Dru

terrordactyls?

classic alternative to falcons in wet cracks.

I did that at Red Rocks once with a bust off varnish plate. Quick learning curve on not following Swains directions on getting off Solar Slab (first climb at RR)

worth checking the 24 hour trend too on that link, not just the 5 day forecast, because for the last week it has been showing temps consistently 1-2C colder than forecast.

so, its nice you can admit it like that when you are WRONG! Logic 101 for Catbirdseat Some snafflehounds are rodents Pine martins are not rodents Therefore Pine martins are not snafflehounds - true or false, or not proven? Wrong, YOU say some snafflehounds are rodents. I say ALL snafflehounds are rodents. Pine Martens have been known to gnaw on climber's gear in rare instances, but bears do too and nobody calls bears snaffles. being "under the impression" does not equal an authoritative source. your impression was incorrect.

so, its nice you can admit it like that when you are WRONG! Logic 101 for Catbirdseat Some snafflehounds are rodents Pine martins are not rodents Therefore Pine martins are not snafflehounds - true or false, or not proven?

On the legendary lyle Knight "Ice Map" Taikonaut is located at the top of the gully (where it gets steep) approx. midway between the "text bars" of Mix Master and the Virgin.

steve placing first screw note icicle in background indicating vertical. sorry bout the tilt!

it wouldnt even hold a funkin' let alone a fall

it snowed about an inch in lillooet and was about -4C at night and 0C in the day. says it should be cold all week. old dogs new picks and the theft seemed to get visibly fatter between saturday and sunday

Night N Gale yup Shriek missing top 15m Gift... almost in, soooo close Theft, coming along nicely but minimal ice in the chimney yet Boulder Cr falls no ice on top pitches New Leash on Life nope House of Cards ice blobs, M10 hardmen get on it it takes crack pro capricorn, upper pillars Y, lower pillars (avoidable) no plan B thin hell creek wet cedarvale cr holes but climbable (fun to fill out a day if you up there) the virgin/mix master just about touch down blackbird approach ice in but pillar nonexistant old dogs, in but knida thin and scary looking on the crux pillar, fattening fat, should be in in a few more days. steristrip might be in but still can't find the bolts michelmoon got a big gaping hole jade falls one pillar and one hanging dagger prob more 4 than 3 silk degrees, neither the bottom or top are there but the middle is. who's got a hilti? nothing much south of lillooet or in the fraser canyon is in. bridge and duffy is where it's at.

US = astronaut Russia = cosmonaut Chinese = taikonaut

thanks professor!

TAIKONAUT 50m WI4 Drive to Terzaghi dam Take a left as if you are going to Shalath. Park at Carpenter Lake rec site Point your feet uphill and march! for 1.5-2 hours. Use forest or gully whatever is faster depending on snow conditions. You will find yourself in an amphitheater with 3 possible routes. a skinny, partly mixed little pillar on the left, a big fat floe of blue ice in the middle and a shorter mixed gully ramp on the right. The central line now is "Taikonaut" 50m WI4ish unless evidence of an unreported earlier ascent surfaces (Lyle told me this line was unclimbed in 2001 and I haven't heard of any since but who knows?) Vaguely Bow Falls ish, you could probably sneak a WI3+ by following the lines of weakness back and forth or get a harder 4 by going straight up the steepest part. The climb is a 30m pillar then a big snowy terrace and another 10m WI3 to finish. Worth doing. After finishing climb descend to road (~45 min) drive back to Lillooet for I hour. Steve Harng led it and I was the token belay slave

metal shovel handles can be made into a smoking implement, say you make it to muir hut and you forgot your papers...

just don't order sweetbreads thinking it's some type of danish

Mincemeat cheesecake? Mincemeat

I ate two mincemeat pies in the last 3 days

I told them they should call an onsight-freepoint a snafflepoint but Bjorn didn't listen to me

'twas guy and john mckim millar who climbed Smell the Roses M7 in late winter or early spring 2002.

I see in the MEC new routes book that Craig McGee and Beeker climbed onto and up the hanging dagger of the unformed Shreddie on Dec. 20 with a few bolts to give a "M6 WI?". I don't know how hard the "WI?" pitch is really supposed to be either