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Everything posted by mattp
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But the tarp is too low tech. How can such a simple yet effective thing be any good? What - no logo???
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What are they going to do with your registration? I've heard of them taking keys and identification from cars parked at wilderness trailheads and then going to rob your home because they figure you won't be home, but most people don't spend very long at exit 38, and they are likely to go there without their spouse or housemates, so I doubt this would be all that great of a method.
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IMAM - Tools and screws are optional. As DavidG noted, they could have walked around the first ice patch, and I believe they could have climbed around the second one, too. But also as he noted, the ice may have been a more pleasant alternative and the extra tool came in handy. Glacier Peak is beautiful. Enjoy.
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Thinker: I think the problem lies in the way you entered the address for the picture -- you cut and pasted it from the browser, I bet. It looks like you entered: http://t.thinker.tripod.com/index.html instead of a complete url. Petzoldt Ridge is way cool, eh? I bet there is not a better 5.6 adventure anywhere, and maybe no better rock at that grade in such an alpine setting, either.
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Fern - By the way, does the Index General Store still sell it copied onto pink paper? A few years ago they tried to create their own fascimile of a copyright by copying Cummins' guide onto paper that was dark enough so that you couldn't re-copy it.
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Pick up Darryl Cramer's "Sky Valley Rock." It is pretty well done, and in addition to Index it includes Static Point and some sport climbing up behind Mt. Persis.
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I agree with your thumbnail analysis. I'm against it if companies like Disney, Coleman, and Yahama are for it -- there is no way I could believe they have non-motorized recreation or preservation of wild lands or any kind of long-term resource management among their priorities.
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Yeah. I remember carloads full of women, pulling up along side and honking as us as we drove over the pass in that badass 4x4 with a snowmobile trailer. They weren't interested in Alex or I, no sir -- "we want Dan!!!"
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bow-wow-wow-yippie-yo-yippie-yay
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Jens- Officer Intout certainly doesn't give a rat's ass. And it seems that his superior in Wenatchee, and the district ranger in Leavenworth support him in this (they like his aggressive enforcement style and don't really care much for climbers anyway). If you want to fight the ticket, they'll make you drive to Yakima at least twice and from what I hear you stand about 0% chance of beating it.
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Off - Those "urban myths" often have a basis in reality. I bet that somebody, somewhere, probably did suggest that sales show endorsement. And we certainly want to continue to make noise about this program while, in my opinion, recognizing that funding priorities are the real issue here -- not just our own personal interest in having free access to something we enjoy.
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quote: Originally posted by jon: And that's exactly point, our tax dollars are used for things that you may not support or use. You socialist!
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I agree with Allison. Gary is "one of the good guys" in the sense that I think he actually believes in stewardship and he is very supportive of non-motorized recreational use. He is definitely a breed apart from, say, the district ranger in Leavenworth.
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Yeah, the seams leaked on those things and the foam seemed to increase the funk factor even though it was advertised as reducing the clammy feel of wet coated nylon. But they retained their water-proofness longer than the coated nylons then available and they were reasonably light and compact compared to other alternatives at the time. For climbing some place like the Tetons, where a gully-washer normally passes rather quickly, they were OK because you could pull your legs up inside and just sit it out.
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So is Necro going to sponsor a contest to see who can come up with the biggest one?
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I think the foamback cagoule was OK for its day -- remember the ventile cotton jackets that were the "breathable" alternative?
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Watch it there, Alex -- you're setting us up with that one.
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Cavey , I think this one was bigger:
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Tom - I agree that it is pretty sad that some of these guys can't think up a new joke and they repeatedly slam Dan Larson and Scot'teryx or think all you have to do is write "horsecock" and you've been clever. But hey, I laughed at Dru's parody too. And I bet maybe even Scott could see the humor there.
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And take some pictures so you can post them here for us to look at while we're at work.
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I've done the N. Face in October, hoping to find ice, and there really was none. It was firn, more like firm snow than ice. And the rock traverse to get there was somewhat unpleasant as has been discussed on this board previously. I believe the ice fall is a little more likely to have some ice and it is said to be a slightly more interesting route. I would in some measure agree with Erik in that if you are looking for a spectacular climb, Mount Maude probably isn't a real good choice as far as great climbing-compared-to-amount-of-effort goes. But if you want to see some very beautiful wilderness, the Entiat cirque is about as nice as it gets and Mount Maude is one of the highest peaks in the State and worth climbing if you like that sort of thing. Also, the climb itself will probably be enjoyable.
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The approach for the Price Glacier would actually not be a bad choice if solitude is high on your agenda. The walk in there is pretty decent for an unmaintained trail and it is not all that big of an elevation gain; Price Lake itself is surrounded by brush but it is in a pretty cool location with views of some of the coolest aline stuff in the state. But unless you climb up some vey steep and somewhat scary heather slopes to get to the top of the ridgelet beyond, there are no panoramic views and, speaking of views, there are absolutely no views of any kind until you get to the lake. So maybe it sucks. But you would probably find solitude there.
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"the crux moves on p. 10 can be avoided by pulling on the bolts"
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I believe that there was a T.R. not long ago for the Park Glacier, though they came in from Ptarmigan Ridge (if I remember correctly). The Schrund at the top of Boulder Glacier is pretty big and may present a problem, but if it does you should be able to head up the cleaver or the Park Glacier headwall. I've climbed this way in at this time of year and though I don't remember whether it was an unusual snow year or not, we found a blocking crevasse requiring us to exit onto a pitch of very treacherous rock, but it was 5.easy treacherous rock, and the 'schrund was small enough where we crossed it that a bit of ploughing with the ice ace was sufficient to get us up the upper lip without great fear of falling in. Heed Terrible Ted's complaints about the approach. The trail is bushy, buggy, and boggy. And then there is some brush and mud. But the camp is scenic and there are fewer people on this route than other relatively doable routes on the mountain.