ryland_moore
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Posts posted by ryland_moore
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To my knowledge DFA does not post under any other name, at least the ones originally mentioned, since I know most of those guys and DFA as well and they are not him. Ironically, if you knew him it would be tough to miss him! DFA, I think it is awesome you have been able to keep your identity under raps for so long. The only way I found out was from a climbing buddy at PRG who doesn't even post on this site......Keep it up.
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There was a Japanese climber known as the Japanese Caribou who would spend days in a meat locker with no light and practice putting on all gear, fixing skis/bindings, cooking and taking apart and putting back together stove, and doing daily chores in preparation for a winter solo ascent of Denali.
The most I've done is bring a pack into 24-hour fitness 4 times a week and load them up with a down jacket and two 35 lb. weights and get on the stairmaster for an hour to train for Denali. I did get weird looks, but plenty of girls came up to ask what I was doing too! The staff said it was o.k. as long as I didn't steal their equipment. Never thought I looked like a crook!
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Poison Ivy is on the east coast while Poison Oak is on the west. Some contest that poison Oak is more serious and people are more allergic to poison oak. That being said, if you can avoid treating it with steroids and let your body deal with it, you may be able to build up a tolerance or defense. I had a friend in Eugene who ate poison oak. She got it really bad and in her throat and lasted about a month. That was fifteen years ago and now she works in the woods all yearand can handle it physically without any reaction.
I still get it every year while turkey hunting when the leaves and toxins are fresh. I carry TechNu with me and put it on my clothes after I leave the woods, but still manage to get it. I only go to the steroids if it gets to the nether regions.
Also, if you know you have come into contact with it, find water immediately and gently wipe off the exposed skin in cool water. The toxins are like little bubbles. They break open and are absorbed through the skin. If you can be really careful and not touch the area that came in contact, you have a chance of not breaking open the toxin bubbles and can get it off of you in time. But, the toxin bubbles are easily opened. Sweat dripping on the skin is strong enough to open them up, hence you have to get to water fast.
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There is one that Erik and I saw when we didn't look at the topo for W. Ridge of STuart and just climbed the Ridge proper from the base. Above three pitches of Class IV scrambling and we climbed right to it. Then when we crossed through to the other side, we looked down and saw where climbers were coming up the gulley and we realized we were off route. It is about 3x the size of the one telemarker posted above. No pics though.
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Thanks for the clarification, Jason. I guess it makes sense regarding above and below standards, but I would look at Clint's climbing resume and say it is WAAAAY below standard. He may have the personal skills, and even his WFR and Avi I, but it is hard to teach experience like weather patterns, snow conditions, subtle signs that clients might be giving you, that you've never experienced in the mountains becasue you haven't been there that long. Someone who has been climbing a lot for several years and been out in all types of conditions with different partners on rock, alpine, glaciers, and ice would have a much deeper perspective than someone like Clint who has been on Rainier 3 times in summer conditions. If the guide services are willing to train people like that, then more power to them, becasue they can be assured the newbie guid was trained by one of their own whom they trust, if not and you need these skills prior to coming on, then that is what I was referring to. Not to dis you Clint, becasue I think it is wonderful that you are setting this goal and want to achieve it, but from what I've read, don't go in there expecting to be hired, when from the outside, you may need a few more seasons. I'd say if you make it, awesome. I am sure it will be years you will remember forever. If you don't, then keep trying as you seem to have the drive and desire to teach.
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Clint, I'd say go get more experience. If I knew my guide (if I ever used one) had only climbed Rainier via the dog routes a couple times and that was the extent of his experience, I'd be a little leery on going with that company. I thought most guides had to be able to lead 5.10 trad solid, climb WI4+ on lead, know high angle rescue situations, be AMGA cert., and have considerable experience in the Cascades, AK, Andes, and/or Eurpoe and the Himalayas.
I have climbed all over the cascades, AK, and the Andes, plus countless road trips for rock and ice climbing, but would not consider myself to be guide material. I think Clint is a little premature, or am I wrong? If so, then I will look at guide companies in a whole new light taking on someone as inexperienced as Clint unless they have some mentor program for several years that you work up to and are a grunt for a while shadowing senior guides in different environments than trenched out dog routes on the Emmons of DC.
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I think the bigger concern would be that Stein's Pillar was rap bolted in Ochoco National Forest. While not illegal to bolt in National Forest lands unless expressly stated, it does a disservice to the climbing community as a whole if hikers and other groups (Native Americans!) feel that climbers trashed the area.....
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There has been some attempt to keep beta spread word of mouth and not have a published guide book. I can understand this POV as onsighting the cracks here, imagining FA's if only in my head, has been some of the most enjoyable climbing I've done in nearly 2 decades.
Ah, but Wimsey, there is a "guidebook" although not formally published.........
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I use the Beal Rando but you can also get it in a 40m if I am not mistaken.
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No, just the opposite! That is an awesome time to climb in Ecuador and Bolivia. Peru is a different story, as their best climbing season is in their winter.
Go jump on the Ecuadorian volcanoes like El Cayembe, Cotopaxi, and Chimborazo. Have fun! December is also prime for Aconcagua.
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Got 'em and love 'em.
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I have met a lot of climbers from all over the country and it seems that a lot of climbers were either geeky growing up or not very atheletic (ie. stoners). Very few were jocks. I think I may notice this more because I was huge into team sports growing up and playing soccer all the way through college and was a dick to people different than me, which I regret now. Climbing turned me on because it was like wrestling in that you pushed yourself and no one else could be blamed if you failed. Coupled with the fact that my dad took me hiking, hunting, and fishing, which developed my land ethic and wanting to be in beautiful places.
I don't think being a jock necessarily makes me a better climber than someone who was not atheletic growing up. I actually think I am a terrible climber compared to how much time and training I've put into it compared to other things I've participated in.
As for the jobs thing, I don't necessarily think it has to do with income as most of the best climbers are dumpster diving and living out of their van down by the river. Remember that we are still a minute portion of the population and if you compared high income to what those people do with their money, I guarantee climbing does not make the grade when compared to golf, tennis, skiing, mountain biking, triathlons, bicycling, canoeing, and hiking.
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I wish I had the opportunity to climb Rainier at that age, but growing up in Roanoke, Va. I had little opportunity. I actually climbed the Tetons (lived in Jackson during summer breaks from college), Ecuadorian volcanoes, in the Cordillera Blanca, and Aconcagua before I ever set foot on Rainier. But, I've moved out here and don't see myself moving back. Watch out it may happen to you as well! I am sure there are some climbers your age. I am an old man at 29........
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It's called Brunswick Stew and can be made with either squirrel or rabbit. It is actually really good, although I've never had it from a citified squirrel, only wild ones. I would pick one or two off occassionally when out hunting grouse back in Virginia. Although, I do not think Clintoris would be as successful as he has if he were shooting at wild squirrels. You will rarely see them walking through the woods when outside urban areas. They are smart, will lie flat on top of tree branches and are quite difficult. I would have shot more while hunting if I could, but you rarely see them. Only occassionally would I catch one on the ground and then watch what branch they would run out to. They would be lying flat, but I would know where they were and into the stew they would go.....
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Actually, Sobo is right.
And you parents essentially committed fraud.
It's not fraud if the parents are acting as the "guardian" of the account. We have two accounts set up for our boy Nicholas, and he turned 3 years old last Sunday. We are the "responsible party" for any "debt" that he may incur.
Sobo is right. Since a minor cannot legally sign a contract, they could simply incur the debt and then refuse to pay it, so a guardian is required for this. Plus, I had to have a savings account, which I opened with lawn mowing money and other funds held in trust.
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Sobo, I will disagree with you that keeping CC open with zero balances will hurt your credit score. As long as you don't have 5 or 6 cards open with zero balances, leaving a cc or 2 open while carrying a zero balance proves to a lender that you have the ability to manage credit and will reflect positively on your score. For example, my parents opened a credit card in my name when I was 10 years old to build my credit so that by the time I was responsible enough to have my own credit card, I would be blessed with a higher credit score and lower interest. They carried a zero balance on it the entire time and my credit score increased during that period of time.
Actually, Sobo is right.
And you parents essentially committed fraud.
Arch,
To hell they committed fraud! Any minor can obtain a credit card with a parent's consent. They did not use the card for their own benefit, just got me a card, which I signed for and applied legally for. I hope you are not a financial advisor or in finance! Go back and get a real MBA. Phoenix online does not count......
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Sobo, I will disagree with you that keeping CC open with zero balances will hurt your credit score. As long as you don't have 5 or 6 cards open with zero balances, leaving a cc or 2 open while carrying a zero balance proves to a lender that you have the ability to manage credit and will reflect positively on your score. For example, my parents opened a credit card in my name when I was 10 years old to build my credit so that by the time I was responsible enough to have my own credit card, I would be blessed with a higher credit score and lower interest. They carried a zero balance on it the entire time and my credit score increased during that period of time.
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No wonder Crampon is having so much trouble finding a significant other...........
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He brought ropes to rappel with and it is quite steep heading to the summit at around 65 degrees. He said that if the snow did melt out it would really suck, so just eye it when you get up there. There is kind of a point of no return and yopu have to come back down the way you go up. Doesn't sound too fun if there is no snow. Still waiting on the pics I viewed.
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Crampon, you can't be serious. When have you ever travelled on a glacier slog without coils while actually being tied into a rope? Don't cut your 50 m rope. Just go buy a Beal or BD 30m glacier rope. They are like $50.00. I travel with a 30m with three people max. It still give you about 25-30 ft between climbers and plenty for pulling someone out with your coils.
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A buddy of mine climbed N. Ridge of N. Sister solo two weeks ago and saif it was awesome with two tools and perfect cramponing along a a sweet line. He trundled inadvertantly on the way down, but said that that upper section is some of the best snow he's ever played on. He and a friend scouted out the line the day before in a plane to see what kind of condition it was in. I'll see if I can get some of the photos and post them here.
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You can always do a 4th class scramble to the left if you can't make it up the couloir and it is a little run-out. Also, on the descent, finding rap anchors (webbing) can be tough as alot of the anchors left by other parties are too high off the current snow level to reach. Look for other area to set anchors or look at coming down the SW side. There is supposed to be another descent option. Maybe E. Ridge as well? Look back from 2003 summer and see what was discussed on this topic.
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I am sure it could be done. However, I could only see the lower Winthrop from up high and at an angle. The Winthrop just below camp before disappearing by the Prow lookd really broken up. So, it may actually take longer to come up the Winthrop to camp then head back over St. Elmo's Pass, up the Inter, and over the Prow to Schurman, depending on how much end-running of crevasses you'd have to do. Also, if someone was just planning on doing the Emmons, they may not have the gear required to go through an "icefall" (if you would even call it that) like tools and a few screws. It would be a cool area to explore though!! Also, I am not positive, but do not think that Curtis Ridge has seen an ascent yet. Looks like if it was rimed up well, it could go like a Yocum Ridge type of deal but on a 14k peak. Could be pretty cool!
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You are correct. We went through Camp Curtis, not over Curtis Ridge. There was a party that left the parking lot before us and went up the Inter glacier and we beat them to Schurman, so it can be faster. Although, when the Interglacier is in good glissading condition, there is no way it would be faster to descend around Mt. Ruth then glissading Inter glacier. Also, the NPS does not like to send people over Mt. Ruth becasue of some rare alpine plants that can be greatly affeced by increased foot traffic to this area and discourage anyone from going this way unless safety is a factor.
Softshells - below freezing
in The Gear Critic
Posted
I loved my Cloudveil jacket when living in Jackson and it did well for me on Denali when temps were cold and dry. It works alright out here too. Just don't take it on a N. Cascades approach to an obscure peak as devil's club and slide alder have a way at grabbing the stitching and causing runs.