slaphappy

Jack Tackle puts up plenty of beginner lines doesn't he?

Dru do you have a thing for young Japaneese chicks? Isn't "Sexual Chocolate" the name of a band in an older Eddie Murphy movie? Oh and this topic sucks!

Once again Pope, you're a hypocrite!!! (did I get it right that time?)

Cavey check your personal messages!

You seem to know more than the people that were there, indulge us. I give up!

rumors?

Notice the quotation marks, I did not say it, your buds did.

Again Cavey, ease up, I'm not refering to your comments. Go back and reread some of the crap on alpenlite.com.

My info was all first hand, cause I was there. The comments about "Wallstein" were not in reference to your spray, but your buds comments about "somebody adding bolts to my friends (wallsteins) project". I'm not trying to start something just clarify what went on up there. And yeah, reread Erik's initial comments, it does raise the hair on my neck a bit.

Sorry Cavey! Wrong guy! I don't live in Heavenworth, but I do have plenty of time. I have no intrest in "fighting fire with fire" I was explaining why some people might feel a bit put out. The only reason you aren't part of our "in" crowd is I have never met you. I don't see my statements as "harsh", just to the point. [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 10-02-2001).]

Erik you are blowing steam about something you know nothing about! I was up there and spoke to your "bros" first and last. All discussions we had were pleasant, although they were a bit stand-off-ish. We shared info and stated it was nice to meet them. I heard no threats! Why would you be threatened? None of us knows who you are or cares. The only mention of "Wallstein" was in reference to a climb he was trying to TR, that has since had two bolts added to it and been redpointed. They brought it up and I answered their questions. (If he thinks he was the first to work on that route, he is mistaken. How did he think it got so clean? I'm confident he didn't clean it!) Peter Puget makes a good point. With how people on this sight reference other climbers/route establishers what do you expect? Can you blame us for being a bit put out? The guy who told you guys about the crag feels cheated. He told you all as friends/fellow climbers and was then slandered on the computer. You don't hear us chestbeating about "ground up ascents to chain anchors". (first ascents to chain anchors? are you guys serious?) Do you think we slammed in anchors and didn't bother to enjoy the perfect cracks below them? Many of the cracks were done ground up then retro cleaned so others (like you) could enjoy them, did you guys bother doing that with your few efforts? You sure seemed to enjoy the ones we worked on. Go back and read all the comments "your bros" have made about the folks responsible for the efforts at The Pearly Gates. (Make sure you check out alpenlite.com also.) How do you think the footpath you followed got there? Perhaps by many trips up and down that slope by a group of adventurous and dedicated climbers. That crag has never been a secret. You can see it from the road and, as you said, it's a 20 minute approach. We just took the initiative to actually check it out. Before you start a thread and further slander superb climbers that have done more than you can even dream about, sit back and reconsider your position. These folks you call "jokes" have done more for the development of climbing (both at the crags and in the mountains)in this state than you and all "your bros" combined can ever think of achieving. You quite likely have learned to climb on some of the routes they pioneered! I have no idea where your attitude comes from but lose it! Oh yeah! As everyone has stated already The Pearly Gates rock! Go check it out and enjoy it as we have. [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 10-02-2001).]

Fuzzy Details? established line-Sudden Impact 5.11b Selkirks knifeblades protecting the crux extremely run-out (without fixed pro) "There are no tricky placements" Only question is, is the route worthwhile? Might consider what the 1st ascentionist has to say too!

Pope you are a hypocrite. Excuse me professor! [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 10-01-2001).]

Bolt it! Pitons are not that reliable as fixed freeclimbing protection. If there is no pro, add bolts. Replacing the knifeblades will only further damage the rock. (may have pro someday if they get beaten in and out numerous times) Minimize it now and add adequate protection. [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 09-30-2001).]

I wasn't aware that lack of booty was a legitimate excuse for pulling bolted anchors.

Remove the protection bolt if you must but leave the goddamn anchors!!!! Why remove bolted anchors? Is that chicken shit too? Slings suck, they look like trash all over the cliff, at least bolted anchors with chains aren't a fuckin eyesore. Anchors are the core of the system, and if someone took the time and effort to put them there, leave them! I doubt it will detract from your climbing experience. (and yes, I'm completely capable of constructing my own equalized anchor system) Mitch, you are not the ethics police! Get off your fuckin high horse. You make me sick!

Just like you have always done, right Pope?

I'm also a single sock wearer and only wear Smartwool socks. They are the best. Dru, to answer your question with my findings and opinion. I find wearing a liner works as you stated for a short while, until the outer sock begins to bunch the inner sock creating small ribs or folds that soon turn into hotspots and later blisters. I have never found a liner sock to successfully stay put.

Me too!

I know too!

Ingraham Direct?!? This time of year?

The road was infact still closed 9-8 and I still saw smoke high above it on 9-7. Still flying choppers around regularly too.

I'm finding all the waiting around for "mountaineers" stuff kinda funny. When my comfort level wasn't near what it is now, I was frequently passed. I always watched with envy hoping I would someday be that proficient. I never even considered refusing passage to a faster party! Why should they wait while my bumbly ass figures out what to do or flails around like an idiot? I always thought that was the correct etiquette. Since my speed and abilities have increased, I have noticed myself being caught behind slower parties, and until recently have never been refused passage, on the contrary have been met with smiles and kind words. I was stunned when on a recent trip this occurred. I waited over an hour and a half and finally said fuck him and climbed around/over the prick. They bailed shortly after. The mountain wasn't his or mine and I don't feel anyone has the right to make you wait unreasonable amounts of time for any reason, especially when they are "teaching" rappeling or belaying, that should be done at the crags. If they want to descend in the dark that's fine but no one else should be forced to do the same. I have been caught for a few short spells behind Mountaineers or other similar organizations and I found that if you keep moving by without asking for permission they usually step out of the way without confrontation. (Of course keeping safety in mind!) If descending, look for an alternate "loose block" or "sketchy tree" to rap off of, there are usually other options on routes of that grade. If I am wrong and it is customary to wait ridiculous amounts of time while peolple learn how to climb, I apologize to those I have passed.

I gave it a go with a friend in the middle of October '98. The gate was shut so we hiked in a few miles in a drizzle. By the time we hit the base it was wet snow. I believe it was the first snow of the year, because underneath the ever-deepening fresh layer was good ice, until the very top. We spent the day simul-soloing until just above the hanging glacier where you cross the final crack/crevasse. Here the angle increases to 45 or 50 degrees and it was no longer holding the new fallen snow. I continued up on lousy placements. There was a thin eggshell layer of ice, probably from a recent rain, covering snow the consistency of sugar. About 150-200 feet from the col. I turned around only to see my partner staring up at me with a blank stare refusing to go any farther due to sketchy conditions. It was late and I conceded. I downclimbed to him, where the snow had been accumulating from the increasing spindrift. From here we glissaded/rode the snow, except for one short section that we downcilmbed, in questionable control until we were near the base of the couloir. Here the accumulation was insufficient for glissading and we downclimbed the remainder. (Although I was called a liar by a frequent CC.com user in an old post about the glissading thing, my fond memory and my partners testimony stand as proof enough for me.) Would I reccommend it? I don't think so. Routefinding is certainly straightforward, although I would recommend staying to the left for obvious reasons. It isn't really steep enough most of the way to make it exciting and it was an awful lot of work getting there and getting out of there. Although we had no incidents with falling debris (pretty cold), the threat was everpresent. Had there not been a small amount of new snow (up to 6-8 inches) the descent would have been far more problematic. We had a 60mx9mm and screws for v-threads, or would have used bollards. Downclimbing the whole thing may have been the best choice. Had there been a lot of snow it would have been suicidal. I'm surprised your considering it having been down it once! I doubt I would repeat it, although those last few hundred feet irritate me. If you want any other info, ask. [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 09-06-2001).] [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 09-06-2001).]

Was in Boston Basin Fri.-Mon. Nothing but rain fell during that time. (and plenty of it!)