fishstick

The size 1 Petzl Elios fits quite small; it is however rather expensive. GB

Not surprising really. I've talked to a number of rope industry folks and most seem to have tales of test results falling below test expectations when it comes to small ropes. It seems that although these ropes can pass a UIAA test when taken out of the plastic bag, if used for a week of climbing (even sans falls), they fail much more easily. Note however that most of these conversations (at least the most interesting ones) took place prior to the widespread introduction of super skinny cords. At the time concern was centered around sub 60g singles. GB

Although they add clutter, they also reduce complexity at stations. At only 48gm it's a no-brainer on ice or alpine terrain. GB

Although there may not be a route that can be done leashless that would be impossible with leashed tools, the former would seem to offer better style. Leashless tools do offer the opportunity to match (ie. left hand grabs right tool) which can offer unique solutions to cruxes. Dropping the tool is an issue especially when removing one with a stuck pick. Ask yourself however how many tools would you have dropped had you not had leashes and how do carpenters avoid dropping hammers working on tall buildings? GB

I'm not trying to say that you can climb harder with leashless sticks, but rather, the concept might be much more applicable than originally thought when it was forced upon climbers in comps. I've fiddled with probably 50 variations of leashes in a quest for perfect security and ease of exit, yet the pure fun of leashless tools has left a very positive impression (maybe it's just because I'm not facing a 60 meter slug-fest at the moment). It's like going from a very cluttered rack, to carrying only draws, or soloing. It's beautifully simple! One of the things that also struck me was it forced me to be a better climber, because I needed to utilize better technique in an effort to spare my arms, in the same manner that forcing yourself to use only textured pannels (rather than holds) on an EP wall for your feet makes you more aware of body position. Please keep in mind that I'm not trying to ram the concept down anyone's throat. I do however think that we should be aware of a potential big change. It's also worth noting that a friend with almost no ice experience, but 5.12 or 13 rock ability adjusted to leashless tools instantly. He feels that leashes just seem contrived and limiting. GB

Seriously folks, there was a huge amount of negativity when sport climbing hit North American shores, but look what it did to standards. All of the arguements offered thus far center around safety, but none address ethics, asthetics or power. GB

I was going to, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to holster one of the "deer antler sticks" when cruising short rock sections. GB

Noted, but Guy Lacelle soloed polar Circus leashless and I believe Riptide has been climbed leashless as well. When I first cut off my umbilicals in the mid 80's it felt risky, but now I'd laugh at the thought of ever re-attaching them. GB

Have you ever thought about getting rid of your leashes? On a few occasions this year I was able to try modern leashless tools (Scuds and Top Machines). Quite admittedly I've found them intimidating and have only top-roped with them, but they left a refreshing impression of freedom and new challenge. In a sense, jumping on the leashless bandwagon might be similar to an experienced alpine skier switching to tele boards. I don't think leashless tools suit all terrain and situations, but then again, neither do many skis. A second set of tools is actually cheaper than an extra set of boards. I've heard of people bolting rope thimbles to their existing tools to provide a less expensive alternative than purchasing new ones. A number of very good climbers in North America are going or pondering the switch to leashless tools. Apparently much of France already has. Should we step up to the plate? GB

Nelly, Assuming you mean Mt. Steele in the Icefield range (Yukon), would you be talking about the 7 pound HF radios rented by Andy Williams, complete with 200' antenna? Sort of Korean war vintage? Ours came complete with dead batteries but it took a while to figure that out. We initially thought it was a geographic issue so we kept moving the damn thing from place to place. GB

Apart from the hostel, I know of nothing cheap in Lousie. If staying in Canmore, try the A1 motel. Not perfect, but under 200.00CDN per week with a kitchenette. It might also be worth trying the motel at Saskatchewan River crossing, an hour North of Louise (1/2 hour South of Polar Circus). A couple of years ago it opened in March, had dirt cheap rates, a hot tub, a bar with a happy hour and Mt. Wilson in the back yard. Just watch those sunny slopes! GB

Exiting the Northern Waddington range via Crazy Creek (between Twist creek and the Scimitar glacier). It's got the worst slide alder and devils club on the planet, the worst bugs I've ever encountered, two sporting creek crossings and a very real grizzly population. Add exhustion and the need to camp in the middle of a bear trail and you're getting the picture. GB Ooops, guess that's the Coast Range... [ 03-22-2002: Message edited by: fishstick ]

"Dead bird is the last Gore manufacturer in NA..." Wrongo! GB

OK, I turned my brain on and measured the width of my fist. 149mm is way out after all. GB

I've used 2F's and Black ices and strongly favour the performance of the 2F. They also fit a wider variety of boots. GB

So I guess if Airbus Industries, BC softwood producers, European and Canadian farmers, and Korean steel producers all chose to use prison labor, that wouldn't be seen as a subsidy by the US government?

It would create a nightmare if everyone in a crowded area did this, but I've had very good luck with "fox 40" whistles. 1 blast = secure. 2 blasts = on belay and climb. GB

#9's have a width of 149. GB

DMM Raptor in a 60CM (possibly with the optional reverse curve)(yes, I can self arrest with it). Heavy, but it's got a HUGE adze, a spike that doesn't choke with snow or wear out and a good European handle on quality control issues. The 60 swings much nicer than the 65 and stays out of the way better on rock pitches and on approaches. GB

Dru, Dumb question: what is the divide between the Lillooet and Pacific ranges? GB

The Cairngorms in Scotland. Despite having visited the range for only 3 days, it's simply the best winter climbing I've ever seen. Ben Nevis is rumoured to be even better. GB

Great article and pics. Maybe the route was a sort of reward for your Patagonian vacation. GB

a,f,f,c,b,b,a,d Cheers and good luck, GB

"Super Rescue Man" is Canadian. All Canadians are relaxed on ice. Just look at our women's hockey team. GB

I'm unsure of the Mosquito lake road, or which access that actually is. I wrote the following for a friend. Note that directions are based upon travelling from Vancouver. North Twin Sister Here's the verbal version of the directions beginning in Sumas Wash. Watch your speed limit (25 MPH on main street). TURN left at the South end of town as for Baker (speed limit now 30 MPH) (radar on these two streets 98% of the time). No more radar beyond this point. Drive to Kendall (perhaps 15-20 k). Kendall is the place with the large NEW school on the right, fire station on the left. Impossible to miss the school. TURN right at Kendall beyond the school and drive towards Bellingham. Drive for perhaps 10k. You'll pass the "North Fork" aka "The Beer Shrine" on your right after about 6 k or so (recommended beer. Pizza OK but expensive). While driving up a slight hill with a long gradual right turn, you can see the Twin Sisters to the left for a short period if the weather is very clear. A couple of K's after the hill, you'll see a small store on the left (might be called "the welcome store") with a white community hall or church beyond (next) to it. TURN left on to the paved road between the two. Drive the paved road for maybe 10 minutes (might be a bit less). After crossing what seems like a small bridge, (several K's beyond the farms with the 90 degree right then 90 degree left turns) a gravel road branches to the left at a 45 degree angle. TURN left here onto the gavel road. If you miss this turn and come to a big bridge across a river, turn around and find your road 1/4 mile or so back up the road. Follow the main logging road following instinct! The only doubtful turn is when driving along a side hill where the road forks, offering a lower downhill option to the right TURN right onto the lower (and more traveled option). You'll cross a curved concrete bridge and 5 minutes later come to a yellow metal bridge that is probably gated. PARK here. Ride up the road following the most obvious forks. The main option is a fork after only 5 minutes or so (gated), stay left on the main road. After 35minutes of walking (maybe 26-28 minutes on a bike) you'll cross a creek that has visibly yellow coloured water. 10 minutes above that you'll see a side road branching to the right. Next to the side road on its left side is a pile of gravel (another spur 5 minutes earlier also has a pile of gravel but is not in driveable condition-the initial spur is wrong). TURN right onto the side road. After 5-8 minutes you'll come to an area where the road is blocked by large boulders (shortly after a great campsite on the right). No boulders = wrong road! Follow the road beyond the boulders. Eventually cross a creek and continue to follow the main road (stay left at any options). North Twin will be clearly visible as you ride through the clear cuts. When almost directly below North Twin, the road in the clearcut hits a high point and begin to drop. 100 meters beyond the high point a rather bushy skid road (with cairn) branches to the left. Rather hard to notice. TURN left up the skid road and follow main road. If memory serves correct you'll switch back to the left, then eventually to the right. Several minutes above the second (right) switchback a rather unexpected switchback/fork appears to the left. TURN left and follow this branch, eventually doing a switchback to the right and going into a logging landing (open level spot) several hundred meters later. The trail to the West Ridge begins here on the ridge crest. Walking times are generally 2-2 1/2 hours to this point from the car, so around 10K. Enjoy! GB P.S. Note that the snow level on the road will probably be about 100 meters below the described "yellow coloured creek" at this time of year, or after 35 minutes of walking. [ 02-20-2002: Message edited by: fishstick ]