ryland_moore
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Posts posted by ryland_moore
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Yeah, I think I posted one that was titled Good GF Routes?
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Wait until Spring and solo South Side of Hood, then find a partner and head up to Muir to do the Ingraham Direct, depending on weather. Winter is too chancy for Rainier and you could spend your whole time out here in a whiteout. Or ,you could get lucky. Good winter route would be Gibraltar Ledges or Ingraham Direct.
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Sahale PEak via Sahale Arm (need to know how to rappel/downclimb or are comfortable soloing 4th class), Mount Adams South Side, Mount Shasta via Avalanche Gulch (there are others that are just as non-technical), and Mount Hood south side (although prob. not in when you go). If you do not feel comfortable with you and your partner in crevasse rescue then I highly recommend you brush up before you go.
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It's been a long time since you've been in Eugene as the Juice Bar moved shop over to the U of O climbing gym. Better yet, Ron opened up an awesome Hawaiian restaurant and the foor rocks!
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I saw a bumper sticker for this group at the White River TH this weekend. Kinda wondered what this group was about...
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Mike and Co. just ordered me Stubai aluminum crampons and they got them to me fast and at an excellent price. This is the way all companies should operate....
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We did the preregistration thing for Emmons/Sherman two weeks ago for this weekend at Sherman and the rangers were very helpful. Sorry you've been given the run-around. See ya up there on the mountain!
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I agree with Bill as well. One 30 m. 8.3 mm is what I use and is plenty on Rainier unless pitching it out. I have used a 30 m rope on Emmons and Ingraham Direct plenty of times. I did use a 50 m 8.8mm on Denali with three to a rope, however.
I guess you still need to factor in experience level and glacier conditions for end-running, but not at this time of year. Maybe in August up on Rainier you will have to do a lot of end running around crevasses.
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Buy one of those finger exercise hand grip strengtheners and keep it in your car. Every time you get in the car and drive somewhere, use it. It sounds funny, but does actually imrpove your grip strength.
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I have the Bibler Big Wall and I think it sucks. The opening is way too small (and I am 5'8" 155lbs.) and the zippers are small and bust off easily. I'd go with a wider oepning to get into an emergency shelter/lightweight. If I was in an emergency and needed to get into the thing quickly, I'd probably shred it before even getting in the thing.
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So was Smiffy! I've got raccoon eyes!
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There was a previous thread on this. Just go up there and find out. The ridges were said to be clear of snow so the if the couloir is out there are plenty of ways to either side to get around it by climbing 4th class to easy 5th rock. I think your only true obstacle is the road being washed out a mile before the TH.
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My buddy Gabe is out there solo right now looking for partners. He'll be out there all week. He will be climbing both sport and trad. Let me know if you need his contact info. You can PM me.
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Just made my SO my fiance after 4 years of dating. She will climb at Smith and the Callahans, but would never catch her up in the alpine of on ice. This is fine. We share some interests but not all interests. We have things that bring us together, but most importantly we have things we do separately that allows us to have things we can put our own energy into without our SO. This really works well for us. I agree with Muffy though. If the guy is a Dick, then you can't help that. If he's serious then maybe he wouldn't need to stare at another girls ass at a bar so much.
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I trekked around Patagonia, the circuit in Torres del Paine and then on to El Chalten fpr Fitzroy and Cerro Torre. Was there in early fall and had clear weather for almost two weeks with one day of rain/snow in Torres del Paine National Park. No corwds, hiking up into the Valleys with 3,000 ft granite spires surrounding you and not a sole around. Not a single climber in any of the infamous climbers camps like Poincenot around Cerro Torre and Fitzroy, but plenty o' sunshine for over a week! This was late March/Ealr April. Definately worth it. I was spent on climbing after slogging up volcanoes in Ecuador, Bolivia, and Argentina, and was into my fishing and backpacking mode. I don't have anything to compare it to in regards to other major mountain ranges, but want to go to the Himalaya. I was really impressed with the Alaska Range and would love to be in Little Switzerland for a while.
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Great Mike! Thanks for volunteering to be in charge and set this up! You're out of school now and exams are over, right! No excuses, Mikey is head hancho on this one! What time?
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Lost Rocks is a must. The difficulty is finding directions.....
Although I think the internet has changes this secret spot to a destination.
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Climber is alive and well but still trapped 30 ft. down in the "crevasse":
Rescue underway climber who fell into crevasse on Mt. Hood
01:25 PM PDT on Tuesday, May 18, 2004
By TERESA BELL, kgw.com Staff
GOVERNMENT CAMP, Ore. -- A climber is alive and awaiting help after falling 30 feet into a crevasse below Crater Rock, near the 9,600-foot-level on Mt. Hood early Tuesday, authorities said.
Rescuers identified the climber as Jeffrey Godfrey of Ventura, California.
An aerial view of Crater Rock on Mt. Hood. (File Photo)
"The medical team has reached the victim and apparently he has some facial abrasions and some groin injuries," said Sgt. Nick Watt, a spokesperson for the Clackamas County Sheriff's Office. "They are attempting to pull him out of the crevasse and get him down the mountain."
Godfrey told other climbers above him that he was not seriously hurt but was stranded about 30 feet inside the crevasse. Rescuers working to create a pulley system to lift him out feared that the 60-year-old man could develop hypothermia soon.
Temperatures are hovering at about 35 degrees and even though Godfrey said he thinks he’s okay, rescuers were considering airlifting him off the mountain as a precaution. However, as of 1 p.m., officials said the helicopter would not be able to make the flight, due to poor visibility.
Rescuers -- appearing as tiny dots in the snow -- work their way to the crevasse. (KGW Photo)
Godfrey has been inside the crevasse since about 7 a.m., when he broke through ice and fell, his climbing partner told dispatchers in the initial call for help early Tuesday.
Rescuers hope to get him out of the gaping hole between 1 and 2 p.m.
It's unknown how secure Godfrey's perch is inside the crevasse. Climbers often tie themselves to one another with ropes for added safety in slick conditions, but Godfrey was not tied to his partner when he fell, Watt said.
Rescue effort based at Timberline Lodge
Search and rescue teams set up a base of operations at Timberline Lodge and also put a helicopter crew with the Oregon Army National Guard Military Air Rescue Team, out of Salem, on standby for help if needed.
At about 9:30 a.m., rescuers began ascending the mountain after “scrambling to respond,” Watt said. They boarded a SnowCat to speed up the first stretch of the climb. The SnowCat took the team to the highest point it could reach, before dropping the climbers off to finish their trek on foot.
A SnowCat driver shuttled rescuers up the mountain. (KGW Photo)
From there, the specially trained climbers carefully began making their way to the crevasse area, according to Angie Brandenburg, a spokesperson with the Clackamas County Sheriff’s Office.
They reached the crevasse before noon.
Meantime, the Blackhawk crew was on its way to Mt. Hood as of 12:30 p.m., but turned back a short time later, due to poor visibility. Rescuers plan to evaluate Godfrey's condition once they pull him out of the crevasse and decide the safest way to get him off the mountain.
They could choose to walk with Godfrey, carry him on a stretcher, or even set up camp and wait out the storm before heading down.
Dangerous time of year on Mt. Hood
This is the same time of the year when three climbers fell to their death two years ago and dozens of others were injured in what turned out to be one of the deadliest climbing mishaps ever on Mt. Hood.
This map shows Crater Rock, in relation to the 2002 accident scene. (kgw.com graphic)
A total of nine climbers were swept into a 50-foot wide and 20-foot deep crevasse, known as the Bergschrund, early in the morning on May 30th, 2002. The others were injured while sliding on the sheer ice, tied to other climbers.
Rescue efforts on that day also took a dramatic turn when a Blackhawk crew trying to reach the survivors crashed nearby. All six members of the helicopter crew survived, but one person was critically injured.
Weather conditions impact rescuers & climbers
Crevasses on the mountain often crack open this time of year, experts say, as the warmer weather slowly begins to melt thick ice formed on the sheer mountainside.
Also Online
More details about deadly 2002 accident on Mt. Hood
The military helicopter team is specially trained in high elevation rescues and has safely airlifted several injured climbers off Mt. Hood in the past. But Tuesday morning, visibility was extremely poor on the mountain, so the Blackhawk may not be able to safely fly at the elevation where Godfrey fell.
“There’s kind of cloudy conditions up there right now but certainly we can use air assets up there... if we can first get this guy out of the crevasse," Brandenburg said.
Sky-8 captured the crash of the Blackhawk on Mt. Hood on live television. (KGW File Photo)
KGW meteorologist Dave Salesky said conditions were foggy and cloudy Tuesday morning, but skies could clear in the afternoon.
However, if there is a break in the weather, he said the window won’t last long.
If rescuers can't pull Godfrey out of the crevasse by early Tuesday afternoon, the rescue effort will probably become much more difficult, as weather conditions grow dramatically worse.
Salesky said the forecast calls for mostly cloudy skies with thunder showers late Tuesday and up to four inches of new snow expected in the next 24 hours.
Godfrey was reportedly following a popular climbing route through the White River Canyon when he slipped and fell.
Mount Rainier rescue
Monday night, another military helicopter crew airlifted an injured climber off the north slope of Mount Rainier. But sadly, he died at the hospital a short time later.
An injured Mt. Rainier climber is lifted into an Oregon National Guard helicopter. (KING Photo)
Peter Cooley, 39, of Cape Elizabeth, Maine, was rescued from the 12,300 foot level of the 14,410-foot mountain. He suffered a head injury while climbing on Saturday, but had to wait two days for the rescue due to his precarious position on the mountain and rough weather conditions.
Cooley had been reported in stable condition late Monday afternoon after the rescue effort, but his condition quickly deteriorated and he died Monday night, Mount Rainier National Park spokeswoman Patti Wold said.
Cooley's climbing partner, Scott Richards, 42, and rescuers got off the mountain safely Tuesday.
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Anyone heard from Iain? Maybe he is out saving another life!
to Iaian and best luck to the man in the "crevasse" -
Already a thread on this here
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Heard this morning that a 60-year old man fell into a crevasse below crater rock? I didn't know there were any that large around there. Initial reports are that the group has not had contact with him since hew fell in and that Clackamas County rescuers and the National Guard would be assisting in the rescue. Hope he is well.
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Thanks MattP yes, that is correct, my bad.....I think Ryland Moore is describing Canary, not Midway. -
Yes Midway ledge is huge. There are anchors off to the right when you get to the top of the pitch. If she is too scared to do the second pitch (the step across move) then there is an easy and I mean easy finish straight up from the anchors (maybe 5.4 or 5.5) in the "gulley". There is a spot for pro before the step across on the corner under the roof up about 7 ft high. The move is easier than it looks and as soon as you pull up onto the step above the move and out onto the face there is a bolt.
Feathered friends or freaks?
in Local Gear Shops
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Maybe he was in disbelief after looking at your fat-ass friend wondering why he was in a real climbing store rather than next door at REI. It does sound like you are describing Todd and he has always helped me out and is one bad ass ice climber to boot.