Peter_Puget

Ok I have been persuaded to admit to the rap bolting on PP. The bolt locations in some of these threads do not seem to be the route we climbed but anyway.... I wussed and checked it out on rappel. But after seeing the edges, which would have provided perfect A1 hooks, I figured why not make it a headpoint. (I may be misusing the term “headpoint” because we did not TR the pitch.) So out came the flintstone rig and in went the bolts. The route moves up across a face and up a rounded arete passing 2 bolts and a rivet that is almost invisible. This was placed on lead (hence the rivit) because as it turns out I didn’t have the head for the point - 11d 20+’ feet out. The entire pitch is 12b/c. I have no idea about the bolted rap route.

Redemption

Two Words: Catherine Breillat

...than an (ex)CBS news staffer.

Quckies could be the ticket! I used them quite a bit esp. the blue, red and black sizes..... But mostly the blue!

Ask for one here: Link

...John

Confirmation: French forces in Iraq.Finally!

Honestly CBS I think he is being a bit hard on you.

Any one ever see one of these? Aid Shoe?

Is that route on the left side of the Power House?

Thinking of changing by motto to not always conservative but always right!

The report by the CIA's Iraq Survey Group and the Senate testimony Wednesday by Charles A. Duelfer, head of the survey group, make claims that President Bush "misled" the public absurd. If the Report is correct, such charges assume that the American President knew more about the Iraq weapons programs than did the Iraqi President's closest aides. For example, the Los Angeles Times, reports: Shortly before the U.S. bombing and invasion of Iraq last year, Saddam Hussein gathered his top generals together to share what came to them as astonishing news: The weapons that the United States was launching a war to remove did not exist. "There was plenty of surprise when Saddam said, 'Sorry guys, we don't have any' " weapons of mass destruction to use against the invading forces, a senior U.S. intelligence official said. .... Far from being misinformed, the report says, Hussein was micromanaging Iraq's weapons policy himself and kept even his most loyal aides from gaining a clear picture of what was going on — and, more important, not going on — with the program. Moreover, the Duelfer Report makes John Kerry's (current) campaign position that he would not have invaded Iraq based on what we know now not only irrelevant, but grotesque. No President is ever properly held to a "twenty-tweny-hindsight" standard that Senator Kerry is suggesting applies - a suggestion he will, by the way, deeply regret if he is elected in next month. The proper standard for judging the President is, and always has been: Did the President make the correct decision based on the intelligence he had then? The core of the "Bush lied" assault on the President has been entirely based on the claim that he knew more than he disclosed to the public. But the Duelfer Report says that even Saddam's closest aides did not possess the information the "Bush Lied" crowd claims the President kept to himself. Even more fundamentally, the Duelfer Report makes charges that American intelligence should have determined what Saddam's closest military aides could not determine - the status of Iraq's weapons programs - also absurd. In short: If the Duelfer Report is correct, accepting arguments that the President withheld information on the status of Iraq's weapons systems, or that American intelligence misled the government or the world, shows nothing but a failure of another kind of intelligence that is, "smarts."

..of a different kind...

Precedence may be in issue but might we already be beyond that point? Limited resources will be allocated to users in some manner. Climbers having staked out certain areas might be given those areas for keeps! I have no truck with the psycho-babble of advancing climbing or saving the challenge for a future generation who is more up to the task but I do think tht the future of climbing is wide open with new great routes (bolt protected and otherwise) awaiting discovery. It seems like extensive development might be the equivalent of putting all the eggs in an inferior basket.

I haven’t read all the posts on this thread but since Castle Rock has been mentioned, I thought I’d bring up Monkey Lip. This is a really fun route. All of the difficult climbing is protected by fixed pins. These pins 15 years ago were complete junk. Now they are certainly even worse. Why not replace these fps with nice SS bolts and have a safe route that will last 30+ years. Some thoughts: 1 Proper bolting will have no more of a visual impact than the existing pins. 2 SS bolts will be strong for a very long time – something that is untrue of pins. (If I remember correctly the pins are KB and Bugs) 3 I in the future clean protection is invented that can be used the bolts can be pulled the holes sealed over and the route is restored. If pins keep being replaced every 5-10 years scars will form.

PBR?

This read explains more with what's wrong with France than any overt political assessment. Of course I recomend "Spiderman 2" for those needing and education regarding international politics. PP

Please explain what his means. Cheers If I can not place a piece of protection that I feel I can live with and/or I could fall on, then I should not be there. I do not rely on anybody else but what is naturally given to me on the route. But I still rely on the mechanics of a Camalot! I also should not climb a 5.10 route if I can't climb 5.9 I gotta earn to be a 5.10 climber and above, that means being confident on 5.9. and sequential grades. Sorry Stefan - You're talking jibberish. Cheers,

Please explain what his means. Cheers

The full Biographie is intense! Just doing the original version with a hang was tough!

John and Jimi did play together!

..that weren't Bob Marley and Jimi Hendrix Robert Fripp and Scott Walker any others?

At least for Jim and J_B... PP oh yea see attachment!

Why hasn't anyone mentioned the variation to the 3rd pitch? Sandbag!