RICHARD_CILLEY

Its True.What do u expect from the French.Fucking up the rock is what they most like to do.

I´ll be in Seattle from the 14th of Sept to the end of Oct. I´m looking for partners for 5.11 and up.Give me a call.425 747 2998

Si

And Greg is not skinney at all.

Look up an old friend of mine Brian Virgin in Oslo .He should have the scoop

Greg definatly had a different mindset.We are talking about a guy that also onsight soloed the lost arrow chimney.Its only 10a but harder than astroman.Greg was one of my best friends and climbing partner in the 70s and 80s.

Ya as everyone knows .It was onsight soloed25 years ago

Le Belvedere inArgentiere

What? the earth swallow him up or something?

Anyone know what happened to my climbing partner from the 70s,early 80s, Jim Gibson.He was from Tacoma.Went to the UW. Good climber,great partier.

Nicht schlecht.

What? U guys use gear on that?

If u want to triumph at Index,go learn to climb cracks in Leavenworth

Check out Traffic.The first route done at exit 38.Its an overhangig Ithink wide crackon the sidewall of the quarry on the N. side of the highway. 5.11

Its too bad Wa. doesnt have any hard wide stuff.But if u come to Madrid ,I´ll show u some testpieces and buy the beer.

I wish I would have dropped out of school and moved to Yos.

I found a good roof crack across theIcicle creek road from Bridge creek campground.Its alittle down and right from the new crag in the Kramar GUIDE. iTS WORTHY.The best boulder cracksfrom fingers to OW,slabs to roof are in Madrid.

If its a 9 I´ll buy it.

Carnage is not a boulder problem.I´ts a chipped abortion.

Thats it.The seam is the dihedral visible on the left wall.

Its still apretty big deal to flash areal .12.The magazines make it sound like nothing but the reality is another thing.If anyone wants to argue the point,Ill donate my time to belay them on a variety of .12s.I dont think there will be a line . Feelin lucky?I think the ratings at Index are fine.They demand a bit of respect.U dont have that empty feeling U get when u climb routes that are overrated.Not sure,but I think at Peshastin there is a climb called Skyline arete.It used to be rated 4th class.It was horrendous.

Dont know if anyone else has done the Gutbuster.If someone has,they can say so here.Havent done Doin Dishes in Decades.Holds get smaller,but shoes get better.I think the same weekend I did the Gutbuster I did the lieback seam at the original Zekes Boulder.When I've shown it to kids who rediscover the boulder it hadnt even occured to them.Someone should get on it.If people dont spread out and try different climbs we lose them to the vegetation. On that note, I toproped Giant size Baby Thing off the Sloe Children anchors the other day.Excellent and hard.More like 11d.

..At your request.In the prehistory of Hueco,Sherman and I were there alone a week.On the 7th day some El Paso locals came out.They showed us 1 of their proj.After watching the crew flail awhile,I jumped on.I pulled the key hold to pec level while sucking my hips into the wall.As my fingers touched the finishing jug,I explained to the crowd that all u have to do is suck in.At that instant the hold broke sendig spotters running and me onto my back amongst the boulders.For me it will always be the Turtleback problem because its shaped like the inside of a turtleshell.

Anyone want to meet me there?

I think thats what the 9 is called. Its to the right.