flexible. I would highly reccomend checking them out if you are looking into boots. price for the revolutions are about $350. [ 11-09-2001: Message edited by: carolyn ]

very funny lambone just have my heart set on boots that I like (not particularly plastic even)... would be nice if they happened to be on sale like the inverno's,tho.

Anyone ever heard of or used Kayland Revolution boots? I havent actually had a chance to try them on yet...they dont have them in my size right now. The store Im doing some work for is getting a womens version (which is supposably much lighter) in a week or two. Never heard of the company, but the boots have been highly reccomended (if they fit properly) by a few people in the store. Killer deal on the inverno's tho...One size left...my size! closeout sale...$229- discount for working the weekend AND the paycheck I make.I would definately come out ahead with money to spare. I wore them around the store for a while tonight and I liked them a lot more than Koflachs! I will be trying out all my top selections on their ice tower before making a final decision in the next few weeks. Info on Kayland would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! [ 11-08-2001: Message edited by: carolyn ]

Jerry, you crack me up!

Thanks everyone. Lots of "motivating" answers. I imagine it will be easier to find more people to climb with once the season picks up again in the spring. I think we will have at least one more week, if not two left before the snow hits us full force over here. In the meantime, Ive got a GREAT person to climb with on the ice and will definately take advantage of being out there everyday I can (with my new boots ). We have a good network of ice climbers in the area, which I didnt feel confident taking advantage of last year (it was my first season on ice). For sure this season I will participate more in the ice community. In regards to Freedom of the Hills. Its been a good reference. I tend to be one of those folks who has to TRY something in order to learn. THEN, I can use the book to refer back to as a refresher and have it make all the sense in the world. I picked up the Twight book last winter, not really even knowing who he was. I liked the pics and the stories were kewl. Ive read it. But now that I have a better understanding of different aspects of climbing, maybe I should read it again. btw...looks like I might get to be the audio visual tech for his presentation next weekend! YEEEEKS! Enjoy the full moon tonight! [ 10-31-2001: Message edited by: carolyn ]

primate, I still see the random pics on the home page.I LOVE them...bravo to those who take such great fotos and share them! I like the fact that you can get your private messages directed to your email! You also know if someone has read it or not...reminding me... jon i sent a pm to you a few days ago...its still waiting to be received. Is it easier to reach your via email? chau!

pope...and all... I do understand how important evaluation is. And I CAN get it. I do have friends who have been climbing anywhere between a couple years to over a dozen years. I just cant get them out as much as I would like to be out. So while they are working, travelling, etc and I want to be out learning, what are some SAFE ways I can continue to teach myself? pope, thank you for taking the time to respond and pointing out a seriously important aspect of learning. Maybe one thing I CAN do is when I know someone heading out to climb in an area which I think is above my head, instead of staying closer to home I could head out with them and just stay on the ground practicing and letting them evaluate in between their climbs.. I know I have already missed an opportunity like this at least twice in the past month. Time for work... have a good one!

First all, let me thank everyone out there for putting up with my numerous questions. especially when most of them might seem so basic. Let me throw out another one to all of you if you dont mind. Before my visit to the NW last month most of the rock climbing I did involved someone setting up a toprope for me and then climbing. While on my trip I had the opportunity to climb in a few different places where people showed me how to set anchors, place gear, etc. Ive struggled with finding a regular partner here in Mpls. For some odd reason, learning all aspects of climbing has become a priority for me these days (I know, kind of wierd, huh? ). I have yet to meet anyone out here with the same goals. Schedules often conflict as well. Im sick of waiting for others to have the time to go out or teach me what I need to know, So I have taken it apon myself to self teach Now, I KNOW I cant teach myself everything. But I sure can get a good start. Ive met some great people out at the crags who have given me some good suggestions on things to practice. I also have a wonderfully BUSY mentor who has given me bits of his rack. Here are some things I have been doing...*finding cracks near the ground to practice placements.*after making placements, setting up a hanging belay, equalizing the cordelette, hanging on it and bouncing around a bit to see how well they hold.*hanging on each piece individually.*hanging a sling from a piece and stepping on the sling so I can reach up and put in another placement and hang. ( I have to admit, by the time I figured this one out today I was running out of time and opted not to hang from the second placement..got a bit of the jitters, especially after a slight spill I took right before that )*set up a hanging belay and rapp down a very SHORT ledge*been reading long's book on anchors and reviewing things in the freedom of the hills book. So, Im wondering what others have done to help teach themselves and give them confidence when they cant find a partner to climb with? AND...what have you done that you WOULDNT suggest other people do (mistakes you have made which could have cost you dearly)? I appreciate any suggestions. carolyn

I found this while surfing the other night...http://www.tradgirl.com/rc/faq8c.htm#belayloop I particularly like the first entry.

terminal, just out of curiousity...how much DID you get those tickets for? and are you flying into argentina or chile? Dont forget a good report and some pics to post...otherwise I might have to hunt you down when Im back in the area next spring. Have a FUN and SAFE trip!!!!! Oh yes, and I will be spending as much time as possible on the ice between mpls and ontario. Looking to get some dogsledding, winter camping, and...skiing in (believe it or not I have NEVER been skiing ). I LOVE winter! [ 10-26-2001: Message edited by: carolyn ]

Mark Twight is speaking in mpls, not seattle on 11/10. sorry. I just interviewed to be a stock girl horror for the expo so I can get that massive discount. If Im real lucky they might let me belay on the ice wall. Might not leave me time to see twight. But I will try. oooh...we got an inch of snow last night! Too bad its all blown to hell from the 50 mile an hour wind! Windchill...well below zero all day!Gotta LOVE minnesota!

summitseeker, yes, I have BEEN there, but never climbed. It is AMAZING and cant wait until I actually have the chance to climb there instead of just watch other people climb (well its actually hard to WATCH unless you are really brave to peer over the edge while not tied into something ). Still working on building up my resources...equipment, climbing partners, skills, etc. The entire climbing area is actually closed right now due to a large rockfall which took place last week. Havent heard of any accidents taking place due to it, thank goodness. Patience is a virtue so they say...*sigh* Spent a lot of time backpacking up there on the Superior Hiking Trail this summer. Ever been? , carolyn [This message has been edited by carolyn (edited 10-23-2001).]

Thanks for asking this question nuts-n-screws! Ive often wondered this myself. As someone who is employed facilitating ropes courses we NEVER use ONLY the belay loop, except for the climbing tower at one of the places (the other goes underneath the belay loop and thru everything). If we are using two lines out of the harness, one goes thru the belay loop, the other thru everything (incl. the belay loop). When I started climbing myself I often questioned the strength of the loop itself. and what about redundancy? I often go thru both the legs and the belay loop (does that make sense?). It sounds like most people are confident with just using th belay loop. The more I learn about the strength of things, the more amazed I am...as if its almost hard to believe. Does anyone know if there has EVER been an accident because of somones belay loop popping out of the seams without any forseen wear and tear on it? carolyn

I LOVe reading these posts of what people climbed over the weekend (thank you to those who start it and participate in it). Makes me jealous! Here in MN, I spent a night climbing in the gym for the first time since my elbow injury. Made it thru a half dozen climbs before it started hurting again...a couple more and I was done in. Lugged around and spread woodchips in various areas of the ropes course where I work on Sat. Some hammering nails on platforms and chopping wood. Can we say SORE arms!*sigh* I figure its good to get paid to get in shape for the ice though Took a friend to an ice climbing clinic at a local gear shop later that eve (they have one of those styrofoam pinnicles). Since it was a women's clinic, I met a few potential women partners for the winter.(strangely enough I have never met a woman who ice climbs here in MN) Sunday was WARM here...60's. I went out to a local crag and practiced setting up topropes, anchors, and placing gear. Got some bouldering in...and after dropping my trekking poles, wound up having to free climb a rock about 100 ft up from the water in order to reach a spot where I could go down and retrieve them (after leaving a pair on mt.baker during my visit, I wasnt about to lose another pair!). Might be "nothing" to people who are out climbing all the time. But to me it was pretty nervewracking. It was definately a good learning weekend for me!

Again, thanks for all the suggestions. I have had quite a few people suggest Scarpa Invernos to me - both on this site and in the stores and climbing community around here (what there is of one here anyway ) While I was in a local gear shop (NOT rei ) this weekend I spoke to someone a little more on the boot issue and tried on the Invernos. The guy suggested I apply to work their winter expo. I guess they hire people to lug around tables, direct people, etc. In exchange you get paid (just over min wage) and then can use your check toward employee prices for gear. He wouldnt tell me how much it would be discounted off the 419.00!!!! He did tell me If I worked three days I would DEFINATELY be able to purchase them with just the money I make from the expo. Im scheduled to work the entire weekend for my other job. Trying to get out of it. Sent in my appl. today. Fingers are crossed! Oh ya, Mark Twight and Peter Athens are scheduled to do presentations at the expo (not together ). Anyone seen either of them speak? We are pretty starved for climbing entertainment out here, though...so anything will do. Im curious to hear Mark's presentation though. Anyway, thats my update on the boot situation. keep those fingers crossed that they will hire me for the weekend and I can get out of my other job! chau!carolyn ooops, my mistake...nepal extremes are the boots Ive been looking at , not invernos. [This message has been edited by carolyn (edited 10-24-2001).] [ 10-25-2001: Message edited by: carolyn ]

haireball, The most recent experiences I have had there wasnt even in the footwear dept. Camping..and then last night in climbing. On the other side of the coin I HAVE had some decent help there as well. Mike...spikes on my shoes, huh? Very creative. Thanks for the idea... I think by the time I figure out how to make them I might as well spend my time chopping steps on vertical routes and climb in my mukluks. Hmmmmmmmm? Maybe that is the solution, huh?!?!?!?! Could be some good learning there..and definately some weary arms!

hehe This made me laugh. Thanks for the giggle and the response Jerry.

Hey thanks for all the great thoughts everyone! Yes, bronco an all around climbing boot is ideal. Im gonna be scraping just to get one pair. I cant afford two different tpes to fit my mood of the day unfortunately at this point in my life. If I was planning on staying in MN and only using them to climb vertical ice, the decision would be easy....plastic. But my plans have me venturing off to visit other places with the possibility of moving in the next couple years. I hope that whatever I decide will be practical for where ever I might end up (ya, I may be asking the PNW to adopt me in the near future ) Again, thanks for the thoughts. Im learning when I want to make an important purchase like this I need to gather as much info as possible and KNOW exactly what I want when I walk into REI (which happens to be the most reasonably priced store in the area). Otherwise they tend to try and sell what "they" think is best for you instead of giving you the information you need and HELPING you make a decision that is really best for YOU. I dont get it? They individually dont make anything off what they sell do they? Okay, sorry...I just had yet another bad experience at REI last night. I will get off the tangent. Maybe I should just send them a letter expressing my concerns instead. *hmmmpppffff* I cant believe it, but Im leaning toward leather...I will check out the sites a few of you left for me. And maybe with rei canning their rentals they will be selling boots cheap and I COULD potentially afford two different kinds! carolyn

lambone, okay , let the newbie in me shine Lambone, how do you think? I guess my understanding is because plastic is stiffer it is easier on vertical ice. Although, I havent used leather while climbing vertical ice, so I dont know. Shit, I had another thought/question and Ive totally spaced it... Oh well. I think I need to go to sleep. Its much later here! Night!