ryland_moore

Southerners like myself hold plenty of things sacred other than chicken........our Bourbon, (no not you Ray) our greens, our barbeque (not what you do with burgers and dogs on the grill), and southern belles. Then there are rednecks from the south who hold things sacred like the sheep and cows on daddy's farm , and their sweet sister and their hot cousins! Heehhhawww!

It is for other countries. What do you do when in the Andes on a peak less than 6K m.? It helps with those and all costs prior to hospitalization. It is for rescue efforts in general. In many countries, this may not involve a helicopter but sending a military group up to rescue you and getting you out. I think it also pays to get your body (morbid thought) out of a country and back home. I hope no one ever has to deal with this, but let me tell you from experience (not a climbing accident - a friend passed away in Panama), that when someone dies in a underdeveloped country, it is quite difficult to get the deceased out in any sort of descent time - at least one that would afford a descent burial ceremony. I think they may even help with logistics in this matter.

I am a member of AAC and although it breaks my wallet every year, I continue to support them. Not b/c of theCascades section, but because of other tools such as the library, the books (journal and accidents), and the insurance. They used to have qualifications as to who could join determined by your climbing resume, but that has changed. Also, don't forget about the grants they offer. I road the NAVIMAG ship up through the fjords of Patagonian Chile 3 years ago and saw a group of Coastal mountains (4-6K feet)on these islands off the coast. I was thinking of doing a trip there and sea kayaking out to a group of islands to climb some FAs where the mountains are not even completely mapped, and those that are are named by elevation. Of course, I never did the trip, but still have it in the back of my mind. The climbs would be pretty non-technical but the approach would be the most dangerous. I called AAC and they said that that was exactly the type of trip they look to fund. Anyways, I would like to see the Cascades section more active and may drop my membership if I become complacent with them, but for now I am satisfied and can justify the $75.

I resole when my toes bust out. Alot of resolers have trouble with this, so just send them to The Rubber Room and they will be as good as new. Oh yeah, did Erik mention practicing footwork to ensure that your shoes last longer? If not, practice your footwork.

Was with a partner at Foster Falls in TN and he was just ready to start climbing. The he climb followed a nice arrete, but the first bolt (yaeh it was sport) was about 5 ft. above this ledge and the ledge was about 40 ft. off the ground. The belay spot sucked and there were no anchors. I tied a sling to a tree with a biner and was going to clip it into the back of my harness. Well, my partner started to climb as I was setting up the anchor, and I turned around to see him doing the first few moves to the first bolt. I quickly put him on belay and reached around behind me to clip into my harness. Well, he fell above the second bolt and so I braced to catch the fall, but when his weight came to me I felt something break on my harness and I started getting pulled to the lip of the ledge as my partner continued to fall. Finally, I was able to stop the fall and my hand got caught in the belay device (piece of skin b/w thumb and forefinger). Turns out that what I had clipped into was not the anchor webbing on the back of my harness, but a little piece of plastic theat held my leg straps in the back! Many lessons learned that day.

Only if I get your climbing partners this weekend!

BCollins stated that he would leave behind axe and crampons if using the Mountaineers Creek appraoch, but what about the snow conditions on false summit heading over to Cascadian couloir? Would you bring an axe all the way up for this section on the descent? Lambone?

A few years ago at Tennessee Wall, my partner and I were looking to do a warm-up on Jay Walker 5.7. As we came around a corner, we saw that there was a rope hanging on the climb, but no climbers around. We heard some voices around another corner, walked over there and saw three guys in cut-off jean shorts, wife beaters, a couple beers, and bilboard hats stating things like <"Possum, the other white meat." We asked if the rope was theirs, and they said yes. As my partner and I looked at the rope -grey in color, dirty, and with plenty of nicks, we asked them what kind of rope they were using. The skinny little guy with only a few more teeth then his buddies replied, "Aw, that's tree climbin' rope. When we damage the ropes with the chainsaw as we're cuttin' trees down, the bossman just gives 'em to us." We asked if they were going to be on the route much longer, and they replied," You can just use our rope if ya 'ont to." We said that we were really heading down the Wall a little further as we had our eye on another climb, but thanked them anyway. Never heard of any accidents that day up at T-Wall. Although Recreational Darwinism was in full effect that day!

They are considered a fixed wing, but I am not sure if it is illegal to fly over a national park, they are just not allowed to land in one. In the Tetons, plenty of paragliders fly off the mountains (see glider planes flying a few hundred feet off the summits too), but if they land in the park, their gear is confiscated. I wouldn't think that if you flew off of a mountain in the NCNP and landed in say the Pasayten, that you would get in trouble.

I have thought about this too! I took some lessons when I lived in Wyoming and loved it, but never flew off anything higher than around 8,000' (not too far above the valley floor at 7,000')Especially the volcanoes would seem to be ideal launches. They would allow for multiple directions to launch from. Let me know whatcha find out!

Is the approach to the N. Ridge of Stuart still closed from the North? If so, then what would one have to do to ascend the entire N. Ridge of STuart. What is it like descending the STuart glaceir to get to the base of the North Ridge? Is this feasible or worth while? Time involved? Have heard it was a nightmare and to jsut ascend from the notch and not worry about this. Erik, any suggestions? Cavey?

1) You will need to get permits from the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. Very difficult this time of year since August is the peak climbing month in the Tetons. Plan on camping on the front porch the night before to get your permit and stay as long as you can. Try and get a permit for the Lower Saddle. If this is full get a permit for the Moraine. If you plan on climbing S. or Middle Teton, Cloudveil, etc. Then stay at the Meadows. Much longer approach for the Grand but offers easier access for other mountains in the area. If the Lower Saddle is full, think about a permit for the Meadows the first night or two, climb some other peaks, and then get a permit for the Lower Saddle next. It breaks up the approach, which can be hell if you are carrying full packs and planning on being up there for a while. 2) Think about doing the Petzholt Ridge instead of Exum Ridge. Same degree of difficulty with a lot less traffic. Next ridge to the right (East) of Exum. If you are planning on climbing Owen Spalding, skip the "belly crawl and the bottleneck created by guide services and head up the chimney jsut before it (5.9) with fps in the cracks. Fun, but short pitch (50ft.). 3) Snafflehounds are worse on lower saddle, Moraine, and Meadows than Boston Basin! No way to really hang your food except some large sticks that people have carried that you must balance with large rocks on top of huge boulders and hang bags off the side. Marmots are large and can grab the bags and they are experts at getting on top of boulders and knocking the large sticks (4 ft. long, 2-3 in. diameter)down to get at food. Make sure the boulder you are using has at least a V2 problem as easiest access to the top or snafflehounds will dine on your horsecock for sure Don't worry about bears. In the entire 3 years I lived there, I only heard of one black bear near the meadows and he was pretty harmless. They aren't huge fans of late summer alpine areas where very little food or water exists. 3)If you climb in the Tetons and don't go to Death Canyon and jump on some of the classics like Caveat Emptor or The Snaz, then you might as well not go (personal opinion). Also, think about doing the CMC on Moran (not Moron). Classic line with the best high camp in the Tetons. Some use a canoe (preferable) to get across the lake, but you can hike around it too. 4)After your climb, go to Moose, walk into Dornan's, go upstairs on the porch, get a nice Teton ALe or something from Otto Brothers and watch the sun set behind the Tetons. It is good if you can time this when Steam Powered Airplane is playing (local bluegrass band with a guitar player who won best picker at the Telluride Festival 3 years ago.) They sometimes play at the Silver Dollar Bar and Grill on Broadway near the town square. Have a blast!

May have missed a discussion on this previously, but anyone have any recs on types of bindings that work well with plastics (I have Artic Expes)? What about the Silveretta 500s? Bindings to stay away from? Any help would be beneficial. Also, those who have used AT gear on Denali, what recs or do's and dont's do you have? Tricks of the trade? Have a safe and crankin' weekend!

Where were ya last weekend, Mwills? Sorry, booked this weekend, but may be able to help the following.

aGREE WITH Tim, we checked the weather as well and it said clear skies for Sunday in Marblemount, Mazama, Bellingham, Concrete, and Diablo. If that is not checking the weather report, then what is? Jim, obviously you didn't check it because you were sitting on your ass surfing the tube while waiting for Sponge Bob to entertain you! As for the cell thing, what if they didn't have it, the storm had stayed for days, and something more serious, god forbid, had happened. I don't think 'Bone is the type of climber who takes the cell with the intension of using it to bail when his thumper legs start acting up, unlike your climbing partners, Jim. Why else would you have such a bad taste for it unless you experienced these actions first hand? I guess I am judging you when I don't even know you, but feel that is how you are acting on this post towards 'Bone. So, get off yo ass, get out and climb somethin' instead of spraying folks who were in an austere predicament while you sat cosily on your couch eating ho-hos and playing with yourself. What goes around, comes around.

Don't get me wrong, Eugene is the worst place I have lived for accessibility to excellent climbing, except maybe for SOuthwestern Virginia, where I lived for 18 years (NR Gorge was 3 hrs, Stone Mountain, NC 3 hrs). After living in the Cumberland Plateau region, TN for four years and in Jackson, WY for 3 years, I still feel that Oregon has more diverse opportunities than living in areas where I could climb 150' sandstone bluffs on my own property, or bike out to GTNP and hike up into Death Canyon in a matter of a few hours. You may have to drive to get there, but for urban life, ease of gettting out (don't have to drive an hour to get out of the City), and the diverse climbing (sport, bouldering, alpine, glacier, ice, backcountry skiing), you'd be hard pressed to find a better spot in the US. The spots may not be at your back door, but offer many options if you are willing to drive a little further. My two cents.

I reiterate Erik's points. Communication is huge and simul climbing is not the time to overcommit yourself or your partner. Moving fluidly will come from practice. If you are climbing near your ability while simul-climbing, then you may end up moving slower than if you had just pitched it out.

Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.

What's going on? What are you up to RURP?

Naked women and climbing. All I need is Erik's pabst and I am in Heaven

Definately PDX over Seattle. Seattle is just getting too big. But, I prefer smaller towns. And as for the N.Cascades driving. I will drive to the N.Cascades everyweekend during the summer jsut to climb one day if need be. Yeah, it takes 6 hours one way, but it beats living in the mid-west. There are some tough sport climbing/trad climbing crags throughout Oregon now, with many of the areas just being developed. Smith is obvious, but places around Portland, Eugene, along the Coast, and in the SOuthern Willamette Valley are sprouting up monthly it seems. I have now heard of three new areas being developed in the last two weeks within an hour of Eugene for bouldering and sport. As for alpine, OR rock sucks. Must go to the N. Cascades. I look at it that I am around 10 hours N. of the Sierras and 6 hours South of the N. Cascades, so if I want, I could take a long weekend and get down there without much hassle.

Got rained out of Cutthroat South Butt. Hiked up to the gully, and the rock was pretty wet. Bailed and headed over to Index, praying we could climb something. No chance. The Lizard was dripping wet! I hate looking at weather reports and seeing sun, only to be fooled. It wasn't like this was a localized system. It probably was raining in Squamish and the rain and clouds didn't let up South till Vancouver, WA. Once I crossed the Oregon border, it was bluebird skies! I thought I should have gone to Smith, but later found out that Highway 20 was closed near Sisters due to Forest Fires, so, I would have had hassles there too! There's always next weekend!

Yeah, Sorry to hear about your friend, Erik. When we talked to the rescuers on Sunday morning, it sounded pretty bad. But they said that he was strong and was in stable condition. I look at it as the glass is half full. On another note, two of the rescuers from Swift lost about $1,000 worht of gear as the helicopter pilot through their packs out the chopper and down the South Butt. They were up there looking for it yesterday, but don't know if they found it. So, if any of you find it, it would behoove you to return it to the rightful owners, unless you want to have bad karma looming over you every time you get up on the sharp end. They worked for Mountain Rescue. Can't remember their names. Hell, I wouldn't want to climb on gear that had taken over a 1,000' fall. Be safe out there.

Highlander, e-mail me at rylandmoore@hotmail.com or call 541-345-2799 ext. 112.

What about the slog up South Spur of Adams? That would seem to be an easy choice for a day "hike" and get some elevation under the belt.