Tod

Perfect setup for someone who wants a top end powder ski that skis well out of the pow. The skis are nearly brand new; only skied on 2-3 times and in near perfect/new shape. Black Diamond: 2014 Carbon Megawatt 178 (Sugg Retail $1000) Dynafit: STS Radical Binding (Sugg Retail $500) Black Diamond: GlideLite Mix STS Climbing Skins (includes bag) (Sugg Retail $185) Black Diamond: Ascension STS Climbing Skins (includes bag) (Sugg Retail $170) Condition: Near perfect/new shape (only skied on 2-3 times). I can send pics of the bases, near new condition (only one slight mark on the base, see pic below, hard to see). Bindings: They are mounted for a 300mm boot. Bindings are adjustable, but I'm not sure how far. Total Suggested Retail: $1855 Selling for $900 obo Will ship from Tacoma, WA at actual cost for shipping/packaging. Message me for fastest response or with any questions

Anyone been up there recently? Any reports?

caltopo.com: Route planning and map (PDF) printing. No reason to buy software as it's all outdated compared to caltopo.com GAIA App: for your phone while in the field. You can import GPX tracks/waypoints from caltopo (or any other source), or do your own route planning in the app. You can download maps, Satelite, etc for offline use. Phones in the field: If you put it in airplane mode, they will last for days and are quite durable and water resistant/proof on their own. I have used iPhones and Samsung Galaxy S4's and S5's for years in the backcountry, rain, snow (never put a waterproof case on them). Typically I can get 4-5 days out of a battery with airplane mode on, semi-regular GPS use, and some solitaire during the evening. If you can't get a phone to last more than a couple of days you probably don't have it in airplane mode, have a dead phone/battery, or play to many games.

The Kindy Creek Road (FR-1570) and bridge across the Cascade river were in as of two months ago. The road is blocked by boulders at the intersection of the Sonny Boy Rd. From there it is a hike up to the end of the road, crossing a few washouts. As of mid April, snow started around 3400', so traveling up to the 4000' bench and beyond should be easy. A descent description of the approach to the climbers trail: http://www.willhiteweb.com/washington_climbing/cascade_river/snowking_mountain_047.htm

You nailed it. If we were comparing this to climbing a rock wall then dynamic forces are very important. Being that we are talking about low angle glaciers it's a much different animal. Either way, the main point was, use knots if you are a two man team, or have more people on the rope to stop a fall. Longer or shorter distances are not going to stop the falls that were demo'd in that video.

In the video, if the climbers had knots in their ropes, or a third person on the team the falls would have had a I rate of success (not more distance). Knots: -2-Man Team: Knots will most likely stop the fall, not the climber. Butterfly knots can be incredibly effective and make a two man team realistic in crevassed terrain. -3-Man Team: Multiple team members to stop the fall adds to the success rate of catching a fall. Distance between climbers: -More distance: adds more potential slack which adds more potential force on the climber arresting the fall. (you have 100' between you and someone falls, the person falling will have picked up a lot of speed/force prior to the rope going tight) -Less distance: adds better reaction ability prior to too much force being added to rope/climber arresting fall. (you have <50' then the rope will go tight sooner and less force will hit the person catching the fall) -Correct Distance?: I see a lot of teams that assume to use the whole rope, which makes for far too much length between climbers. Being closer to the other climbers make for quicker actions under less force and better rope management. Obviously though you need enough length to get around crevasses and stop a fall before you get pulled in. AAI has a great page showing info on rope lengths between climbers (http://blog.alpineinstitute.com/2010/11/rope-length-on-glacier.html)

Please make sure the public's voice is heard on this. Contact Ms. Bush and the NCNP and let them know your opinion on this (even if you don't agree on bolting in any form). The policy of no bolting and allowing nests of slings is unacceptably dangerous and environmentally unfriendly. Bolted descent routes on popular North Cascade climbs is safer, and cause less visual and physical impact upon the wilderness area. This isn't the first or last time that the NCNP's policy of removing anchors (bolts and slings) has been linked to climber injury and/or death. The NCNP is not only NOT listening to the public seriously; they won't listen constructively with persons or the AAC, Access Fund, etc.. They are NOT keeping up responsible climbing management plans with public input. And now they are NOT even listening to their own directors. NPS Director's Orders #41 clearly states the acceptance of using bolts and creating management plans with public input. If you haven't seen it yet, this is now being written up by Rock and Ice in an editorial: TNB: DEATH ON FORBIDDEN PEAK: WAS THE NPS COMPLICIT? http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/tnb-death-on-forbidden-peak-was-the-nps-complicit

These have been sold.... FOR SALE: Black Diamond Express Ice Screws Practically brand new! $30 each (Reg: $60) Near perfect condition Only 2-3 need very minor sharpening Well taken care of and used for only a few seasons PLUS: I'll throw in four Ice Clippers that I used once... (2) 10cm - Red (2) 13cm - Yellow (6) 16cm - Blue (7) 19cm - Gray (1) 22cm - Green Yeah that's right, save $540 for some screws that look and work like they are brand new... For those that are interested, but don't want (18) screws, I would be willing to split the set in half. If interested, email me at tod"at"edgeworksclimbing.com Tod

There is some good info regarding rapping with a 60M using Heaven's Gate to Golden Road anchors. It works fine, I've done it multiple times. See the comments (below the beta section) for Lovin' Arms on mountainproject.com. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/lovin-arms/106194690

Here's some info detailing why BD chose the sling design. In short it was the optimum way to not comprise safety or weight: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/knowledge/qc-labreslinging-camalots-and-c3s

Brown bear is one thing; not something you want to be around... In all seriousness, unless the black bear has been trained by the Yosemite NPS to taste test every campsite kitchen it finds (which gives them a badge of honor tagged to their ear), then.... ...black bears want nothing to do with you. They are predominately ominivoristic (vegetarians) and tend to be extremely skittish around humans; they usually stick to themselves or more likely they run as fast as they can away from you. Unless you startled the bear and had it cornered you'd be lucky to even get a bear near you let alone attack you. I've had many MANY run-ins with black bears; I've been between a bear and its cubs (yes that was a nervous moment), I've had a bear stare me down at 3am wondering why I was sleeping on its trail (mental note, never sleep on a trail, you'll get stepped on by more than just people), I've seen 5 bear in one day and absolutely amazed at how fast and powerful they can tear through a forest like a bulldozer trying to run away from you.... Unless you're in grizzly country, leave the guns and mace at home, they just add weight and make other people nervous....

Thank you to those that did some pruning. It made the log walking much easier. Impressive amount of linking log ramps together just to get down to the creek. The water in the creek is very high right now so getting across the last 5-10 feet of the creek is a bit interesting; you walk the tree until it is only about 4-6" around and then jump to a broken rotting log that is angled into the creek. Once the water drops a little it won't be as interesting.

Yes the map is accurate. Great beta. Is the map below accurate? (from the the Penticton Chamber of Commerce site)

For the last 5+ years I have tried to go up there once or twice a year; rarely do I find it crowded unless you go on a Canadian holiday (or a holiday shared by Canada and the US). It is a super friendly place; dogs are welcome, climbers from all over travel to climb there and are typically very friendly, the ratio of women to men are astounding (one trip I counted 4+ women to every guy, which was welcomed by both genders in our group). =) The routes have MUCH MORE variety than Smith. You can find climbs of all abilities (yes beginner and expert alike) that are FUN and if you are looking for some routes that are long and/or sporty/overhung it's hard to beat. The place has been well developed in the last few years; the access is great, VERY GOOD parking (new access and parking lot in the last 3 years with the help of MEC, local climbers and city), trails are fairly well marked and lead to many different canyons and bluffs that are spread out over a fairly large provincial park, composting toilets in key places, well bolted routes on fun and quality rock. There is some trad (some high quality trad too), but it is definitely mostly sport. The guidebook is well written and published in the by the same publisher that does the Squamish guidebook (in similar quality/style). It may be out print though and hard to find: http://www.canrockbooks.com/si/008027.html The camping is a bit problematic since it is a popular tourist town, so most camping is expensive, or up back roads and temporary. There is a a good website that promotes the climbing and has PDF's of new routes (and current ones too): http://www.skaha.org Personally I like it over Smith any day; it is much more easy going, it's a more pleasant environment/setting overlooking Lake Skaha and the routes are begging to be climbed (they are not sandbagged).

I've seen slika 3 set up in practice and it seems to work well and makes sense.