Pencil_Pusher

Campmor sells a damn book bag made by Jansport, $60. The thing is less than two pounds and I've used it for bivy/climb gear to Prusik, Sherpa/Stuart, and Adams so far. KISS

I like the Arnold Schwarzenegger approach. That, like this, seems anal enough. "Ahhch...Meower bahdee phat. Eye mussst ddreenk meower watter und exthersize fure lahnger tyem."

Why not... I think Retro's an asshole who's lack of diplomacy is going to keep this shit going to the point Govt passes another damn law. Pretty soon we won't even be able to scratch our asses legally. I won't stand on either side, but I do think this is far from over and chopping with arrogance is only going to put more bolts up there. As who ever said, it'll be the rock that loses in this bolt/chop war.

Alpine Tom, Wasn't my story. That was Bronco taking Judd, from what I recall. "I... did not... inhale."

The funny thing is, what the heck does this all matter, anyway? Do whatever suits your fancy, but weighing and fat % is for the birds. Common sense prevails.

It's nice to see there's plenty of folks in not too great shape that can lead 5.9 stuff. Yes, I'm lazy.

The website reminded me of Amway.

Razor blade instead of knife. First Aid? What can you REALLY do anyway??? Think about it. Screw sterilized, it won't be anyway out there. Bandaids, Ace bandage, and Aleve. Jansport sells a damn book bag weighing under two pounds at Campmor. Thing costs $60. I've used it for climb/bivys of Prusik, Sherpa/Stuart, and Adams north side. All of this is for an objective with comfort being left at the car. Being in shape would help too. If hiking close to water sources, don't carry water. Waterproof socks double as mitts. 9.6 rope, wired biners, tri-cams instead of cams. Snow Peak Giga Power stove weighs 3.5 ounces and comes with auto-igniter. Fuel weighs as little as 4 ounces, 22 biggest I think. Beyond that, start dolling out the money. When are they gonna come out with the titanium helmet that you can cook/melt in too?

Wil, It's true, Caveman is an asshole. A big asshole too from what I've heard. He probably climbs better than me so I guess he's even more of an asshole.

A private message wouldn't suffice, Dan?

Fast and light whiner... gimme some sugar, baby.

Probably got the spelling wrong, but wondering if others have climbed this, how long it took and what gear you used/needed? Also if there's other climbs within that 5.7 and under rating around the area that are good climbing? Wired Knut- Keep it up and we'll go for Lost Arrow Spire , nimwit.

Anyone know current conditions for this? [This message has been edited by Pencil Pusher (edited 07-17-2001).]

Turtle, we did the route on Saturday. We first saw two rocks go whizzing down the route before we got on it. One rock while on route. Hey, if you followed the tracks from the glacier to the summit, did you see that hole by the wand with yellow tape, about a quarter mile from the summit? That was Mr. Crevasse saying hello to Mr. Pencil Pusher.

I mistakingly thought caving was all fun and games too. Fulford Cave by Eagle, CO. First time didn't bring a helmet and got lost. Wandered aimlessly for a while before down climbing 4th to 5th shit to reach Boy Scout group below. Second time brought a helmet and got lost, by chance found the way out. Third time brought little "bread crumbs" and flashlight went dead... try finding your damned way out holding a friggin light stick in one hand. It was better than nothing, but not by much. You can turn off your light and wait 20 minutes and you still can't see your hand two inches in front of your face. My only advice is that every damn thing looks the same in there so do something about it. Good batteries and a secondary light that uses the same type of batteries. Oh, bring a woman too.

Between Tacoma and Everett is a town called Seattle. There's gotta be something worthy in the U-district, right off the interstate and equidistant for both north and south folks. Blue Star Cafe is the only place in that area that comes to mind now and even they don't have pool tables. Caveman, get a hold of your partner in crime and figure out a place around Seattle.

Hopefully nobody responds to this bullshit. ...no sooner said than done. [This message has been edited by Pencil Pusher (edited 07-15-2001).]

As to the conditions on Adams Glacier, I do not know. We met two guys on July 13 coming down near the PCT who said they'd gone up the Adams Glacier. They carried refrigerators on their backs and used poles in their hands to support/balance all the weight. It did look like the lower part of the glacier provided access to the route, but the NFNWR route had plenty of water ice on it so I wonder if this would be true for conditions on the glacier too. [This message has been edited by Pencil Pusher (edited 07-15-2001).]

All, thanks again for the beta. I had to beg a couple of buddies into going along with me and Rob. The weather predictions weren't good, but we decided to go for it anyway. We got to the Killen Creek TH at 9ish-pm Friday night. After a bit of hiking in the dark, we reached the base camp area at 6800 feet. Great place to bivy. Next morning we got up and left at 5:40. At the lake and start of the glacier we roped up and started heading for Adams Glacier. Negotiating crevasses and the schrund weren't too obvious until you were right there. But it was fairly easy going with us relatively easily getting to the base of the route. We did note some somewhat fresh looking tracks coming up(down?) to/from the Divide Camp Trail area. I wonder if some other folks had just gone up there? Anyhow, we were a party of four with an 8.8 rope, eight screws and six pickets. Our plan was to move until we thought it appropriate to chop the rope and go in teams of two, we each had a mtn axe and ice tool. Bob thought we wouldn't place a single screw. I am happy we had all of the equipment we brought. As it was, the route was quite a bit of water ice with crappy snow covering. On running belay we went up using all screws and pickets in the first thousand feet. Changing leads, I was dead-beat tired(we kept moving as a team of four), we kept on up some water ice, (read hard and fatiguing for us Seattle folks). Thankfully the slope eased up to where we could unrope around 11000. Around there is some running water, silty(yech!) but better than nothing. Reaching the false summit, we roped up again and headed on over to the actual summit. Bob punched through to his thighs on one crevasse coming down from the false summit, totally not obvious as I obliviously lead past it (they put the slow man in front). I swapped out lead with the second and punched through a crevasse but used my forward momentum to do a slow belly flop and a "Shit!". I didn't bother to stop and see how deep it was, the two behind me said the hole was big and deep. FYI for all others, that was right near a wand with yellow tape on it. Further slogging brought us to the summit. Got a good photo of a big dog on top. The mountain must've been warning us with the noxious sulfur emissions as we headed for our descent of the north ridge. I got nicked and bruised more on that stupid ridge than on the whole ascent. Not only does it suck, it makes any climb anywhere near it dangerous as hell. Loose rock is all over the damn place and any route near there would pose a major rock hazard. As it was on our route, I saw two rocks go whizzing by on the first part, while we were on the schrund, and heard one while on route only to see it go whizzing by, a few feet away and hauling ass. We all said we thought it was an aircraft with that first, initial sound. Anyhow, I think folks could continue to do this route without schrund or crevasse problems for another month, probably longer. There is considerable water ice on route and the snow quality made for some iffy picket placements in places. I can't imagine it getting any better so screws are the way to go, unless you're good enough to go without them. Another thing, what's up with all the permits? Parking, wilderness use, volcano pass... a tourist would have to jump through bells and whistles while visiting. Leave it to the Seattle folks like me to bitch and whine about it. All in all, a great route with some good guys. The weather was maginificent with no clouds until ascent day and then only in the distance. Not much wind and nothing but sunshine the whole day. Another thing, it took us 10:20 from camp to summit. No speed record for sure.

Yeah Pencil Pusher, I did this route this weekend. What an awesome climb.

Great Mike. How many drinks did you have before you thought it'd be funny to do this post?

Adams, NFNWR, where our crampons will pulverize the pathetic crystals beneath.

If this was the sunshine state, I wouldn't complain about folks not wanting to climb given the forecast for this weekend. But we don't so my turn at spray. What gives? People around here afraid of climbing/hiking in the dark? Do we just bring our headlamps to watch food cook? A little cloudy weather gonna turn you around? I'm no gung-ho dude by any means, I just wanna hear some opinions short of some long lecture on the dangers.

The fear, the horror!! We may be just one Forbidden Peak between us! (I have no clue at this point if we're headed up Adams or Forbidden) Glad to see somebody's dropped you a line. I'll try not to drop any gear if you're below. Well, I sure won't drop any "gear". -Gary

I'm scared of Caveman. I fear if I ever meet him on the outside, he'll pick me up like a ragdoll and toss me around, the big lughead he is. I'm also fearfull of climbing which is why I read all the trip reports out of my monthly Mountaineers magazine and modify them so I can post a climb I just "did" on this site. What I'm looking for is an internet-chick that digs my style. I fear someone will find out what my identity really is. I fear I am the only one to have a picture of Ronald Reagan smiling, framed in his house. I fear I will not be accepted by all these hardcore climbers on this site. This one really chokes me up all day, makes me wanna cry. But now that I've found you, Wil Carter, you're my diamond sparkling in the sunshine.