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ryland_moore

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Posts posted by ryland_moore

  1. Maybe take her into Tumwater first where multi-pitch stances can be had where there are huge ledges and one may feel more comfortable standing. Then take her to Givler's where the belay flacke is really only 30 or 40 fett off the ground. She may like starting out on the ledge around to the right and back up where there is a tree anchor. If you start the first pitch there it is even a shorter first pitch. ALso, to make her feel more comfortable, it may be nice to have or borrow a set of talk abouts as you cannot here the leadder at the top on when to start heading up the 2nd pitch.

  2. I did not read this but watched it come from Stone Phillips mouth. I looked for the dialogue for this written out but have yet to find it. To paraphrase, it stated that once believed to be true was that the family was shipped out of the country during the no-fly period. They stated that the military did fly the bin Laden family (gathering them from all over the country) to interrogate them to see if they knew anything or had any connections with Osama. This happened I believe around the 13th or 14th. It was not on the 11th, as I recall. Then after checks on each individual, interrogation, and questioning occurred, Phillips stated that they were then sent to Saudi Arabia on the 20th. He also stated that the 9/11 commission, after findingmore details out recently, requested another search by the CIA to determine if any of the relatives who were sent out of the country have turned up on the intelligence radar since 9/11 for terrorism acts or are new suspects. None of them are. I am jujst reporting what I watched as my jaw dropped. I was kind of pissed, as I find NBC to be a fairly reputable source, and I now had to question Moore's statements.

  3. Watch or purchase Dateline NBC's, "Michael Moore's Fahrenheit 9/11" which aired on May 6th, 2004. In this they discovered that Michael Moore was in fact lying or as he puts it, "may have gotten some of the dates mixed up." The bin Laden's never flew out of the US until Sept. 20th and all of them were herded up by the govt. prior to that for questioning and to determine if they had any ties to Osama. Nothing more.

     

    I am actually glad the govt. was getting all the folks together as soon as possible. What if one of the family members was a part of it? Bout the only correct thing the Bush Administration has done in the last 4 years...

  4. JoshK and others,

     

    I love Michael Moore and his tactics of bringing out the truth. However, in his latest book and documentary regarding ties between the Bush's and Bin Laden, I was very dissappointed to hear that Moore got his facts wrong as to the timing of the Bin Laden's flying out of the US during September of 2001. He reported that the Bin Laden family was flying when all planes were grounded. This is simply not true. Let me state that I am a Democrat and cannot stand Bush. But, when Moore knowingly lies or misrepresents the truth for sensationalism, it does nothing for what he is trying to promote. The truth is that the Bind Laden family were not allowed to fly until after the no-fly ban was lifted and then every individual on those private flights were researched by the FBI and CIA to determine if any of them have ever had ties to Osama. After everyone was cleared and allowed to fly, and after the 9/11 commission came back recently, another check was done on every single one of those passengers to see if they had come back up on the radar screen since that time. No links between the bin laden family members who flew out of the US and Osama have risen since 2001 as well.

     

    Again I praise Michael for what he is doing, I just think that he needs to only bring out the truth instead of trying to rely on sensationalism and shock-value to get people's attentions when they are not true. If he continues to do this, he will lose credit and people cannot take his word at face value, which before I had no problem doing.

  5. Everyone recs. the standards. That is all I've done. Durrance and Solar. Have fun, it is awesome. Did the traverse pitches and above at night. Pretty cool to descend in the dark. One thing to be careful of is getting your double ropes stuck when pulling your rap. Those cracks love to suck in knots! There is a cheap guidebook (yellow paperback) that you can get at the visitor's center. It isn't very long and if you want me to photocopy some of it for you I can send it your way. Just PM me. The 5.6 second pitch is considered by some to be one of the hardest 5.6 cracks in the country. Don't know if this is true, but I thought it was the hardest cracks I've ever followed. We had 2 #5 HB cams for this and 2 #4 HB cams and it protected well. If you do the DUrrance link the 5.5 pitches (before the traverse) together into one pitch to save time.

  6. Think if this had actually come out prior to the governor's race! We could have had Norma Paulus as the governor. Not that that would have been bad either. How something like this can have such a huge affect in one's life!

     

    I find it ironic that a lot of people who praise him in the past for all the wonderful things he's done are turning their heads on him and are against him. Yes, what he did was bad and wrong, but that still does not change all of the amazing things he brought to Oregon. Wonder what Portland's downtown, mass transit system, and cleaning up of neighborhoods would be like now if he had not been mayor and/or governor?

  7. I agree on CMC although it takes longer to get there. I rec. finding or borrowing a canoe from someone although you can hike it. You can also run up South and Middle in a day. Petzholdt over Exum just because of crowds and waiting at belay stations. There is only one way I know of to bail off the Upper Exum while on route and it is tough. If you do decide to do the OS. Instead of doing the "belly crawl" there is a really cool chimney that goes at 5.8 but is well protected and has a few fixed pins in it. This variation can help to justify climbing OS route and can save time instead of waiting in line to cross the belly crawl.

     

    Permits can be hard to come by for lower saddle and sometimes even the Moraine. You may even want to camp at the ranger station porch. As for time, when are you going? Alot of snow still up there according to a few friends in Jackson. Also see this thread and this one . Now do your own search on cc.com. There are plenty of discussions about this very topic. Have fun!

  8. Used a megamid on Denali last year and thanked God every day we had one. We made plenty of friends during bad weather (read not windy). It fit a lot of folks comfortably but I would probably pass on one if you didn't have snow that you could dig down to make benches and cooking platforms out of. The mid was stable even during semi-windy (20-30mph gusts) weather with large snow blocks holding down the sides as well as building them up. We just collapsed the mid each night and set it back up each morning.

  9. That;s why you have to import them from other parts of the country. One's from out here carry too much baggage. Might be a good way to provide incentive for training and climbing!

  10. With a group of boy scouts, it might save several hours if camping above the top of the Palmer or even just below the outcrop to the SE of Crater Rock. Plus, it would probably feel more like an expedition if they are camped up on the mountain rather than near a parking lot. Have any of them camped over 9,000'? For those who may struggle, it will make summit day easier for those not in the best of shape.

     

    However, I know that Timberline tries to discourage those camping on the S. Side as it is definately considered a day trip. Make it fun for them, and they are more likely to delve into mountaineering a little deeper. Have fun.

  11. Doing that all in a day is amazing enough, but has anyone done all these peaks in a single trip? Start with complete north ridge and then dragontail and colchuck, Prussik, and then what about extending that to the rest of the peaks by Prussik? Then hit snow creek wall on the way out. Probably more likely a 3-4 day trip for me but that would be an awesome traverse! Anyone done it?

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