ryland_moore
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Posts posted by ryland_moore
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I drove over 26 Monday and Tuesday night. Monday was really warm and most snow had melted. It was raining hard. Tuesday, more of the same with a lot of rain, but by 5 pm Tuesday, it was snowing hard. Not sure how long it lasted. Sounded like small accumulations.
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Name dropping? Do you know Tim? I know alot of Tims. I also know OF a lot of people who climb .13 and .14. It is not uncommon these days. Just becasue they are not pompus high almightys who need the personal attention by getting their names in hot flashes doesn't mean there are not a lot of 5.13 and 5.14 climbers out there because there are. There are more 5.13 and 5.14 climbers out there that do not get recognition becasue they don't care then there are 5.13 and 5.14 climbers that do. Doesn't mean I am name dropping. I like people because of who they are, hence why they are friends. If they happen to climb hard, race cars, or play Asteroids, that is secondary to who they are. I am sure there are plenty of badasses out there who are good climbers and I would not be friends with. Iain, I don't make fun of you because one of your friends is a D and D world champ do I?
I think you need a face shot fix or something!
p.s. How many pull ups can you do?
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I wouldn't call Bariloche Patagonia. It is considered the Lakes District and just east of Purto Montt. The coolest way there is you are down in Patagonia and not travelling by bus is to take the Navimag boat from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt, then get on a bus to the Lakes District/Bariloche. Or, you can hit it on the way down assuming you are flying into Santiago. The Navimag boat goes through the fjords of southern Chilean Patagonia where there are no roads. Pretty awesome trip in itself and super cheap. Bariloche does have some of the best crag rock climbing although there are some nice spots not too far from Puerto Natales. Ask the guys at the hostel with the bouldering wall on the outside in Puerto Natales. You will see this place as all buses go right past it on the way into town.
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OR Pro all the way!!!!!! Toasty and durable....
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I talked to my buddy Tim this morning as he has had a rope hung on it for a while now trying to work out the moves. He said that it is insanely hard and since the crack was bolted so early on, the pin scars are shallow, thin, and flared. Without really small fingers, it seems damn near impossible for the climbers of today. Beth's fingers are smaller than Tommy's hence the ascent. Not that it is easy by any means. My buddy Tim was only able to get up the first 20 feet of it. Could be like Lynn Hill on the Nose with other hardmen struggling to free it becasue of pin scar size? It was really good to see all the bad ass climbers out at Smith recently. Sonnie Trotter, Beth and Tommy, SHarma, and plenty of others have all been in the area, proving that Smith has some of the best climbs for the grade this time of year. Also heard that some of the hardmen couldn't finish another .14a in the area, showing that Smith shows solid climbing grades. Plus, you can't beat the views!
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Anyone head to Bend Saturday night for the beer, food, and awesome dealz Moon fundraiser? There was tons of gear donated by Metolius and the like. Plus other cool auctions like getting a Porche for the day, trips, etc. Cool prizes, fun times all for a great cause. There was a guy who was bidding against a friend of ours for a 70m rope. He outbid our friend and turned around a gave him the rope, because he just wanted to give money to Ben Moon's fund and didn't care about the rope Pretty cool!
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I never said definitively there wasn't enough snow. I said there didn't SEEM to be. Of course I would always dig a test pit and look at bonding before ever going into the backcountry if the area looked questionable or recent snow fall was there. All I am saying is that it seems that a little over four inches on most slopes is not enough weight to cause an avy. Wind slabs and loaded areas are different but also confined to specific areas. Are you an expert on backcountry travel all of a sudden after your two seasons of skiing? Definitively, you don't know until you go. Let's not turn this thread into a symantics issue on language. A Fallen brother of climbing is gone and it is a sad day.
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But, it doesn't appear that it was an avalanche. Did I read the story incorrectly? There doesn't even seem to be enough snow up there for one. It still appears to me that a snow bridge collapsed inside of a crevasse. Not an avalanche at all. No?
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Here's a more detailed story, although the climbers were not identified. story Sounds like it was more of a snow bridge collapsing than an avalanche as it sounds like they were in side the crevasses to negoatiate their path. Sorry to hear. My sympathy to friends and family.
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Ol' Willy Frist should just keep his mouth shut sometimes. I think that his heart isn't getting enough oxygen to his brain in his old age!
As reported in today's Washington Post, in the true spirit of
bipartisanship, members of Congress on both sides of the aisle have
decided that they will not follow the CDC guidelines, but will instead
go ahead and receive their flu shots, free of charge.
Your elected representatives still urge you to decline to get flu shots
so that others more in need, like themselves, will have an adequate
supply.
When pressed for an explanation, Senator (and Dr.) Bill Frist, the
leader of the Senate pointed out that, during the flu season,
Congressional representatives frequently receive large amounts of cash
from any number of lobbyists and that it is well-known that money often
serves as a medium for the transmission of germs and viruses.
As Dr. Frist explained, "There is simply no doubt that members of
Congress are, in fact, a high risk group, unlike your kids who come in
contact with dozens of other kids at school everyday."
In order to further reduce the risk to Congress, Washington lobbyists
apparently will also be receiving the shots.
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What is scary is there is a large possibility for there to be a tie in electoral votes at 269 to 269. If Bush wins a few of the swing states like Ohio and Florida, and Kerry wins the rest, then there will be a tie. Guess who casts the final vote then? The House, meaning GW another four more. Another election decided by someone other than the American people.
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Iain, with all the money I saved swtiching to Stoneworks, I've got some extra cash to burn. Can ya hook a brotha up?
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You have to pay extra for yoga!
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I've heard through the grapevine that someone (group) is starting just that. It will be basic, bouldering, some TR, wood panels, holds, etc. Almost like a co-op. If I find out more, I'll post it here. The best thing is it will be cheap!
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PRG sucks! They are way overpriced (3rd most expensive gym in the country), the bouldering routes blow, regardless of what they say, there is no exercise equipment - they've been saying they would have exercise equip. for over a year now. The Crux blows PRG out of the water and has amazing route setters, campus boards, finger boards, free weights, nautilus, stairmasters, and a restaurant.
I got fed up with PRG and now climb at Stoneworks. I live in North PDX and it takes me exactly 12 minutes from door to door after 7pm. It costs me $30/month, they already have the free weights and are getting nautilus machones upstairs, there are plenty of climbing girl candy every time I have been there since I joined (two weeks ago). And the route setters seem pretty cool as well. Why pay $60 for PRG? Price does not directly correlate to climbing improvement. There are some guys that crank over at Stoneworks! I've heard that if you want a social place but don't really care to climb, get a membership at PRG. If you want to stare at MILFs, go to Club Sport (although I know two guys who used to work there and they are .13 and .14 climbers now), and if you want to get strong fast, go to Stoneworks. They also don't rate any problems there so there is no bitching about where all the V2s and V3s are. If you can climb it do so, if not, quit whining and work harder!
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This is just normal and happens until you can build up calloses. This can even occassioanlly happen with callouses on really sharp holds. Just let the patches heal and your callouses will be strong and ready to crank!
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Was out in Enterprise on Wednesday for business and went to the brewery for some good eats and better beer. Heard a rumor that the bottling process may not be that far off, but you may want to ask Steve for more details.
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Defrinately bring firewood from home as all the palates around Terrebonne are gone (unless some were added this week) and they are charging $6.00 for 4-5 logs at the grocery store!
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SC, I am serious, we were trying to keep it down. I was pretty shocked when they came over the second time to tell us the cops had been called. We picked an area that was as far from any other campers as possible. The woman who came over must have been walking for at least a minute to get to us. How far away that is, I do not know. Anyways, it was unfortunate that it happened at all and I will be more aware next time just as I hope those women would be too. We learn from experience, it is just the firstt time that has ever happened. Again, the campground was not packed, we may have been a little loud when we pulled up, voices carry, but we quieted down, and if others started talking over each other, you would here a collective shushhh among the group. SC, you were not there, others who were stated that they did not hear a thing, maybe I/we were in the wrong and should have gone elsewhere and maybe they should have. I think people will just have to agree to disagree, and the partiers will need to be respectful of sleepers and sleeper should know that there may be some noise at the grasslands past 10pm.
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The sherriff just stated that he received a complaint from a hunter that there was a group who was making too much noise and wanted it to stop. There were only four of us outside at the time, the rest had gone to bed and he couldn't really say anything other than just to keep it down, which we were doing. Then we talked about deer hunting and the elk that were bugling between the ridges behind us.
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DFA, first off, I am not a trad climber, just pretend to be one. Anyone who redpoints three number grades higher on sport vs. trad should not be called a trad climber. I like to go in the alpine and have only once or twice been out trad cragging and that is usually on rest days down in the Lower Gorge.
As for the so called "crowd." When was the last time you were at Smith when there were more open sites than full sites during peak season. That was last weekend and if you think otherwise, maybe your age is catching up with you. We did tone it down the first time she came over, switched music from Hendrix to Van Morrison, and were talking using our normal voices from three feet away. How much more quiet should we have been? Maybe DFA is really a middle-aged woman in that group of ten women? They could have easily moved closer to the road. We were in the very back of the campground, trying to be considerate of others. The elk were louder than we were! They new there was a keg and 12 people coming over that night. They had every opportunity to move knowing that they may be effected by conversation from 60 yards away. My two cents.
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But how do you feel about people talking on cell phones up on Mt. Hood?
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The crazy thing was the first woman did not complain about the music, they said we were talking too loud!!!! I had four beers that night, so it wasn't really partying and I live in Portland and go down there on the weekends during the season, so I do respect others, just not when they are overly sensitive. I am not out there to accomodate others sensitive ears. if they know they need complete peace and quiet, it is not up to me to make them feel comfortable. No one else apparently seemed to have even heard us that night.
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We did offer them beer! That morning and that evening. We offered all of our neighbors to come over and a few we saw in the park that Saturday as well. We also invited the NOLS crew over because they had a climbing wall on the side of the bus.
what's up w/the PRG?
in Climbing Gyms
Posted
Kevin, you must not climb at SW very much otherwise you'd know that 1) they do not provide lead ropes either, you must bring your own. This is new for me as every gym I've climbed in both east and west coast provides them.
2)If you have been in SW anytime within the last two months, you would see the new equipment upstairs with more weights and cardio equipment on the way as they continue to refinish the "upstairs."