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Peter_Puget

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Everything posted by Peter_Puget

  1. Of course here I am not referring to recreational eating!
  2. No wait I also heard about people eating people in North Korea! You know the place that had 2 million of its citizens starve to death during the 90s. Thank goodness the UN has been involved there too.
  3. Wait haven't I heard something like this before: Why yes I have - In state sponsered papers throughout the Middle East! Plainly and repeatedly those intrepid journalalist have reported the use of the blood of Arab babies in Jewish religious ceremonies! Maybe that's why the UN is involved in the Middle East a swell.
  4. We think its a joke but we hear of it only because its people eating people and the UN sends a team out. That's truly a pathetic joke.
  5. What's weird is that if they were just shot and left to rot we would think nothing of it.
  6. The world is truly a sad place
  7. Will anyone still be around after the Vertical World closes?
  8. Heck Scott I should buy you a beer at the next Pub Club! And if Alpinek lights up we'll gang up on him.
  9. After the hype-fest last fall I went out and climbed this route by approaching the wrong way hopefully the new guide shows the better way. My verdict: it was ok. I was expecting an over-the-top bolt mess but it wasn't so bad. Certainly some of the bolts could have been omitted but so could some of the bolts on most bolted routes. If I hadn't read critical comments about the number of bolts I wouldn't have even thought about the issue. The climbing is mostly on medium-to-large edges with a hint of friction thrown in at the crux. The hold that Smoot refers to as "possibly chipped" was certainly beat on with a hammer. The odd thing is that the route is only a bit harder when it is avoided all together, so maybe the rock was a bit decomposed there. The gun fire seems no worse the day I was there than at Index and the route is much further away from the highway than the Fun Forest. The leader can see the belayer form the top by leaning out. The sunny exposure and fun well protected climbing will make this route popular - I bet it would be fun today. To say it is the best, or even one of the best, slab pitches in Washington is an exaggeration. This claim might backfire by creating unreasonable expectations. Go to the site Northbendclimbing.com and check it out. Seems that there is a new 5.8 route nearby. I honestly don't even remember what the rock in that area looks like but if you are looking for a moderate face routes to do close to Seattle I can't think of any better ones that are easily accessible.
  10. Keep writing! I even started a stupid article for this site who knows if I will even finish it. Why aren't we all at the rocks today!
  11. Redeem yourself and write a TR so that I can live vicariously through you. For instance what did you do at Index yesterday? Tell us more about the Rockies! Zion! Write man! Write! Eagerly waiting to read, Peter
  12. No DFA not bold; just gave into peer pressure. The three words more frightening/dangerous than "I love you" are "Go for it" PP
  13. Thanks DFA. I am quite familiar with one of the potential whippers on that route although time has fogged my memory somewhat. Old age has some advantages I guess. PP
  14. Thanks for the tips. I did get a offer for an old pair of RRs but they were too small and I am really looking looking for something that free climbs better. I would have gone for that pair at Sierratrading but they didnt have my size. Sinc ewi am not in a rush I think I will just wait hoping that this spring a new shoe will come on the market.
  15. Does Boy Prophet still have the original bolts? Do you still need gear at the top? America thanks you! PP
  16. Thanks. REI doesn't carry them online. EDIT: I bought my last pair there back in the '70s!
  17. When and what store PP?
  18. Peter_Puget

    The Dubya

    Hey all PP asked an important question in a thread titled "SMC" go check it out!
  19. Your grooviness continues to inspire me DFA! Thanks! Next question: anyone know who sells their crampon?
  20. What ever happened to this company?
  21. Good point Trask. Why just today I was wondering how much would be saved if biking was prohibited on public streets! Wouldn't be surprised if it was a net gain to the commonwealth. That is to say maybe those eco bikers are costing us more than if the started driving one of those evil gas guzzlers.
  22. Interesting Link
  23. Any good suggestions for a boot that can go between aid and free climbing fairly well?
  24. Web link High-Altitude Breathing May Be in One's Blood By Guy Gugliotta Washington Post Staff Writer Monday, December 23, 2002; Page A09 The mathematics are inescapable. The higher the altitude, the less oxygen the air will hold, and the more difficult it is to breathe. Either the body adapts, or the person dies. For decades scientists accepted an "Andean man" model for acclimatization: The body at altitude will grow a higher concentration of oxygen-absorbing red blood cells to mop up scarcer oxygen from rarified air. Add bigger lungs and deeper breathing, and equilibrium is reestablished. The result is a blocky fellow with a washtub chest, like the musicians who play the panpipes and wooden flutes of Andean mountain music. "Their lungs are 25 percent bigger than ours," said Case Western Reserve University anthropologist Cynthia Beall. "Andean highlanders are very distinctive." Earlier this month, however, Beall and five colleagues reported on another distinctive people -- a community of Ethiopians who live at 11,650 feet, and whose blood, by several common measures, is exactly the same as if they lived at sea level. "I'm flabbergasted; I don't see how they do it," said exercise physiologist David Martin of Georgia State University. "I'm left with a dozen questions. It's a fascinating kind of story." And it is not just a curiosity. For Martin, a consultant for USA Track & Field, and others like him, the extraordinary success of African distance runners -- principally Ethiopians and Kenyans -- has been a source of wonder ever since barefooted Abebe Bikila won the 1960 Olympic marathon. Is there a secret that others cannot possess? "Efforts to find a genetic explanation have been dismal failures," said Dallas cardiologist Ben Levine, an expert in exercise medicine. "My personal opinion is that these successes are cultural. A distance runner in Ethiopia or Kenya is a national hero." In an online article to be published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, Beall's team reported on 300 people living in the Semien Mountains about 300 miles north of Addis Ababa. Testing showed they had neither elevated red-cell concentrations nor low levels of oxygen saturation in their blood -- two key indicators of the Andean model. "We were stunned," Beall said. "The Ethiopians are finding the same amount of oxygen we find, even though the amount of oxygen in the air they breathe is two-thirds of what we have at sea level." Humans transport oxygen via hemoglobin, a protein in red blood cells that binds to oxygen molecules and moves them from the lungs to muscles and other tissues. At sea level, between 95 and 97 percent of the body's hemoglobin is saturated with oxygen during every breath. At altitude, reduced oxygen logically means lower oxygen saturation. In the Andes, highlanders compensate by producing more red cells to create a heightened "hemoglobin concentration" -- a higher proportion of red cells in the blood. That way the blood has more hemoglobin to sponge up scarce oxygen. Lowlanders need at least 10 days for this process to begin. In the meantime, however, they will acquire the other characteristic of high altitude survival -- deeper and more frequent breathing. The Andean barrel chest comes from being born and raised at altitude. Scholars were satisfied with this explanation until studies in Tibet in the 1970s showed that highlanders there had both low hemoglobin concentrations and low oxygen saturation levels. In theory, the Tibetans should have been oxygen-starved. "But they breathe faster, and there's also some evidence that they are better able to modulate blood flow," Beall said. "When they exercise, their blood flow increases more rapidly, so they may have a larger cardiac output. We don't really know." The Himalayan research triggered a debate over a possible evolutionary explanation for high altitude adaptation. The Andeans, whose lowland ancestors migrated from Asia perhaps 16,000 years ago, adjust to altitude essentially the same way as any lowlander would today -- and it is not a perfect solution. "Creating more red cells is a pathological response," said Temple University anthropologist Charles Weitz. "If you have too many red cells, the blood's too thick, and it's like pumping oil. Eventually you have to move downhill." Tibetans or their ancestors, however, have been in Asia for 1 million years or more -- time enough, some scholars theorize, to evolve a different approach. Exercise physiologists were moving along a different track. Realizing that ultra-high hemoglobin concentrations were no good for athletes -- syrupy blood doesn't flow well -- they still sought enhanced athletic endurance by increasing red cell counts, but only in the context of a larger overall blood volume. "Over time -- four weeks minimum, or many months -- you can elevate both red cells and volume, therefore keeping [sea level] hemoglobin concentrations," Levine said. Athletes with this training have hearts that "pump more blood." So why is it that the Andean nations -- except for Colombia's cyclists -- do not produce more such athletes? There is no scientific answer, but Georgia State's Martin suggests that many Andeans may "live too high -- 12,000, 13,000, 14,000 feet" -- so high that "the blood turns to sludge." Altitude training seeks to expand the competitor's blood volume using a combination of lowland workouts and highland living, varying the amounts of time in each milieu. Finding the optimum times and altitudes is a Holy Grail of athletic trainers. In Ethiopia, the two tracks may converge. Human ancestors first arose there and in Kenya as much as 4 million years ago. If Darwinian adaptation has played a role, there may be no likelier places. Ethiopia and Kenya are also countries where the runners come from high altitudes, but not too high: Ethiopia's Haile Gebrselassie, who holds the world's 10,000-meter record at 26 minutes, 22.75 seconds, lives at 7,900 feet in Addis Ababa, and trains in the surrounding hills. In the Semien mountains, Beall's team tested people of all ages, mostly herders with no particular athletic bent. Unlike the Andeans, their hemoglobin concentrations were the same as those of lowlanders. But unlike the Tibetans, they also had high, sea-level oxygen saturation levels. Beall does not know how this can be, but her team did not look at blood volume, which might at least explain the hemoglobin concentrations: "If Ethiopians have a bigger blood volume, they could do a better job of transporting oxygen," Martin said. "If an athlete in Ethiopia has this huge blood volume, he's going to have an enormous advantage at sea level."
  25. Erik And Peter went to the same school!
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