mattp

Lammy, I disagree. When I started climbing, lots of rock climbers were also backpackers and there was much more of a "no trace" ethic. The old Chouinard catalog, linked on this site this week, is an example of an impashioned plea for conservation that I do not believe would happen today. Climbers are much more into performance than they used to, be, and the drive to train and to perform means that they run out after work to get a quick workout - not to go climbing but to get a workout or to "work" their line - and this was rarely if ever done in the days of yore, and I think it leads climbers to want to have quick ready access to the crag with nothing in their way - and that this means they accept or even want a more modified climbing environment. Climbers today are learing to climb in gyms where they become used to an artificial environment and this, too, increases their acceptance of a modified climbing environment. This is part of the reason why we rip up rocks and rebuild the base of the cliffs at most sport climbing crags and some "trad" areas these days. In addition, there is in the gyms a big social scene (not that there wasn't one at climbing areas of yore, but the scene itself is now more a part of the experience, I think). When they go to Smith Rock, many of today's climbers actually ENJOY having a big scene with a hundred climbers milling about at the base of the dihedrals, and they expect to have flat areas all bordered by landscape timbers. This kind of thing was absolutely unheard of in the past. Bolts, too, are becoming much more widely used and most climbers are a lot less likely to view a bolt as an intrusion upon the rock environment than they used to. There is no question in my mind that today's climbers focuss less on preserving the crag environment than climbers of 25 years ago, and much more on enhancing it. When I climbed in Yosemite in the '70,s the base of the walls were littered with lunch bags containing turds, true, so that situation has probably improved somewhat. However, I don't think there is any less trash at the base of the cliff in Index or Leavenworth than there ever was.

Indeed, Cavey: its a popular place. I believe Dave Morales, for one, has done at least one unreported line that very closely follows if not duplicates that reported by Spagnut. I also think Alan Karney may have done a climb there as well. Perhaps it is exactly this kind of confusion that is leading Lowell Skoog to propose a Cascade climbing journal.

Before Vantage was widely publicized, lots of folks went to Peshastin in questionnable weather. If it rains in the canyons, there is a good chance it will still be OK down in the orchards.

Topping out on Bugaboo Spire, we noticed a black cloud coming from the West and figured it was time to leave. Fifteen minutes later, lightning hit the Howsers, and pretty soon we started seeing green sparks all over the place. As we set the first rappel, the rocks were buzzing and our hair was standing up on end; even my siser-in-law's braided pig-tails were sticking up! Two "old guys" came running accross the arete from the main summit and asked if they could join forces and share ropes wit us to get down more quickly. We said "sure." The first one jumps on our rope and after he completes the rappel his buddy throws two coiled ropes to him (nobody's hanging on to either end of them) and he sets the next rappel. The electricity is at this time getting really intense: we hear short-wave radio noises when you raise and lower our arms and stuff. Two quick raps down, and these guys set it up again for us. Running back and forth on the arete, though, one of them is left behind and just as we are pulling the next rappel rope down we see it stop, and slowly creep back up. What'r you trying to do, he asked after he raps down to join us. After that second set of rappels, we are out of the spark zone and we take the time to introduce ourselves. What'd you say your names were? Tom and Sandy. I was a novice at the time but I was reading the climbing magazines and quite impressed when our heroes turned out to be two guys I'd read about: Tom Frost and Sandy Bill.

Thank god. There is a voice of reason in a sea of madness...

Should you change your minds, I'd be sure to see you had a refill on your stein. (Deleted post notwithstanding.)

It's OK. You don't have to take home a keychain 'biner, Fence. But be sure to bring your beer stein.

It could be 5.8+ but ChucK's point was that it is a good steep face climb (though short). And there are megabolts and chains at the top for the sport-type lowering set up. I don't think it is a dangerous climb if you know what you are doing, but I suppose it may be a dangerous climb for one who is relatively new to placing gear or who's belayer is going to stand away from the bottom of the climb and be all casual about it and stuff. E may be right, though, that people deck from it a lot. There is a cruxy move right near the start, and you have to place gear while hanging on your arms, and those gear placements are not 100% straight forward. Above this, there is a stretch where most people run it out on easier ground for a little bit, too. But I don't think it merits an "R" in the guidebook or anything.

The South Face of Jello Tower (80 feet high; 5.8):

Meanwhile, as they keep revising the weather forecast downward, the beer forecast for both Friday and Saturday is starting to look up. There is a 90% chance of draft beer for Friday, and 100% for Saturday night.

I don't think you are the only one with misgivings about the Access Fund, Erik, but on balance I believe they have done a lot for Washington climbing. I'd like to hear what you have to say about them or Index, though. Let's get together tomorrow night.

I don't know about the lost steps at Index, Erik, but I think they built some damn nice trails at North Bend, Frenchmen's Coulee, Tieton and Darrington. In some cases it has taken a couple of "tries" before they were able to comlete something that wore well, but they've generally done good work in my view. Why don't you show up on Sunday and show us how to do it right?

Indeed, there are lots of trails around Leavenworth that need more work than the Castle Rock trail. As I understand it, the Castle Rock trail has been selected because it is already a formalized trail in their general management plan. I believe that, before they can let us go to work on something like the Midnight Rock trail, they'd have to undertake some more extensive environmental review or something like that. The Castle Rock trail is also a popular trail that is used by climbers and non-climbers who simply walk up to the top of Castle Rock for the view, and for that reason it may be appropriate to attempt to maintain the trail to a higher standard than most of us may think is absolutely necessary. It is a bit of an eroded sandy mess in places, and if they can improve that situation, it would be great!

As part of this year's ropeup, there will be a trail project at Castle Rock on Sunday, October 12, from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. If you want to help, bring work gloves and a helmet; wear sturdy boots. If you climb much around Leavenworth, you know that the access routes serving many of the crags suffer from erosion and other problems. Prior to Sunday's trail project, there may be some Forest Service personnel on hand to make a presentation or answer questions about their policies regarding climber's trails in the Leavenworth. This may take place at the campsite, or at the site of the trail project itself. The Access Fund was heavily involved in the creation of trails at Peshastin Pinnacles and Castle Rock, but it has been ten years since they've had a trail project in the Leavenworth area. I, for one, am very glad to spend a few hours scratching in the dirt and I take it as a positive step that the Forest Service wants to work with us on this project. If you don't mind getting a little bit dirty, please show up and lend your support.

"bring your own motor home," too. 'look forward to meeting you, Mr. Trask.

The last two years, we've been night-climbing on Friday night. Currently, NOAA shows the following: EAST SLOPES NORTHERN CASCADES- INCLUDING THE CITIES OF...LEAVENWORTH...METHOW...WINTHROP 400 AM PDT THU OCT 9 2003 FRIDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLEAR. LOWS IN THE LOWER 30S. Without any formal organization, it may be "bring-your-own-rope," too.

For truly moderate multipitch routes and a simple approach/descent Castle Rock has the finest and most scenic climbs in Leavenworth. Hands down.