specialed

Also, check out the Kahiltna Queen at the end of the SW Fork. No beta, but you can climb it.

Damn those pictures look eerily familiar. Hmmm... Oh yeah, they look like every bouldering picure I've ever seen. What a strange coincidence! Furthermore, I was rather dismayed that not one of the boulder "send-meisters" was sporting the new Eldo Rifle Hoody. Its great for hanging out by your new proj, and even comes equipt with a super secret stash pocket. But how you going to send if your loached out of your gourd?!! Who knows... these crazy kids today.

"When Balbaugh confronted him, Glanton beat him to death with a cast-iron pot lid." Ouch.

Ha! Whatever. Like you would have even known it was there without Colin and Dave going in there and climbing something first and reporting the approach notes and that it wasn't that hard. That's definitly the truth. Colin gave me all the beta for the approach and descent. We wouldn't have even known about the face if Colin and Dave hadn't "discovered" it and posted a TR and pics. But thats the way it goes. Thanks kids.

Climb: Summit Chief-Alpine Chicken Date of Climb: 4/24/2004 Trip Report: Rolf Larson, of Leavenworth, and I climbed a line to the lookers left of Colin and Dave's route on the North Face of Summit Chief on Saturday. Our trip started ominously enough Friday hiking through rain and clouds. Though we got soaking wet, Rolf made it all OK by packing in a full Rotisserie chicken for that evenings dinner. By the time we made it to the drainage out of the West Fork, it had started to clear and we could begin to make out the bad ass peaks in the area. In scoping our route that evening we noticed that the line is blocked by a steep and relatively ice-less headwall 3/4 of the way through, and the line ends on the West Ridge, not the summit. But it looked so cool, we decided to give it a try anyway. We enjoyed a decent bivy under a big rock in the Summit Chief basin and a hearty meal of alpine chicken and soup. After an alpine start Saturday we soloed up a half pitch, found some screws for a belay and begin to real climb. Five pitches of challenging climbing and marginal pro, constantly getting bombarded by spinfdriff, saw us to the first snowfield and away from the constant pissing from above. It was full on. Rolf called it "genuine toughguy climbing." We were a pitch below the blank wall. It looked a lot steeper and thinner than the rest of the climbing. Plagued by a overpowering moment of doubt, we decided to traverse right and into the adjacent system. A traverse pitch, and a couple more rope-stretching bold leads saw us to the ridge. From there we traversed right andback left up a less-steep but rocky west facing colior and to a rock belay. Two more short pitches, including a very bold lead by Rolf up an exposed and EXTREMELY chossy, run-out arete (in which Rolf put his crampons on on lead) with an exit move onto snow got us back onto our original line on the North Face. One more snow and ice pitch, with some simul-ing, got us back onto the ridge. From there, the ridge to the summit was blocked by more steep rock pyramids. Due to the this and the fact that it was already late in the afternoon, we decided to bail, a few hundred feet from the summit. We made one 30m rap down to a snow field on the south side, downclimbed another 30m, then managed to traverse over to Colin and Dave's second rap anchor and a rappel down a running waterfall to the descent coliour. Soon we were back at the bivy ravaging the carcass of the alpine chicken, and looking forward to a long night busting back to the truck. In all, a 19 hr. day. The climbing we did could probably be characterized as AI4+, 5.8 R. We named the route "Alpine Chicken," though neither of us were satisfied with the circuitous nature of the upper pitches and that we didn't tag the summit. The route could definitly be improved. Our line using Dave's photo (thanks Dave): Gear Notes: Handful of cams, some nuts, blades and LA's, 5-6 screws of various lengths including stubbies. The rock on the climb is shit and we spent a lot of time scraping off snow and ice looking for decent placements. Every now and then good ice and a good screw.

Because you are.

Climbing is dangerous. If you don't want to be around danger, don't climb. Stay at home play Nintendo. 64.

Maybe you should have asked him for a pad for your vag.

Ignorance is bliss, monkeyboy.

If you've seen one, you've seen 'em all.

All the crags where I was were mountie-less.

I just bought a case for $10.99 at Rite-Aid. Its the best beer in America. It won a blue ribbon. That's what a blue ribbon means.

I miss my ex too. But my aim is getting better.

Butter.

Even if you gotta carry da shizzle??? Carry it off the plane onto the glacier. For actual on-routes, its all about pizza in a cup. Instant soup with cheese and horsecock. Eat GU and snickers all day. Then before bivy or rest, east pizza in a cup to recover.

PANCAKES SO GOOD!!!! STEAK, BURGERS, BACON, SMOKES SALMON FUCK DEHYDRATED BULLSHIT LOTS OF BOOZE LIVE IT UP ON THE GLACIER

Werd. I'll join the party .

...and? need another, or you got even numbers already. PMs not operational!!!

Can leave around noon-ish. I can drive, you can buy the beer. Or vise-versa. Anyone? Buehler?

Done it. Killer 8-9 pitch. AI 4+ / 5. Fun day climb from Kahiltna.

I like having a fat 10.2 for cragging and aid. Then a skinnier one or doubles for the mountains.

Is Britney Spears performing in Vancouver tonight? Or maybe its dollar Molson night at the Canucks game?

The original idea of guiding is cool. Locals showing non-locals the rad spots. Unfortunately now its all commercialized bullshit. I have issues with anyone making money off the mountains because the outdoor industry has propogated this idea that being a climber or climbing some shitheap is cool. And people are willing to pay to be cool. MOST guides have inflated egos and assume that they know more about climbing than non-guides. And that shiz is old. Nevertheless, guides and clients tend to do routes that I don't, so I don't give all that much of a shit.

Hustler mag's don't count bro.