Walter_Burt

I think MattP put up the last pitch that goes left. I agree it is a very nice pitch - much nicer than the dirty corner to the right on the old route

Sisu, It's a natural gas-fired plant. And, even though it's a "closed" system, the makeup water demands for plants like that are v. large - on the order of 2 to 4,000 gallons per minute or so, depending on the size of the plant and how much power they are generating. Most plants eventually discharge the water because eventually it becomes uneconomic to recycle it because of dissolved solids buildup. I don't have the particulars of this plant, but I recall it's a large one, and I do know something about their efforts to obtain water. Cogentrix has been trying to obtain a groundwater source. When you consider the Deschutes Basin is essentially closed to groundwater appropriation unless the potential impacts to surface water are mitigated for (see the Oregon Water Resources Department Deschutes Basin rules), the impact of the plant could be very significant. I guess it comes down to folks deciding whether or not (1) the water is available, and (2) power generation is where they want the water to go, rather than for some other purpose. I suspect the water issue will make or break the plant.

What kind of truck? I had my 1986 Toyota Xcab longbed w/ 218K miles on it (known fondly by my friends/climbing partners as the "mobile compost heap) with some miscellaneous gear in it stolen from outside my front door this last winter. My wife and I had an argument the next morning when we noticed it gone about who drove it last and parked it where as neither of us could fathom it being stolen. It turned up three weeks later a few miles north of us - the cops think someone "borrowed" it for a drug run. Evidently, older Toyotas and Nissans are popular for that as the manufacturer only used all of four key patterns for their trucks for a number of years. By the way, nothing was missing except the ashtray, which had some pennies in it. I don't smoke, so no big deal.

Jarred, See the attached CC.com link. She's 77! W http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002901

I vaguely remember that Croft finished the enchainment with Prussik Pk. I know he did Stuart N. Ridge, Sherpa, Colchuck, Dragontail, Prussik. Anything else?

Classic Crack at Broughton - 10a/10b and getting harder as it gets greasier. Gandalfs Grip at Broughton - 10a/10b. There used to be a pedestal on the face traverse to the corner that made it a lot easier - you can see the scar if you look for it. There are several other "10a" cracks at Broughton and Beacon that are Index "stiff" Free for All - Beacon. An Index 5.8.

The wind situation was bad in S. Washington and Oregon also. We headed up Mt Adams on Sunday to ski the SW chutes - the winds were est. 30 to 40 mph w/ 50-60 mph gusts just below the Lunch Counter. There was a big lenticular over the summit and Mt Hood too. A couple of people who came off the summit ridge said that they were crawling. Saw a number of tents either flying and shredding.

P.S. Peter Croft soloed it as part of his enchainment - but he did the Gendarme, which was probably a lot safer soloing for him than the couloir.

Another dolt and I soloed from below the notch to the base of the Gendarme 12 years ago while doing the complete ridge. It's all there for soloing though the others are right in that it would be good to get familiar with it first and the exposure is big and constant. However, crossing the couloir was v. insecure (wet, slippery...) - probably the crux of the route for us and we were roped for that section. That section would make an interesting roped solo even. It's not uncommon to find it verglassed. By the way, I probably wouldn't solo it again - but I'm old and the consequences part of the risk equation far outweighs the probability part given increased responsibilities, fear and all that other stuff that comes with age and family. Next time up there we'll probably simulclimb with a shortened rope.

Thanks! That's what I wanted to see. We'll probably head up there. How are the bugs down around Cold Springs. Trying to decide whether or not to haul gear up high for the night or to stay low. W

Anyone been on the south ridge or SW chutes in the last week or so - have they been done in by the hot weather recently? We're looking for a casual boys trip this weekend.

I suspect that the conditions will be good. They were excellent 3 weeks back. Just get an early start or the lower part could be pretty slushy. I've skied it several times in temperatures this warm in late July and early August and the conditions were great. It's a nice break from the heat in the valley too. Scout the slots carefully on the way up - there have been more appearing every year over the last 4 years or so. I went into one up to my hip last year on my way up. It was to climbers left, which is unusual. In the past they've been more concentrated to the center and climbers right. In retrospect, the signs were there, but I wasn't looking for them on that side because of my experience in the past. Have fun

I spoke to Matt Firth on his way out while on the boat from Lucerne to Chelan. He offhandedly mentioned the route when I asked. It wasn't until I pulled the map out that the magnitude of the accomplishment sunk home. He seemed to have a certain serenity about him that comes with both the fatigue and satisfaction of such an accomplishment, not to mention that look of trying to adjust to the flatlands and flatlanders on the boat! Nice work!

Cragging and some alpine stuff in the North Cascades are definitely possible for weekend trips from PDX, especially w/ a 3-day weekend. In the pre-sprout days we did a number of Squamish, Index and Leavenworth trips, as well as a number of alpine jaunts such as Slesse (21/2 day), Bear Mtn(3-day), Dragontail (2-day) including driving from here. It's a grind, but worth it as this is a great place to live. The trick is to not be too tired on Friday to leave in the afternoon so you can either be at, or near your destination for an early approach on Saturday, or for that matter, Friday night. Monday at work is for sleeping anyway. Besides, this place is more liveable and has better beer than any other large city in the US.

That is every parent's nightmare - and on a trip that was probably a dream adventure for them when they started out. Alisdair, were they on the SE Ridge? That route has seen a lot of avalanche-related accidents including several acquaintances of mine.