Dru

HEY LADIES! I'M BROKE!!!!!

I will let you know on Tuesday next week.

don't forget the

you think they will sponsor me for some subaru alpinism?

what do you call that? a pack? herd? flock? pod? gaggle?

anybody ever climb those ice gullies on the n face of the pleiades? i know they were climbed back in the 1950's but they look pretty good from slesse and wondering what a modern ascent of them is like.

unfortunately it was a passenger plane full of people instead a smuggling plane full of weed also it hit the peak in 1956 i believe fred beckey first climbed the ne buttress while searching for a suitcase with $60 grand, known to be in the possession of a business man on the flight, which has never been reported found

I was thinking of "Texas Route Finding Skills" naw the route is called Flight 810 after the Trans Canada Airlines plane that hit the peak. The plane crash site point of impact is very close to where we topped out.

see attachment - highlighted the climbers

Sorry to divert this thread a bit, but this is why I believe you see such a big bunch of computer and science geek types engaging in rock climbing. The cool jocks in high school were usually the ones with the coordination, speed and reaction time necessary for most of the "ball" sports. The geeks needed to focus on other things like science, computers and sh*t, ..................until they discovered rock climbing and peak bagging. Mentioning coordination, Stimson was a boxing champ in college. His book River Dark and Bright (Willows Press) is a fascinating read. Here's a great quote from his memoir: One notion grew to become a fixed conviction: that you should strive to fulfill your own potential. You should try to put out all your energies in pursuit of your ends so that you go to the junkyard with no gas left in your tank. This man is a role model for all who intend to live beyond their youth. Hey pope you mean its OK to sport climb when you're 85???

right on

This is the route photo from last year. Left skyline up to the white peak in the middle. or see Alpine Select p. 273 - left buttress. Not well shown in red Beckey.

So Fern and I went in and finished off this route "Flight 810 Buttress" Capt. Caveman and I had tried last year. We climbed up the South Spur Couloir higher than Ray and I had and climbed 1 pitch up a 5.8 moss chimney to gain the Kubik/Soet ledges. Traversed to pt. Ray and I had bailed from. Climbed ~8 pitches from 3rd class to 5.8 to the sub summit of 4 gendarmes, between the 2nd and 3rd gendarme. 1 rappel 30m to notch. from the notch we climbed some grass left of the crest to a short 4th class gully then more grass to the summit pyramid of the third pk of Slesse (first SE peak). The pyramid was about 60m of low 5th class soloing. Downclimbed and rapped back to our packs in notch and then traversed to top of S Spur Couloir. Just had poons on hiking shoes so made 5 raps down couloir with some epic type adventures like rap ropes getting stuck TWICE in the moat while retrieving, and one pin pulling out of a 2 pin anchor while Fern was rappelling on it Got down to the Prop Cairn at sundown and then to car at 11:30 Pm for a 17.5 hr car to car day. This new route is not the worlds best climb but has some fun sections and is no more vegetated than many of the other Slesse buttresses. Cool knobs and holds in the rock.

snow on top. apparently none left on the mid height bivi (it was reported to me) although i'd guess there might be a little bit

just got back from slesse. most of the pocket glacier has slid off. you can cross to the bypass without poons or axe HOWEVER there IS still some ice left above the traverse at base of east face. LOOK OUT cause it falls off randomly and would kill ya like a bug hitting a windshield. seems to start sliding around the timew sun hits the base of the face like 6:30-7:00 AM so get across to the buttress by then.

i heard that yaya chick is trying to take over your spray queen title.

anyone? anyone? "clones are banned?"

or you could get vblotto with a hungover nurse and I see one is trolling for partners tonight on this thread and others

eat 50 GUs and drink 5 liters of water and do em both in a speed enchainment

Stim Bullitt, the dude is like 5 years older and 55 years less experienced than Beckey and still sending.... hardman style points

City Park

oh yeah i got my popcorn and the ringside seat this is gonna be good

new emperor, old clothes

I think Ben had beer goggles on.

Dude come to Chilliwack! I'm gonna steal one of my own projects this weekend