Billy

Two friends of mine just climbed a cool ice route on the NE face of Middle on wednesday. It lies just to the left of the NE Face route as shown in the guide and flows down over the rock band. The first pitch was WI 4+ followed by a second pitch of WI 4. Protection was sparse. The rest of the route was 55-60 deg neve to the top. I've never seen this route in before, but may be in high pressure winters like the ours, it forms. Its very cool looking.

Yesterday we attempted the East Buttress of North Sister. We wanted to climb the entire buttress from the bottom to the top as I'm not sure if its been done. The guidebook shows that the route bypasses the whole lower section, so we thought maybe we could climb some new pitches on the lower half and make it a complete ascent. The ice at the lower toe wasn't completely in, so we skirted around to the north side and climbed two 70 meter pitches of WI3 stepped terrain with some mixed thrown in. Another pitch of 60 meter of 55 deg neve/ice led us onto to the top of the lower east buttress. Decent rock anchors were used for belays. Then we unroped and climbed up the ridge to where it looked like it would merge into the main face. It didn't. We found ourselves crowned out on the high point of the lower buttress. We had to downclimb off the north side and get on to the main East Buttress Route. This feature is not apparent from any of the photos that I've seen before. Then we entered the normal East Buttress route as shown in the guidebook. This section (300 meters) was completely awesome 50-55 deg neve, with several short ice steps which we climbed unroped as the wind was howling and we wanted to keep moving. The gulley system narrows and then begins to get technical again. The mixed pitches above looked like the business and had thin ice over rock. At this point we decided not climb ourselves into a black hole, as we only had one rope for retreat and felt like these pitched looked time consuming to summit out on Glisan Pinnacle. It was late in the day and we decided that we didn't want to have to be looking for the trail in the woods in the dark. We downclimbed this couloir section as anchors are hard to come by. When we got back down, we could see that we had got to within 3 or 4 pitches of Glisan Pinnacle. It would have been really cool to have made it, but sometimes it just doesn't feel right. The complete ascent of the route is surely one of the finest winter routes of its type in Oregon. I haven't heard of anyone ever climbing the lower buttress before, but who knows. There is ice everywhere in the Sisters and the NE Face of Middle looks sweet. Mixed climbing abounds everywhere. Right now, it is too cold in the mountains for ice formation, but there is a lot there already, and when it gets warmer again and then colder, things are going to improve. Also, you can drive to Pole Creek trailhead and there is barely enough snow to ski on at the start of the trail. I'd imagine that it is possible to drive to the Pamelia Lake trailhead for Jefferson as well.

Does anyone know who makes the lightest bivy sack these days? Thanks for any info

I did Ham and Eggs last April, and conditions were excellent. From what I've heard that route and Shaken are best done early season. Some people (in AK) have told me that Ham and Eggs can be out of condition by mid-May. I guess alot depends on the particular year though. Have fun up there.

Rob- It took about 2:15 from the Mt Bach nordic center on skis.

We climbed a really cool route on the east facing crater wall on Broken Top on wednesday. After skiing into the entrance to the crater, the route starts in a broad couloir, narrows into a chimney, and then opens up again and ends at the most southwesterly summit. The first 150 meters starts low angle and then steepens to 55 deg. Then there is a short mixed pitch that goes up and right to gain the main narrow chimney which is about 20 meters. We made a rock belay on the right with pitons, but some stoppers and small tricams would be real helpful. The next pitch is the business, consisting of 60 meters of difficult mixed climbing, with alot of hooking on suspect cobbles and shaky pins for pro. Luckily for me, my partner lead this pitch.At the top of the hard stuff, we escaped on a ramp to the right. Then finally, there is about another 120 meters of 55 deg neve to the shoulder, with a short romp to that SW summit. I have seen the route with more ice, and it should be bettter later in the year, ie: spring. The crux pitch would be a beautiful WI 3 or 4 at that time. All in all an excellent outing with about 350 meters of climbing. When I get my pictures developed I'll try to post them if they are any good. I know of at least one other ascent of this climb in spring conditions, and one other possible ascent in winter conditions.

I climbed it in 1997, and attempted Pik Pobeda. PM me, and I can give you some info, and mail you a packet of info that's a little dated, but may be of some use. Also, a search on the internet will yield a few useful sites. Have fun.

Nice photo crackman, can you drive to Cloud Cap, or is the road gated? Thanks.

Vert- How are things shaping up in your neck of the woods, in the Elkhorns etc. Thanks

Thanks Vert! Are those climbs snowmelt or water seepages/courses? It would help to know this to judge conditions. Thanks

Hey Vert- Thanks for the info. Is that N face route on Strawberry Peak itself? Also, how far can you usually drive in? Do you know when those routes come into shape? Thanks for any info.

Hi- Anyone ever climbed the falls at Strawberry Lake? Anyone know anything about the approach, length of climb, difficulty, or any other ice climbs in the region?

C'mon Timmy, where are the pictures????? [ 11-11-2002, 11:59 AM: Message edited by: Billy ]

Timmy said: i saw some nice lines forming on the cascade lks hwy, i'll snap some pics tomorrow Timmy- Where are these lines? Enquiring minds want to know.

Does anyone know if Jeff Thomas is working on an updated Oregon High?

How many pickets do you need for the rappells?

I'd say that in order for E.H. to be shape in the fall, we need to have a couple storms deposit some snow. Then after a few days of cool, clear weather with melt/freeze, maybe the headwall will go. Just a thought, as I think that thing is dry as a bone right now.

I guess Alex hasn't done Jeff Park Glacier Route before. The Chronic Gumby status applies I guess...

OOHHH NOOO... Not Dr. Flash Amazing...again......

Robert- Is an ice axe still reqiured?

Good job. How much anti-gu did you need to make the summit?

Thanks Jonathon- What would be the recomended "least struggley way" to get up Access Creek? Near the creek? Any insights? Also, how long did it take you to get up to Luna Col? Thanks!

Jonathon- Do you have any beta on the Access Creek Approach from your trip last year? Any info would be great. Thanks

What Richard, you mean you didn't climb Leuthold's?

In this case you definately can't plan to be taken out exactly when you want. You have to realize that they'll come get you when they can. Eight hours is a pretty minimal time to wait as some folks wait for days. As far as Doug's scheduling goes, there is no way that you could know how busy his schedule is. I think people have the fast food mentality when it comes to Denali. That is, they think they can plan exactly how it is all going to go. In reality, you are climbing a mountain and things never go as planned. Give a little more respect to DG, he's doing the best he can.