carolyn

spray is aid

haha! Ya. That was last year. The first "ice fest" for the quarry. It was put together in conjunction with the small town it sits in, due to controversial access issues. They attempted to farm it beforehand, but...no comment.

Not the greatest photo, but here is a bit more of the area.

Nothing worth writing home about. Its all mother nature seems to be giving us right now. Fresh snow and sun, but where is the ice??!! The trees releasing snow, only to allow us to climb dry rock in wet shoes. ] The corner climb fell down about an hour later. None of this may seem all that appealling. This area is about 70'-80' vertical sandstone. It actually provides some extremely challenging mixed lines. Gotta Make do with whatcha got!

guess I was a little slow on the go there, Flush. Either that or I just type really slow. Good thoughts.

High on Rock- Leashes - minimal chance of dropping a tool, which could be a big problem if you are leading or doing any multipitch climbing. You can hang from your leashes when super pumped as a way to take a rest when you are not in a position to take a 1 or no-handed rest. Leashless - More of a chance to drop a tool. Though, with practice, awareness, and care it becomes less of an issue. More opportunities to rest and shake a hand or two when pumped. You can often cover more ground with less swings due to the ability to match and bump up on the handle. More creativity in movement (for myself anyway) with being able to crossover easier and/or switch hands on your tool. Combo - There are tools out there that can be used with or without leashes. On those tools you can stick the andriod leashes on, as dru mentioned at one point. That way, you can easily unclip from the leash when you want more freedom, but clip back in when you need more security. The shaft designs are not as crazy as straight leashless tools. Some allow you to add a bump above the normal grip so you can use the tool similar to ones with more ergodynamic (is that the word Im looking for?) shafts. A lot of the leashless tools were designed for drytooling, mixed, and sport/competitive climbing, but soon came into the mainstream market because they were kewl looking, crazy, the euros used em? Who knows. So, at first they were either better designed for ice or rock. Most companies are trying to come up with a leashless tool that performs equally as well on rock and ice. It seems like this year they are making a step in the right direction in that regards. Try out lots of different tools when you have the chance. Read some reviews, ask others what they like and dont like. Learn how to climb both with and without leashes. Then, decide for yourself. Oh ya - and have fun!

dmuja I dont know why, but I get dizzy reading your posts!

heck, climbing is aid!

DOH! (we need a slap yourself on the head gif)

Why not just do what works best for YOU and leave it be?

I drop mine all the time! hahhaa! Actually, I dont anymore. The first season (getting used to them) most of the folks I climbed with dropped them from time to time-including myself. Its a rare event to see that happen now. You just learn how to be more aware, I guess. I started climbing with leashes. That lasted two years. I switched to leashless and love them. I honestly wouldnt, and havent, hesitated leading with them because they are more comfortable to me. I did, however, try using some leashes a few years ago and had a hell of a time with them. I think leashes have their place. For me, its important to switch back and forth, so when I feel I need them, Im comfortable. In regards to new folks learning leashless. Thats how I see it here in the midwest. Its actually rare to see someone with leashes on their tools, unless they are pushing their leading level. You can always carry a third tool if youre worried about dropping them. One thing I notice when tr'ing harder routes is that I often hang more than I would if I have leashes. Mostly, because Im so pumped and dont want to drop them or have them 5+ feet above me. Unplanned falls suck! In a sense I guess leashes would be considered aid,because they might be the only thing keeping you from falling - but thats an old debate. Just fricken climb with whatever works best for you. And Pope - I just watched an entire climb fall today, approx 30 min after climbing 10 feet from it. The last thing I am worried about while ice climbing is getting hit by a dropped tool. Random ice chunks are far more frequent.

Cute! Sorry, to mention this, but...this kinda goes back to the whole "hood" debate. It's PERSONAL CHOICE based on your knowledge, experience and instinct. I honestly cant believe there are ANY females who has chosen (and often not chosen) to have a child and want to harm it in any way. this includes those messed up on drugs and alcohol. There is a unexplainable, remarkable bond that takes place in pregnancy. Of course there is often one with the father as well (which I will never know). It will never be the same, though. Sometimes you just have to trust that the female knows and understands what is best for them and their child. In some cases that may involve little activity. I place no judgements on those who make that choice. Consider some of the research regarding what the baby senses while in the mother's womb. Could it be possible that the feelings mom has while climbing might be passed down? How about the possibilities of inspiring adventure and freedom into a child before he/she is born? good on her, as I trust she made the best decision for both her and her child based on dr recommendations and instinct.

Thanks for the input. I read quite a bit of the website again. Some things have changed since I looked at it last summer. nothing drastic. Who ever suggested getting in touch with amga - good idea. I have quite a few questions, so I think I will give them a ring and see if they feel this is appropriate 'next step' to take. I'm leaning toward, YES. Reading the site inspires me to work even harder at my climbing so I could take the rock guide course in the future. There sure is a lot of paperwork to fill out, in addition to a pre-test from the guiding company teaching the course. YIKES! One question I might throw out...What would you define as a 'guide'. A lot of the questions they ask are about your guiding experience. I teach classes and clinics, I facilitate ropes courses, I have taken new folks out climbing often, and led week long camping trips. I have lots of leadership experience in the outdoors. I guess I consider guiding as taking a paying client climbing outside. I wouldnt consider anything I have done to be congruent with that. There are also a few classes this spring at smith. Im planning on heading to the PNW in late march/early april. Its tempting to do it out there! I will keep you posted on the information I get and what I decide. Thanks again! carolyn

Wow! Glad you and everyone else involved came out alright (though dental expenses can be outrageous!). Thanks for the photo. it definately puts into perspective what a mountain can do.

I dont doubt that. Does it make me more marketable and less liable, though? If not, I can and do learn a lot from partners who have already taken the class or have been climbing for decades. I would rather put the money into wfr or an extended climbing trip if its not going to help me be more credible with the work I do.

In honor of Kurt and the recent activity on this site (neither of the two related - or is it? )... Need I say more?

Im starting to do a bit more climbing instruction through a gear shop and working on some potential projects with a few organizations to develop/lead some climbing programs for them. I also help teach clinics at some ice festivals and have been asked to do some private lessons. (The funniest one was one of the major US advertising firms asking me to help them design a climbing wall to put in their office and supervise for a one night gig. Made some good money, got some free gear, and had them donate the wall and remaining gear to a inner city school I used to work at ) Anyway, I know I have to be careful about this type of activity due to liability. Ive looked at the AMGA site and wondered how useful the top rope site manager certification would be. The Rock Guide Cert would obviously be the most credible. However, the likelihood of me leading 10+trad on a regular basis in the very near future is probably not feasible. Thats what they seem to require in order to take the course. Has anyone taken this course before? Other than maybe learning some kewl new tricks, will it offer me any security regarding liability? Will it look good in the eyes of the insurance companies that my employers work with? How important is it to employers (other than gyms) for their employees to have such a certification? Ive heard mixed reviews from a FEW people. I thought I would throw it out to the masses. And Strickland-if youre out there (or anyone else)...help refresh my memory from Rec 101 regarding the types of organized groups and liability?!?! Thanks!

I third that!

same show, different characters. Or is that same characters, different show?

Soggy wet climbing shoes Dull ice picks 1 ft snow Slushy Ice Sun Snow showers from the trees above. I LOVE climbing - especially in MN! I think there should be a MN forum, if anything for the entertainment factor. Please send ice this way..... SOOON!!!!!

When its time for you to move on, its time. Doesnt matter what you do, where you go, how much you know, or how much you have. Dying doesnt have to be such a bad thing. In buddhism, for example, the moment you die could mean that was the moment you eliminated all of your negative karma (or at least as much as you can in this lifetime). In christianity, isnt dying sometimes related to being "called home" for another purpose? When you look at it that way, death can actually be seen as a good thing. Its the attachment one has to this life and the desire to control it's longevity that is makes death appear as something 'bad' or 'wrong'. We live and we die. Thats the way it goes. When your time is up, maybe it will be in the mountains. Maybe it will be crossing the street. Do you want a bunch of strangers disecting the way you crossed the street and shaming you for not stopping to tie your shoe first? Heck, had you done that then the car that hit you would have already passed when you started crossing. Maybe if you hadnt hit your snooze two times before finally getting up you wouldnt have crossed paths with the semi which blew the red light and hit you head on. Its not that I dont think there is anything to learn from what happened in this accident, or any other. I think what we learn, however, is personal - what makes sense to each person individually. Lets not forget, without the facts we are only guessing/speculating. In my opinion, speculating and obsessing over something like this is dangerous. Why? Because you wind up thinking about what you COULD/SHOULD be doing rather than what you ARE doing. Thats a sure set up for an accident, whether it be cooking a meal, driving, climbing, or walking down the street. We all do the best we can in every situation - period. When the facts come out, take what you can use and leave the rest. In the meantime, the best way to honor them (and yourself) is to get out there and keep doing the best you can. I cant believe once this moved into spray people are still being so critical and insistent on answers. I also cant believe I just spent time being serious in this thread. It is what it is - and thats what it is, damn it!

after my trip to ouray and xmas with gramma who I havent seen for years got cancelled I was pretty bummed. Looked like I was gonna head up into canada in search for some ice this week/end. That fell through as well. Its been rainy and in the 40's for weeks now, with the nearest ice probably in colorado. Im unemployed at the moment, so needless to say I was super psyched to get some extra climbing in this season. I've been going crazy with all this time on my hands and no activity. BUT... Yesterday we got our first snow...3-4inches!!! Im out to clear off the car and head up north for the day in hopes of swinging into some ice as soon as the water boils and the thermos is filled. Though I know I will likely be scraping sharp objects on rock more than planting tools into ice, Im still super psyched to be getting out to play. Here is to many more days of hiking ahead of us!

no shit, now Im thinkin I was lucky that my trip got canned. I was suppose to be in Ouray right before the first storm hit, then needing to travel to denver area on xmas. My flight out would have been tomorrow. Sounds to me I would have spent a lot more time on the road and in the airport than climbing and with family.

I think it was 03 or 04, I spent a long 3 weekish trip in the PNW. I started by getting passed off from Icegirl, who picked me up at the airport, to Klenke-who took me to vantage? I cant remember! Later that evening, Kurt nabbed me and we headed out to Lworth for the rope up a few days early. We climbed Outer Space, in which I did one of the sweetest leads thus far in my short climbing career. It was a picture perfect day. I also saw goats up close for the first time. Damn, they are cute but as you all know, not shy at all! I also had a chance to do some other leads and some rockin roof climb. From there I scooted off with Uncle Tricky. We did some craggin' next to OB. Fun face climbing, which actually made me feel like I was good or something. HA! We also did a route on SEWS - dont remember the route, but it had 2 nice roofs. I was quite impressed with Patrick's leads. For myself, I actually had my first moment of panic while on lead due to exposure. Dinking around trying to find a piece, I wound up putting in like 3 within 5ft. The only one that was "bomber" I guess I didnt clip! DOH! Thankfully patrick didnt say anything until after the pitch. We also did some 12 pitch? sport route around mazama. We didnt finish due to incoming weather. It was a sweet climb and much more relaxing to clip bolts for once. Off to Smith for Love Fest. Though I didnt get so much time there, as always I enjoyed a number of climbs in the gorge. I ropegunned fern on "whereever I may roam", which was a sweet accomplishment for me to take charge of an entire climb. Fern swept me off to vancouver from there. No heater in her car made for a frigid trip. I got my first taste of squamish rock and some visiting with dru and snoboy. I also had my introduction to IKEA, where we had a cheap breakfast one morning. The canadians loved my request to watch the presidential debates at the brewpub. It pretty much chased them all out the door laughing. I look forward to getting back up there. I have a lot of good memories from other trips to the PNW. By far one of my favorite places to visit, and some of my favorite people to climb with. to those of you who have always supplied lots of laughs, guidance, and floors to crash on. To those of you who havent - consider yourselves LUCKY!

You've got me beat. I wish I could live up to those standards. I just party once in the evening 12+ hr Time release pills take care of that for ya!