EddieE

Philfort - You sure that wasn't Smoot's book?

If you can find the Kong Slyde, that thing rules over the Metolius. I found mine at Pagan Mountaineering in Moab, and haven't found it anywhere else. http://www.kong.it/doc408.htm

Stand in your shower with the water turned on cold. Start punching the wall with your bare hands. Periodically ask your roommate to dump a bucket of ice cubes on your head.

The trend within the last five years has been leather over plastic for a few different reasons: - Leather provides more sensitivity and a much better fit. As the progress of ice climbing has given rise to more athletic and gymnastic routes, the need for more precise foot placements has gotten to be the rule rather than the exception. - Approaches are a heck of a lot more comfortable in leather boots. - When you're comparing the stiffness of a mountaineering leather and a plastic boot, think about the stiffness of around the ankle, not the stiffness of the shank. Plastics only have a slight edge at the shank compared to leathers, but this is more than compensated for by rigid crampons. However, especially with Koflach's softer plastic, you might find leathers to be stiffer at the ankle (it's harder to drop your heel when frontpointing) than SOME plastics. I feel that's the case with my Arctis Expeditions vs. my Super Mountain 9's. But neither of those are as stiff as my Scarpa Invernos. I might as well have casts on my feet, but they're frontpointing machines. that's my worthless two cents.

Jon - are you talking about buying gray market stuff? I've always been too chicken to do it. Have you had any bad experiences/drawbacks? Just wondering.

You can warm up your sleeping bag by eating spicy food for dinner. As long as you keep your bag sealed around your neck, your tentmates don't get too pissed.

Outside of my discipline? I wanna be a Ninja (lessons Dwayner?)and be the dude who breaks up fights on the Jerry Springer show. If that doesn't pan out I wanna spend some time surfing. After coming back from Hawaii last summer, that's one of the only other things that has as much 'soul' as climbing. Parker - absolutely. Bone - I also respect your opinion, however because ice climbing, and to a slightly smaller degree gear protected rock climbing, requires the 'leader must not fall attitude' you must be very aware of your limits. That's why leaders who are climbing at a higher level can make that choice to run it out past the crux to minimize the risk of a fall. It really all boils down to your comfort level, and it also serves to keep the riff-raff out [This message has been edited by EddieE (edited 10-18-2001).]

It was an alpine start at work today.

Yeah, it's kind of a jack ass thing, and I can think of at least 17 things I'd blow 500 bucks on, but I think its just the evolution of heated socks and those hand warmer packs for your hands. You probably wouldn't even know some dude has it on unless he's spraying about it. My dos centavos. I want heated grips for my ice tools. [This message has been edited by EddieE (edited 10-18-2001).]

I was a Tom Clancy junkie for awhile. It seems kind of eerie to read that stuff now with all the shit going down - it's like right out of any of those books. I've been meaning to read Atlas Shrugged for awhile...I think I'll pick it up for the next road trip.

Because that is so much worse than climbers blowing snot rockets, wearing the same underwear 10 days in a row, pissing in bottles, crapping in tubes (or sleeping bags), etc, etc,

Hey you guys...hitting a baseball is still the hardest thing to do in sports.

Not really a peak, and not even a climb but: poking your head up and over Asterix pass and seeing the Oregon volcanoes spread out over the horizon.

Dude - I thought everyone knew where that came from. Looks like its NY again. Those guys seem to have our number. [This message has been edited by EddieE (edited 10-15-2001).]

"right on" I'll be the guy with the beer goggles on.

Anybody got any more info?

Don't forget that toilet that has the view of Mt. Stuart.

Wow, does it come with drinkholders? I wouldn't even need to get my shoes dirty when I hunt Snafflehounds - bitchin'.

Another perspective: I'll be going this year after having missed it the last couple, and attending the previous three. Yes, you get the non-climbing, hero worshipping crowd (wait - wasn't there a thread here not long ago...?), and slicked out media hyped films. But my memories from previous events include Chouinard having so many slides he ran out of time at 1984, sitting in on a great panel discussion about high altitude guiding the year after the Everest thing that inluded Krakauer, Viesturs and Alex Lowe. Anyways, any excuse to get out to Banff is a good one. If you're going up, let's grab a beer one night. I'll be there Wed-Mon. BTW - you can't compare the travelling show with the one in Banff. [This message has been edited by EddieE (edited 10-10-2001).]

Right on. Use grades as adjectives to find appropriate partners and describe climbs, not as a blue ribbon you wear next to the Ropegun label on your baggy sweatshirt. Climbing is about the soul. If the second question you ask me, after finding out my name, is 'how hard do you climb?', you can blow me. [This message has been edited by EddieE (edited 10-10-2001).]

I'm picturing the Macy's parade walking around in the enchantments. That's funny. I don't know about Canada, but I think blowing sheep is a crime in some states.

If a biner snaps on a the last bolt you clipped, you might have ten bolts behind it to catch your fall. If the rope gets cut anywhere between you and your belayer, buh bye. Ropes: get the fat 11m x 60m. This will last you awhile, especially if you protect it with a rope bag and tarp. Top roping is pretty tough on ropes and if you have the means, spring for the dry rope...we do live in the PNW. My dos centavos.

South Early Winter Spires is also a good one. Wherever you go it might be worth your time to check the Mountaineer's schedule and plan accordingly. Happy climbing.

I hunt snafflehounds with my bolt gun. If I'm unsuccessful it's pepporoni sticks, corn dogs, coffee and beer. Power gel with double caffeine for bravery. If you drive up to Paradise with a sealed container of yogurt in your car, it blows up. It's kind of the same thing with your butt when you fart...hopefully its not as messy.

Sorry my friend, but lack of funds to get gear is a poor excuse to not go climbing. You aren't the first Lute climber to be so poor you can't even pay attention. Gear shouldn't be your limiting factor. A rack of stoppers and hexes will take you a long ways, and you'll learn how to place passive protection correctly. It's nice to have a bunch of cams, but if that's the only thing you know how to place, you're still a long way off.