Lambone

dammit I give up...it's in the gallery. spray on...

Thought we could all learn something from this. Stolen from SuperTopo

I had once been in the middle of a few scary aid moves when my aider that was hanging below me cliped itself into a draw a a couple of peices down. I had to go back down on a couple of pieces that had just scared the shit out of me, that sucked...

Yeah, if lowering you retie into the rope before you undo the 8. There is anotherway to do it also, but it's more or less the same thing.

HADU, I've got a Western Mountainering Puma that I like. Dry Loft rated to -20. Make me an offer, I'd be tempted to sell it at the right price. Bought it for a Nepal trip, I haven't used it in almost two years. Matt

nice job, so was three stoppers just a bit too much?

yeah Bishop is cool, but damn thats a long drive...

wow! I once had my v-threader get stuck on the back of my crampon on a pitch, it was scary for a minute or two, but it got it off...that sounds much worse, it's a weird feeling to not be able to move your feet!

I use mostly a combo of BD's and Metolious, with Aliens on the small end. I like Camolot's better than Met's but the Met's are much lighter. I primarily use the Camolots and double up with Mets. Doubles on Camolots would be two heavy for fee climbing, not to menntion expensive...

holy shit, an 1.5 hours! epic...at least you made it, hope the way out was better!

Sounds like you guys are ready for the NR of Stuart this summer!

Cool, looks like we are moving. Found a place this weekend near Applegate, bout halfway between Medford and Grants Pass, it's pretty down there. We are also looking to a trailerable sailboat if any of you guys/gals are into sailing. Castle Crags looks like THE place! Also looking forward to spring skiing on Shasta! I'll havta hit pub club in Eugene sometime!

catbird, one time I allways use cordelettes is for wall anchors which often have three fat bolts. I keep three small lockers on the bolts(BD enduros) and use one fatty pare shape for the main point. Sometimes I double that with an extra biner. when I break down the anchor I take the biners off the bolts and untie the figure 8, but keep everything more or less eaqualized. Then I fold it in half and tie it in a big knot and clip it to the back of my harness. It is big and heavy, but it's aid climbing, so it seems to fit the theme. The nice thing about leaving the cord equalized is when you hit the next belay you just slap on the three bolt biners, straighten it out, tie a figure 8, clip in and you are off belay and the rope is fixed. Takes about 30 seconds. Nothing bothers me more then when a leader takes 15 minutes to set up a freakin belay, especialy on a wall with luxury anchors, so I try to be as quick as I can myself. Also, just haul straight off one bolt, they are bomber. In the alpine or ice climbing I ussually tie in with a rope and equalize the anchor with a double length runner. Usualy I carry a cordelette, but it is more for an emergency. A cordeleette and some pear lockers is the best thing you can have for a self rescue. Two is better, but having at least one makes a big difference. For rock I use Maxim 5.5 tech cord, the stiff expensive stuff. On ice I use 6 or 7 mil cheap chord that can be cut up for threads if bailing. Hope that helps.

I have a pair of the camp alumi's. they are nice to, you definately feel a difference, on your feet and pack!

Fast climbing on Polar, nice job...it's one of my dream routes! How was the ice?

I am sure scottp means it when he says "only good anchor." It wouldn't bother me...but I'm sure others might be offended. If it is bothering you, just get a belayer for that route...

I agree, never assume you know all of the saftey/mechanical stuff. I've been climbing for over 12 years and still am learning new stuff. Plus, even if you did learn everything in one month from a book or instructor, there are lots of different ways to think about climbing situations, and ways to approach problems. You need to have lots of tricks in the bag so that you can adapt to different situations. This is true even in the most basic sport climbing environment...even in the gym.

I'm not sure I agree with the "only you will know when you are ready to lead" philosophy. A good friend of mine ruined his anckle and will never walk the same again because he was convinced that he was ready to lead....obviously he wasn't. I would seek the advice of a experienced mentor. Let them watch you, and have them offer critisizm. they may tell you to hold off on the 5.9's untill you are smoother on the 5.8's. And that would be good advice.

Josh, i'd take the 9/50m. it's lighter and it sounds like you can probably easily simo anything if you cant reach a good belay.

Isn't there sometimes an ice pitch on that route?

Of course, no one is going to be able to answer that for you over the internet. You might be solid, you might be sketchy...it is different for everyone. There is no clear cut answer to when a person should start leading. What I would do is find a more experienced climber, that you trust, and have them belay you on some routes and watch your technique. See what they think, if they were scared belaying you then maybe you should tone it down a notch. Clipping isn't the easiest motion to get use to. It takes some time and practice. I'd stick to easier routes so that you can concentrate on your clipping technicue. When you start to push your limit you will need it. If you fall while botching a clip, it will be a long one. If your struggleing to get the rope in and getting pumped, just back off and try something easier. Another thing that is important is to practice falling. Get a belayer who knows what they are doing and make yourself take some whippers from different heights on the wall. Get a feel for how far you fall and what happens. Of course I assume that you allready know the principles of how to fall and what to whatch out for. I also stress the belayer who knows what they are doing part! That goes for you as well. Climbing up and clipping the draws the right way is one thing, belaying is a whole 'nother story. (Without trying to sound like a former lead instructor...) Belaying a leader is a big responsibility. It is a subtle skill to catch a fall properly, especialy on a small wall. It usualy takes a climber longer than one month of just top-rope belaying practice before they have the rope handeling skills that a good dynamic lead belay requires. That being said...the gym I used to work for wouldn't even let you take the lead test untill you had been climbing for at least a year and had a few outdoor leads under your belt, or took a private lead class. I hope that helps, let me know if you have more questions...good luck, be safe.

eric8, feathered friends carries some Ibex stuff try there...

nice...you be smarter than me!

I haven't gotten mine yet, whats up with that?

dirtwigle, I see no corelation to your two "points." But that aside, your first post reads as if with all your training and expertise you are some sort of invincible hero waiting to rescue the poor gumby who is misfortunate enough to "soil" your trip. I don't know you, and I will not pass judgements opon you, only what you have written. As far as the gumby comment, should we meet in the mountains someday, I'll let you decide... And if you do decide that I am one of your gumbies, or should I say sheep, I will rest easy knowing that you are "constantly on the lookout" watching over me.... Come on we all know that your just die'in to pull some cowboy cable-helo extraction manuver, you ain't foolin no one.