chris_w

I did OS earlier this year. When we got to the last pitch (1/2 pitch, low grade) we saw chain anchors about 20-30 feet left (when you are facing into the wall) and about 20 feet lower from the summit. We decide it was a rap route since we saw a few on the way up. We went for it. The rap was set up for a single rope and went down to the base of the crux pitch. They looked new\good with good ledges to stand on. That is about all I can remember about the raps. From what I have heard, it is quicker to do the walk off.

I'm always up for a few tall beers and even taller tales of climbing. Each beer I'll add a few feet to my last whipper. See you there beck. chris

From my memory, there are 2 couloir on buckner. The north face which you can see from forbidden\sharkfin... Then there is a second coloir farther east (can't remember name) that you can't see until you are right under it. David: Are you referring to this second couloir when you mean the Is that what you mean by the Left Colior.

Before you go, Puget Sound Blood Center is filling up and prefer for you to make an appointment. http://www.psbc.org/community/press/_frm/frm_press0019.htm

I did a 1 day ascent of chiwawa via the Lyman Glacier. Started at 3:30am and returned at 10:30pm. 18 miles, 5000 foot gain and 3 pitches of ice. One of my first ice climbs and it was a blast, until I hear and felt the cracking of the ice I was standing on. Never new I could run so fast with crampons on. Then headed up to do chair on sunday, but got a late start because we were WAY to tired. Made it to source lake, ate lunch, got a suntan and headed down. A perfect weekend.

I agree the mountaineers take crap for the decision of the leaders. Each trip leader makes their own decision on how to run the trip and who to let pass or not. When I am running a trip, if it looks safe, sure I will let a group pass. Now I have also run across a slow party(non Mountaineers) that won't let me pass. Your going to run across it sometime or later. I know that when you post a mountaineers climb, it checks to see if anyone branch has it scheduled. If there is another branch, then you have to pick a different route. All routes should be limited to 1 party per day. While leading trips, I have come across another party of mountaineers that are on private climb. If you ask if they are Mountaineers, they will say yes, because they are. Maybe that is what happened to Goatboy on Ingalls, a club trip and a private trip. my 2 cents

Southern Drink!!!! I lost my supply chain 3 years ago when I moved to the west cost. I'll dust off my mason jar

I remembered another story. It was mid july and I was coming off of Mt. Hood at about 9500 feet. I saw a guy hiking by himself without an axe, so I wandered over to say hi. As I got closer I noted he was in light hiking boots, jeans, light jacket, one gallon Jug of water in his hand and a small fanny pack, (big enough for 2 bandaids and a frozen power bar). I started to talk to him to get a feel for his experience. He said the day before he had a guide and rented all the gear but because the weather was so bad that they turned around. On the way up I had almost got pegged by a bone crushing rock coming right towards me. It would have knocked me into the shrund. Anyways I tried to talk him out of it, but there was no changing his mind so I glissaded down as fast as I could to get away from him.

I had a partner on W ridge of forbidden that was on the first rap down the Coulior. He was about half way down and saw slings way off to the left (looking down) on ledge about 4 feet about the snow. Once he got on the ledge, he saw lower slings on Right (looking down) and decided to use them instead. If you have been up there, you know coulior has a natural lean to the right. I watched him jump off the ledge land on the snow slide across the coulior into the wall on the otherside. Luckily he had a helmet on and only bruised his shoulder and pride. Now that I think of it, on the way up across the taboo glacier I had another incident with the same person. I was tied into the middle of a 3 man rope team. The leader got off the snow onot the rock and started to belay me in. About 30 feet from the edge the Glacier made some nasty noises, shook, shimmied and I think I heard it say 'I will crush you', or at least that is what I was thinking. It seemed like the lower half of the glacier dropped. I took off running sideways for about 30 feet. When everything calmed down, I turned around and saw the 3rd person on the rope was about 15 feet behind me with about 30 feet of coiled rope in his hands. When I gave him a dirty look he only replied back with a 'What?' expression. I could have killed him. That was the last time I climbed with him.

I can donate a box of garbage bags, TP, paper towels and one old rope. I plan on filling up at least one Garbage bag with empty beer cans And I hope to do more climbing then just climbing out of the sleeping bag around noon.

I think that there does need to be more info on this specific situation. How long was it there? What time did this happen? 2AM? Did you see anyone else on route and mention you left a line behind? I don't agree with leaving lines for an extended period of time. In alpine use, I think that if you leave it, you should recover it on the same day. Especially in a common area like Boston Basin. As for someone taking the gear, it is a judgement call on that person. Does it look like it was left behind (or is it just booty to them). I have taken gear that looks like it was left behind. And I do carry a pencil and sheet of paper in my med kit < 1 oz. Never had to leave a note yet, but I have thought of it. As for the Tooth, I know on Tuesday there was another cam fixed on the south face. I gave it a try, but no go. Just a bloody knuckle. It's starting to look a little bad with everyone trying to get it out. chris

I talked to a friend yesterday that did it Tues-wed-thurs. He said it was a fun climb. Not difficult. They had to scramble on some rock to get past the shrund and they rapped it on the way down. That is all i can remember. I'll see if I can get more info and pass it on. He doesn't read cc.com.

Tuesday I did the tooth. one other party and we had the summit to ourselves for an hour. Beatiful and warm day. I got a little sunburn, but it was worth it. I know Tuesday isn't part of the weekend, but I had a 4 day weekend, so it was for me

I found that if my feet were cold then I wouldn't get a good nights sleep. I tried the hot water in a nalgene bottle at my feet. It would work till about 2-3am and then I would get cold again (which = no sleep). My solution was getting a pair of down slippers. They fit into my stuff sack with my sleeping bag. I sleep in them and when I need to get up, I can walk around with them in camp. They have a sole on them so it works great in the winter time, I don't have to put on cold boots. They are in my stuff sack year around. I have converted a couple of my climbing friends into considering them essential gear. Price = $20

I tried the Northwest Arete of Mount Sir Donald this weekend. It didn't go, made it to 8600 feet. My partner wasn't feeling 100% and there was about 3-6 inches on snow. Wet snow on 2800 feet of 4th-5th class didn't seem like that much fun. But it was a nice outing, we didn't see anyone else except some hikers. Not bad for a '50 crowded climbs on north america'.

I haven't been up there recently this year. I did the n. face about this time last year and it was continuous to the summit, bit a heavier snow season. I know that ehmmic will be on forbidden this weekend and if you ask her nicely, maybe she can take a look over her shoulder and see if the N Face is a continuous snow line.

I moved out here with a saturn 3 years ago and it has worked great for me. The clearance sucks but if I drive slow and careful, I can make it to most trailheads. I don't have problems with the snow. I grew up in it so if you are used to driving in snow\ice, anything will work (just watch out for everyone else). But do get chains, you will get a ticket if you don't have them when needed. If the weather is nice at the trailhead, I through out my pad and sleep on the ground. If it is bad I am able to sleep comfortably in the front seat. I have never been bothered by police or rangers sleeping in my car.

A welcome to the NW when you get in. When I travel with my backpack, I use the Airlines plastic bags. I have never had a problem with damage. The only problem that I had is some airlines\airports don't have them (southwest in Las Vegas :{ ). Check for the plastic bags at the curb check-in. If they don't have them, walk to another airline stand and ask. It was fun putting a big bag with United Airlines all over it to the Southwest agent.

Lets recreate the original topics and then start the flaming all over again Sent to me from a fellow climber: Good judgment comes from bad experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment..

It looks like the moderators have finally cleaned up all the flames, sprays and ddd cage matchs.....and left only the climbing topics.

As I recently retired my climbing rope, I added it my pile of other retired ropes. I am part packrat so I can't just pitch them. So what do you do with them? The only interesting suggestion I have heard was to start with one end and coil the rope around and glue it to a piece of wood to make a doormat. I can then pass them out as christmas gifts. Cheap, but with a personal touch. Any other good suggestions for someone with minimal crafting abilities. chis

I agree with haireball. The upper 2 pitches have enough jugs and knobs that you don't need to be fully in the crack. I don't think I ever had all hands\feet in the crack at once. And the gear placement is great if you have enough 2-3 gear. I you have a problem with the 5.9 traverse, the first crux you can place a tcu with a sling to use as aid.

I started with a one-day course in the Tetons that gave me enough knowledge to make me dangerous. I would climb at the local TR spot (Hinkley, Ohio) and practice. I would learn routes\technique from other local climbers. One day my partner said "let’s start leading, and your can do the first pitch". I had the most experience and I had read a few books. We bought just enough gear to get started and headed to Seneca Rocks WV. I know our first day out on multi-pitch was good entertainment for everyone else around. We only got up one pitch, hauling the 50 pound pack hand over hand slowed us down. From there we would pick up a new trick or tidbit from other climbers and just progressed in skill. Seneca was good for Rock but no real mountains for alpine routes, so I headed west and ended up in WA. I took a Mountaineers course for the glacier travel and to meet other climbers (not many glaciers in Ohio). From there it was just getting out into the mountains. Each time in the mountains I learn something new. Also watch other climbers, you can pick up good tricks along the way. It's been a 10 year learning experience. Just be safe

A weekend of beer and climbing??? sound like a normal weekend for me. Count me in. I'm assuming sept 1-2 (full moon)

I can make it. I am already going through withdrawl from my climbing roadtrip. Only 2 days back.