
Lambone
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Everything posted by Lambone
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Hey will, you funny... but your right, I don't have the balls for that A5 shit. I want to climb till I'm old and flabby. And my girl won't let me... It's funny that you say that cause I make my partners beg and plead for the pins before I tag 'em up!! Its fun to use ethics as an excuse to induce fear and misery! Go clean bro... Hey Cavey... Thanks man, you don't know what that means to me! Unfortunately I was only crack climbing because my partner was freaked out by the wall. But I have to say it was nice to free climb in YNP again. Peace dog. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 06-26-2001).]
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Hey Cavey, Yeah man I'm down... But I think I'd perfer to do it in winter. You got any old Snargs that we could pound into tree limbs?!
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Ahh... I'm just playin' I drytooled in the rain at Merrymore once! It was Dope!
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Ed. Hey, since you are curious... A few days ago I did the Reg. Route on Fairview Dome. Wonderfull climb. Pretty easy though, and lots of other parties. I think it is the longest Non-Alpine route in Toulomne. Cathdreal Peak- stellar. Bring a light rack, watch for loose flakes. You could climb the thing Ten times and pick a new line each time! Walls... I have done a few. I'd rather not spray about which ones, if there is one in particular you are considering let me know and I'll hook you with some "beta"(stupid lingo!) Have you done any walls before? If not I could give some good suggestions on which ones to pick. Unfortuately everyone knows about them, so they are often crowded. But don' let that deter you. Hey Cavey, just messin with ya before... Lambone
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Hey specialed, I got your back! We Montanan's got to stick together. Captin Craphead is a dumbass. About raplines, thin ones are fine. Just becarefull what knot you use to tie them together. Charlie Fowler recomended a square knot backed up with overhands on the tails. Double Fishermans are good, but the greater the difference in diameter, the weaker the knot. ONLY USE THE GOOD OLD OVERHAND WITH ROPES OF EQUAL DIAMETER! Also, make sure the skinny rope goes through the rap biner or ring. Pull the fat one. Otherwise te Knot will get sucked into the rap anchor (which can suck!). Anyways I am sure someone from the Trad Klan will disagree with me. But I don't care what they think. Too bad Blodgett got burned huh?
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Its pretty funny that Washington Ice climbers spend most of their time climbing trees. Hey, mikey... Mabye you should trade in those plastics for some fairy leather boots, get rid of the WWII helmet, and treat the Ice with respect. Try to use some of those fairy rock climbing techniques to preserve the Ice Castle for the next guy. "Take only photo's, leave only footprints" doesn't imply bashing the shit out of the Ice like some midevil warrior. I don't want to climb your footprints. Happy Ice dreams, I share your passion.
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I have done a few of the routes in the Supertopo book since it came out. It is amazing how accurate all the information is, down to the number of fixed heads and pins, although the routes are continualy changing. I did find that some of the pitch lengths were a bit off. Usually they were actually shorter than the book listed, so it was never a problem. Anyway, my two cents is... The book is well worth the twenty bucks or so if you are headed for the walls. Also, Chris Mac and the ASCA deserve alot of credit and support for their rebolting efforts. (No, not more new bolts, only replacement of shwag ones!) Have fun!
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Hey Dwayner, It sounds like your just upset because no one wants you as a mentor. Get over it, your barking up the wrong tree.
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This is true, but if you are friends with your partners, its nice to have someone to talk to at the belay. Especially on long routes like Mescalito. At least if your pissed at one guy, you can talk to the other. It breaks up the monotony of walls. Draw straws for the cool pitches! I like three, cause you get alittle more rest, and you can split up the hauling better. It can be fast and pretty smooth if you are all dialed in. You can also short fix alot of stuff if you have a tag line. Three is cool. Just my opinion. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 06-08-2001).]
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Hey copperhead, I'm just curious if you have done any walls in yosemite. I am heading there on Tuesday and am open to suggestions. My partner and I are thinking about the NA wall. Heard anything about it? My friend and I are looking for a third to do Mescalito with in september. Let me know what your up to. -matt
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Nice job kassidy. I'll have to check it out. Are you sure I won't need my stick clip!
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Hey Kassidy, You sound more like Tom Cruse or Stallone to me! Pope, to be honest with you, I french freed up most of Slow Children. The "off the couch" on-sight attempt scared me. I was afraid I'd run out of pro on the finishing moves. That mantle to the chains had me damn intimedated. I then did it on top-rope with no sweat. Now that I've got the gear figured out, that baby is mine! I sort of on-sighted Thin fingers (your call). I tried to do it in one pitch, but got scared on the ledge in the middle. So I stood up in a sling off the bolt to slot a sweet TCU up above. Then I re-started the crux off the ledge, confident with good gear. It must have been Bovings ghost freaking me out! I won't lie, I was pumped as all hell on the upper hand crack, but ooooooh it's dope!!!! Not to spray about myself, but you asked. And I need a break from homework.
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Now thats a scary thought!
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You're right Dwayner, the gym can be pretty funny sometimes. Its a slacker job though so I don't mind! I am in school full time also. That explains why I've been on this site so much lately, I'm blowing off my homework! Yeah mike, but first I'd give you a belay test! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 06-02-2001).]
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If there is a record, I am sure big ALEX still holds it!
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If you are the same Chongo I met under The Sea last year, I can't wait to come hear some more about quantum physics! Way better than any of Dwayner's stupid lessons. You know you really freaked my Born Again friends out. They are going through all kinds of moral delemas! I can't wait to see how many haulbags you've got straped up to that bitch this spring! Hows that book comin'? When can I get a copy? You never told me the ending, what really happened to Jesus???? You rule Chongo, I'll save you some candybars!
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You know what they say, veryone likes the smell of their own shit!
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To Donna's Q: I think that any philosopher would ask: If there were no climbers, would the mountains have any quality? Similar to the tree falling in the woods debate. Here are some of Aldo Leopolds thoughts, "But all conservation of wilderness is self defeating, for to cherish we must see and fondle, and when we have seen and fondled, there is no wilderness left to cherish." and, "Parks are made to bring music to the many, but by the time many are attuned to hear it there is little left but noise." (A Sand County Almanac) This is one of my favorite books, and considering it was written in the forties, I would say this is not a new issue. Love of wilderness came along way before the comercialization of it. I would argue that it is not the magazines promoting the wilderness, but the wilderness promoting the magazines. If you don't like the crowds on the Zodiac, try a route that forces you into your top-steps... that is your specialty isn't it.
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Hey Dwayner, I got one for ya, it is actually pretty sad, but I just can't resist the temptation. One of my bolt clipping buddies took a grounder in Red Rocks this year. His belay bitch thought he was going to rap off the anchors. He thought wrong. One 70 footer, a broken pelvis plus shattered limbs and two cracked vertebra later, my poor freind realized the importance of good comunication. Any way he's lucky to be alive. And so are you. It's interesting that gravity doesn't give a shit about a persons "values." Still, I am sure Lou would be proud of you.
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S7 wants 75.95 for cotton pants. I got mine straight from the sweatshop child's hands for only 4.95 in Thailand! I wish I had bought my girls engagement ring there. You sure do know alot about the latest fasion trends. I know you've been drooling over those catologs! Time to retire old tighties huh. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 06-02-2001).]
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Bouldering rules. Enough said. Bolts are pretty. They promote a healthier environment. Clip'um if ya got 'em. And El Cap ain't no pile of choss. Muir and Clyde take Lou and Fred to school. And run out trad routes are for people with somethin' to prove. Go smoke a Bone!
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Hey Jon, This came up before, but you guys should relly change those home page pictures. They are gettin' old fast. I'd help but I only have cool pictures from Montana and Yosemite. Guess its time to go climbin! Thanks for all the hard work.
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Just for the record, I NEVER THREATENED ANYONE. Except Dwayner! Mike- I matt, and If you have any brains you even know where I work. Go smoke a BONE!!!! Wouldn't it be funny if I was really Dwayners alter ego! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 06-02-2001).]
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Hey Dru, F*#@ off, I din't say that I paid seven hundred bucks to fly in. My stupid old ex- boss did. I'm just another dirtbag who will someday have to walk in like everyone else. And I will like it. If you wan't to spray about epic approaches, bring it on! My stupid old ex-boss fired me for being late to work after I hiked 30 miles out of the Winds in a day with no food, a 50 lb. pack, and a partialy dislocated shoulder. Then I had to drive 5 hours back to Bozeman. Needless to say I slept through my alarm clock!
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If you really want to beat this subject to death, let's talk about it somewhere else.