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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. Ok have been planiing this trip and you partner bails. I have had amazing success with my soloist. Some of my greatest climbs have been alone. The whole atmosphere changes. Focus is everything. Alan Watts told me "If you can tope rope it you can lead it". I will take it one further. If you can lead it you can solo it. Of course you must practice, so many things can go wrong soloing and they have . I am a better climber because I have ventured with no saftey net. It is not for eveyone, but the people with resolve and a true passion for thier discipline will rise above themselves and conquer the greatest climb of all : Fear
  2. wayne

    rain

    I too will choose to take a moment and wallow in this pit of rain induced mud. In my case it was snow, and It felt like winter on the Ptarmigan. Thank God for Leavenworth though
  3. wayne

    Contest Time

    So far Dennis wins a dinner with ...himself.Spray on DH!
  4. THE latest on Boston Basin..... The approach trail is wiped out by massive avvies. Probably wont be crowded The approach is now a 5-7 hour ordeal!!
  5. Where is Alasdair on this thread . I will weigh in on this . Doug is my man ! He put me and my team up in his house though we did not fly in with him..... He will fly your ass in or out when NO OTHER TAXI will. He is a brilliant musician who created an amazing memorial song to Mugs. He is a business man struggling agaianst the Princess cruis monsters sending the little guy down the scuba /sewer slide. I will only give my $ to the local guy and he is about the only one left there
  6. Stefan ,Great idea Is this the same cynical Dennis Harmon that I did Eldorado west ridge with? there could be a 2nd DH in Wenatchee?
  7. Yo Klenke, you remind me of me before I had done many trips here. Are you serious about wanting to do all those peaks??? One trip?? I find it better to plan on 1 mt. The pack is so light you usually get up someting
  8. David thanks for gettin on the page with those photogs.,and for watching for the descent route before we topped out......KEY MOVE...... and for a great trip
  9. wayne

    Bonanza Peak

    I have gone after the Soviet route . I dont think it will ever be repeated. The"rock"on Bonanza is terrible. It may be the only peak that Fred hasnt climbed
  10. Ya it was hot and scary on the west ridge of Hunter. when we got back to Talkeetna it was 88 degrees! I guess we got to go earlier? April/ March?
  11. P. M. me if you have one for sale. Wayne
  12. Yea I saw them cleaning one of them up. It was below the east face of Lib Bell . . It was down to one lane and it brought rocks down with it , big ones too. Just a heads up out there: There were lots of cornice collapse and avvies everywhere in the high country . Gravity flexing [ 05-27-2002, 08:23 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]
  13. My personal favorites are any of the ice season mixed routes on Illumination Rock. There is a topo of them in Climaxe currentlyIf it cooled down , the Reid side of it would be sweet
  14. Someone tell Jennie hi for me ,please
  15. Thanks and I am out of here!!!!!!
  16. You didnt arrange the boat? Oh my god what a megathon! Day 8: Puddle of goo.
  17. I have considered Crosson as a way to poach Foraker. Has anyone been able to do peaks like this without a permit? What is the penalty?
  18. Just do everybody a favor an go over the top of Whatcom Peak, bag 2 classics and figure out imperfect on the way back!
  19. Headed up to Alaska to join the 20 parties on the West Ridge of Hunter, and I am wanting info on good plan B's in the area . Anybody know anything about the Kahiltna Peaks or things within the base camp area that doesnt require permits or Twight-like commitment? [ 05-07-2002, 04:10 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]
  20. Can we all just get a life?
  21. East as in Index East? TimL That sucks about your wing. Put in your downtime and wait till that week we call Summer. [ 05-06-2002, 05:26 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]
  22. Thielsen is great anytime! The rock on the standard rt and the west ridge is actually very good. The only issue is do you want the bad scree to be covered with snow? If you want a big time alpine route try the McGloughlin Memorial route ,it is like something in the North Cascades with bad rock at times.14+ pitches with routefinding issues too. While we are on the subject has anyone else out there done the McGloughlin Memorial?
  23. I have a buddy who is a very serious snow mo dude and he is as proud of his ascent of st.Hels as we are of our our most proud climbs. I dont agree that it should be allowed at all! but there is always another perspective opposite of any given veiw Should I tell him he sucks? he is twice my weight
  24. Elysian . IceGirl has spoken.
  25. hey TimL was just talking aboot slabs when we saw you In Cananda. My epeltives are that slabs require too much nerve,trust,and patience to be popular with peops that want everything now!
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