slaphappy

Ingraham Direct?!? This time of year?

The road was infact still closed 9-8 and I still saw smoke high above it on 9-7. Still flying choppers around regularly too.

I'm finding all the waiting around for "mountaineers" stuff kinda funny. When my comfort level wasn't near what it is now, I was frequently passed. I always watched with envy hoping I would someday be that proficient. I never even considered refusing passage to a faster party! Why should they wait while my bumbly ass figures out what to do or flails around like an idiot? I always thought that was the correct etiquette. Since my speed and abilities have increased, I have noticed myself being caught behind slower parties, and until recently have never been refused passage, on the contrary have been met with smiles and kind words. I was stunned when on a recent trip this occurred. I waited over an hour and a half and finally said fuck him and climbed around/over the prick. They bailed shortly after. The mountain wasn't his or mine and I don't feel anyone has the right to make you wait unreasonable amounts of time for any reason, especially when they are "teaching" rappeling or belaying, that should be done at the crags. If they want to descend in the dark that's fine but no one else should be forced to do the same. I have been caught for a few short spells behind Mountaineers or other similar organizations and I found that if you keep moving by without asking for permission they usually step out of the way without confrontation. (Of course keeping safety in mind!) If descending, look for an alternate "loose block" or "sketchy tree" to rap off of, there are usually other options on routes of that grade. If I am wrong and it is customary to wait ridiculous amounts of time while peolple learn how to climb, I apologize to those I have passed.

I gave it a go with a friend in the middle of October '98. The gate was shut so we hiked in a few miles in a drizzle. By the time we hit the base it was wet snow. I believe it was the first snow of the year, because underneath the ever-deepening fresh layer was good ice, until the very top. We spent the day simul-soloing until just above the hanging glacier where you cross the final crack/crevasse. Here the angle increases to 45 or 50 degrees and it was no longer holding the new fallen snow. I continued up on lousy placements. There was a thin eggshell layer of ice, probably from a recent rain, covering snow the consistency of sugar. About 150-200 feet from the col. I turned around only to see my partner staring up at me with a blank stare refusing to go any farther due to sketchy conditions. It was late and I conceded. I downclimbed to him, where the snow had been accumulating from the increasing spindrift. From here we glissaded/rode the snow, except for one short section that we downcilmbed, in questionable control until we were near the base of the couloir. Here the accumulation was insufficient for glissading and we downclimbed the remainder. (Although I was called a liar by a frequent CC.com user in an old post about the glissading thing, my fond memory and my partners testimony stand as proof enough for me.) Would I reccommend it? I don't think so. Routefinding is certainly straightforward, although I would recommend staying to the left for obvious reasons. It isn't really steep enough most of the way to make it exciting and it was an awful lot of work getting there and getting out of there. Although we had no incidents with falling debris (pretty cold), the threat was everpresent. Had there not been a small amount of new snow (up to 6-8 inches) the descent would have been far more problematic. We had a 60mx9mm and screws for v-threads, or would have used bollards. Downclimbing the whole thing may have been the best choice. Had there been a lot of snow it would have been suicidal. I'm surprised your considering it having been down it once! I doubt I would repeat it, although those last few hundred feet irritate me. If you want any other info, ask. [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 09-06-2001).] [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 09-06-2001).]

Was in Boston Basin Fri.-Mon. Nothing but rain fell during that time. (and plenty of it!)

My apologies Luckster, of course you do!

Yeh, Lucky don't you drive a black truck and where you been getting all the new "equipment"? Hmmmmm.

I climbed the East Ridge Direct this past Sunday with my lady and a party summited via the West Ridge. I spoke with them briefly and am unaware of their abilities, but they belayed 2 pitches of neve/ice in the coulior and I saw them rappel back down. It has a large crack/crevasse approximately midway. They apprached the glacier from the right and then traversed left across slabs, and then straight up to the base of the coulior. If your comfortable with the grade I would recommend the East Ridge, the approach is way more straightforward this late in the season. You may save enough time there to make up for the more technical rock climbing. However, we did not do it car to car, we had other goals that got rained out. As long as you don't have the same slow ass party that was in front of us, it should not be a problem. (I eventually climbed over them exchanging some unpleasantries, they refused passage! They added hours on to our time, and they bailed shortly afterward. There are very few places to pass a party that is uncooperative! Guess that's what I get on a holiday weekend.)

Gothic Basin with Gothic Peak and Del Campo close by.

Did the route this past Mon. with a bud. Here's my take... Approach- short but grueling, some steep annoying gravel. 4 hours to Col. Bivy- excellent;snow patch for water Route- about 6 pitches (depending on comfort level) with some easy scrambling. Rock quality was disappointing for a "classic". Beware of other party inflicted rock fall. A few moves of 5.8 on pitch 4ish, mostly 5.6. If in doubt, head right! Last 2 pitches better rock quality, lots of 5.7. 3 1/2 hours to summit. Descent- We used double 9's, could have used a single rope. Beware of "rope eating flakes"! 1/2 hour to base. Back to car in 2 hours, same annoying gravel. All in all a good outing. Have fun!

David clearly you need to get out more. There are advantages to sleeping in your vehicle. First and foremost the stealth factor. Most trailheads forbid camping in the lot, usually if your in your vehicle you will not get hastled. Alpine starts require having your pack prepacked and ready to grab and go. Extra time spent repacking your bag and bivy, usually carried in the middle to bottom of your pack, means less valuable rest. Returning to your vehicle/bed wasted in the wee hours (quite possibly only to get up and leave again) means no hastle rest. In foul weather you don't always pussy out and run home! You waite it out or deal with it. If you don't your success rate decreases dramaticly. This said I still vote for the 4- runner. Hint: crack the window it won't fog up so bad, dahhh.

Toyota 4 runner. Can sleep in the back,(unless exceptionally tall) has 4 wheel drive and high clearance. Way more reliable than most anything else. Can squash hoards of Subarus at trail heads! Only drawback is the gas mileage. [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 08-21-2001).]

I stand corrected. Before I speculate further I would need to refresh my memory on the "crack" in question. I am not OKing the bolting of a significant crack. My only goal is to stop the destruction of "the aesthetic at the time of the first ascent". Many peoples opinions differ and the "firsts" in this case clearly saw it otherwise.

I think the rest of the smashed hangers should be removed and all the bolts should be replaced in their original holes or as close as possible. This is the way the original first ascent was done. Mitch, certainly don't want to discredit your accomplishments, but I heard your gear was placed on rappel.(?) If this is true, it should make a difference to the safety and feasability of a gear lead. Why didn't you do it first? As far as a TR goes, this could be OK, but what about the impact to the plant life on the top of the mesa? Isn't more foot-traffic up there one of the things we're trying to avoid? Unlike Red M&M's, There isn't a solid (significantly easier) classic sharing the same anchors. [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 08-21-2001).]

A few other suggestions if you don't want to spend $ on an overpriced duffle. Box it, no one will know what the hell is in a random brown cardboard box, plus you can take the time to pack your gear so it is protected. At least use one of those fancy airline supplied heavy plastic bags. You can slide your whole pack in it, protecting it from idiot handlers. Ive done both and either work well. As pointed, don't bring fuel, but if asked about a stove, lie, they just want to see if you might have fuel.(in the stove) I've lied and they don't press the point to hard. [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 08-20-2001).]

Excellent TR!! A fine effort!

What the?!?

I was cilmbing with a few friends near Castle Rock and watched a nasty lightening storm plow through the area late sunday afternoon. Noticed shortly afterward a nice sized plume of smoke rising from the top of icicle ridge just west of town. Seemed to grow pretty quick. The wind was present but moderate. Sure wasn't enough rain to help out. Any locals please keep us informed!

NNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!

I apoligize for the gender error, Mr. river. You were correct in your assumption, my mistake, I was caught up in the moment... enjoy those crags! [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 08-10-2001).]

Nicest post I've ever seen from you Pope, although there is still somehow a slimy undertone. Did you find a new spot in the Icicle perhaps??

Reread my post Miss/Mrs. River. Keeping it "nice" is not entirely what I'm after. I would prefer the "not so nice" stay in the computer and not at the crags!

Truly insecure people would sit back with a dumb blank stare and shake there head with the masses.

Why is it that any one with a different opinion about anything is automaticly a sport climber?

First and foremost I agree with Matt and Peter. I have been lurking and posting on this site for quite awhile and have noticed a number of disturbing realities. The general negative overtone has increased, the threats and aggresiveness have moved from the keyboard and screen to the outdoors, and on a positive note, the amount of "useful" info has also increased with the popularity. The most disturbing to me is the reality of the threats, both to our crags and other individuals. A small group gets them selves all worked up, see they have some support and become the self-appointed ethics police. This "support" is also something I question, multiple posts by the same individuals and newbies taint the legitimacy of the support. I realize everyone has the right to their opinion, but I have seen posters request help on purchasing their first pair of climbing shoes one week, and the following, claim that bolts on particular routes (clearly too difficult for their abilities) are too close or unneccesary. I do not feel everyone has the qualifications to make these sort of rash claims, particularly new climbers or non climbers. This only becomes a problem when a group decides to take action based on these opinions, which is now happening. (I do know that there are also people posting who are legitimate hard asses, my helmet's off to you!) I have made an effort to stick up for what I believe is right or wrong, without being aggresively confrontational, which rarely coincides with the majority of posters on that particular thread. I've been threatened and ridiculed for my opinion. I have concidered stepping out from my anonymity (I agree that it effects the impact of the opinion) but what reassurance do I have that the threats won't be carried out? On the contrary I see just the opposite. Hence the reason I hesitate to show up at any gatherings. Many times I've read "if you knew me/him you'd realize he's a great guy". Actions speak for themselves, how many times does a "great guy" get to screw up before he's not that great anymore? I climb regularly with a very diversified crowd and know no one who supports the actions of a few "chestbeaters" that frequent this site. Why do they not post? It's easier not to, they don't want to get mixed up in the bullshit. Maybe they are smarter than myself for not facing the negativity. By no means do I consider constructive argumentation negative, on the contrary it is quite possitive and I rather enjoy it. * and yes Peter there are many good climbs out there that are not publicly disclosed. On this website, if they get posted, the "poster" is portrayed as an egotistical sprayer or an overbolter. It's a shame.