dan_e

Snapped a pic of Frenchman's on the way to Hyalite. Not sure how fugs is, but it may in enough to climb. I would get there soon since the temps are supposed to be above freezing by Saturday.

Nope, but they are forming so maybe this weekend.

I was just telling a friend about that Alex! Man that was a long time ago!

I got one from the first manufacturing run, which was almost five years ago from what I can recall. Since then it's mainly moved from pack to pack, being ready for the time I forget my headlamp. I check the battery condition every year and it's always the same which is crazy bright especially considering it runs on two CR2023 watch batteries! Last season I saw a guy ice climbing and he had it attached to his harness. I thought that was a great idea and since then it's been on my biner that has of my bail gear on it (knife, cord, Tibloc, etc). Well it finally got used yesterday since my friend forgot his headlamp and it worked great for about 30 minutes coming down the trail from Rap Wall (the temp was about 26-28 degrees). I may change the batteries, however they still seem to have some juice left for the next time.

Just a brief TR on the Rap Wall drytooling area above Source Lake. Sorry no pics since I forgot the camera. This was my third trip to Rap Wall this season, the first two were before any snow had fallen. The approach trail (summer) is in good shape, as it's still being packed out by hikers. Getting to the wall was another story, basically waist deep postholing. It's a good thing it's not that far from the trail. As for the routes, well there was a fair amount of snow, however the climbs are still all fully exposed. There was some ice of ice, but most of it was annoying and made the two climbs we did at least a grade harder, not to mention having to chip ice of bolts and not finding chains because they were buried! I had several falls, one was pretty long (20+') and fully inverted That being said I think there should be quite a bit more ice formed by the weekend which could make for fun mixed climbing. Important Note: I installed a bolt on the route with the roof that has the larger than fist crack in it (the crack is now filled with ice). The bolt is just at the apex of the roof, to the right of the crack. I fell on the bolt several times so it's been tested. I heard Chad Kellogg fell on the original bolt and it pulled out! I was really lucky that ice has formed a damn above it so the hole was bone dry. The hole was drilled fine, not sure why the original bolt pulled.

There's ice at Rap wall and tons of snow. Nothing you could put a screw into though. I will post a brief TR, unfortunately no pics since I forgot the camera in the car.

Pretty much. They're building that stuff simply because people will buy it, regardless of its place in the backcountry. They're not misrepresenting it as anything else. More power to them, I say. Spot on Figger_Eight. What people are refering to is the Veilance division of Arc'teryx. I am not one to spend money on fancy clothes, but if I had the cash I would buy a SS02 Blazer in a second, heck it's even under $900! Who cares if it's not Italian. Most in the industry still agree Arc'teryx makes the best 'constructed' outdoor apparel, however they are not very innovative with fabrics. Still they do use very high quality materials.

They are so full of shit and they act like the invented heat reflection fabrics (referring specifically to their new commercials). I always try keep an open mind about new technologies, but still I have yet to see any PE or PU based laminates that actually breath well enough to be used in a jacket. I still think membranes with pores like PTFE (gore-tex) are the way to go, especially since they work (albeit not nearly as good) like our own skin. It would be nice if some one came up with a more eco version of gore-tex. All fabrics with or without breathable membranes have limitations, it's all about knowing what they can and can't do. Columbia BS aside, there are some legit new breathable fabrics coming out. One I am interested is Polartech Power Shield Pro, too bad know one I trust is using yet, especially not TNF! I also want to test the Mammut c_change fabric which is supposed to breath more when it's warm (like our skin works). Sounds great on paper, but does it work in 'real world" situations. Oh and I have to comment on this quote: "The outdoors industry has become stale," said a Columbia exec at the event. "We want to grow the market through innovation." Again you're full of shit Columbia! Grow the market, what with your shitty/gimmicky products and more BS! WTF!!!

I am not worried at all I was mainly trying to put others at ease. I've had a few comments regarding the rivet (as in adding metal to the helmet). It's really all about the placement. Not that climbing helmets are nearly as sophisticated, but moto helmet makers tell you to retire a helmet even if you drop it on the ground! It is true that the internal foam cpuld be damaged from the impact, which could, to some degree reduce the amount of head protection if you're in a bad crash, however I think it's more to cover their ass.

Yes, but the key is to remember to do that! Putting it on in the light with the helmet off is a lot easier. I guess just like the clean look and it makes me look more like a miner!

That's another option, however finding the right adhesive would be important and if you screw it up you could ruin your helmet. The pop rivet way is easy and fast, my second mod (on the Meteor) took me about 10-15 minutes.

Thanks! I like my mods to look as close to factory as possible. I did play with the location of the wire so it the biner on the umbilicals did not get in the way. I botched the first one, but you can't tell when the hand rest is on. All you need to do is drill a hole in the aluminum piece that holds the adjustable hand rest. You will need to find a small swag or reduce the size by grinding it down which is what I did. Don't make the hole too big and don't get to close the the hole that is for mounting the hand rest. You will need to remove some of the plastic from the hand rest so you can slide it on easily when the wire is attached. If you use cord this will be easier. It is a fairly easy mod, but takes time to get it looking nice. You can experiment how hard to swag the wire and this will determine if you want it to break free under load like I've done. This is really personal preference. Others have mention that your tool could hold a fall, however I will never rely on an ice tool to hold a fall that's what screws are for!

MOD #3 Petzl Nomic Umbilical Attachment I still have fixed feelings about umbilicals, but like many of you I don't want to lose a tool when I am 2-3 pitches or more of the deck. It would mostly hurt my wallet. I got the idea from a guy with a par of new Nomics, apparently there is a hole where you can attach cord or even coated with like I did, but you will need to drill the hole if you have the original Nomics. STANDARD WORTHLESS DISCLAIMER: Remember kids, modifying your gear is potentially dangerous and could result in your death or the death of your trusty climbing buddy. If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it! MOD #3 Petzl Nomic Umbilical Attachment (with BD Umbilicals attached) I designed the attachment point to fail at around 170 lbs., the reason being is that I don't want a tool to smash me in the face after falling. If the tool is placed solid enough and I fall it should stay in the ice and I will hopefully be able to retrieve it later. It will also keep one honest since you won't not be able to weight the umbilicals since the swag will eventually fail which will send you plummeting to your death! After all the umbilicals are meant to save a dropped tool, not to hold a fall!

I love my Fraction jacket(s). The older model had a dual zip which is sadly gone. I use then primarily as a belay jacket, especially here in the moist PNW. Personally I think it's warmer than the Transcendent, mainly because it's not 'sewn through' construction. It's does have the same fill as the Nano hoodie, but the Fraction is eco primaloft. :-p to patagucci! Either way the fraction feels like it has more insulation, not sure why. I am a former OR employee, but I am not biased. I use whatever gear works best and my outerwear ranges from OR to Arc'teryx and yes even Patagonia who I really do love!

I figured I would share a few mods, you know give back to the community. This one is for the Petzl Adapt. I love the this thing, you know trying to put a headlamp on a helmet is never easy and especially since it's almost always in the dark! That being said it's a flawed product (mounting method) don't trust the adhesive! I followed the instructions to the letter and it still peeled off with ease and it looks ugly anyway. It might work on the smoother surface of the Meteor III, however I am not willing to risk losing my headlamp. STANDARD WORTHLESS DISCLAIMER: Remember kids, modifying your gear is potentially dangerous and could result in your death or the death of your trusty climbing buddy. If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it! I am not writing much, you know what they say: "a picture...", but I will comment when necessary. MOD(S) 1&2 Petzl Adapt Multimount. On the Elios On the Meteor III Now you might be asking yourself two questions, first is it safe? and second will it effect the ability of the helmet to protect my head? Well in the end that's for you to decide, however I am comfortable with the mod, but that's me. Would Petzl approve? hell no! On the Elios the pop rivet is covered by the internal plastic harness and some EVA foam I added. It's pretty much the same deal on the Meteor III, except there is even more foam between my skull and the tiny pop rivet. There is also a piece of HDPE plastic in there and it's finished off with seam grip and covered with velcro and then a bit of internal padding.

The right line looks like a solid WI 6!

Jon H, please take everything you read here with a grain of salt! Sorry guys but it's called "Cascade Whiners" for a reason! I am a former 'wrong' coast climber (NH Native) and yes in many ways it's better to be back east as an ice climber, but mainly if you are a weekend warrior. I honestly really only miss the Lake, but I can go to the CDN rockies and have way more routes to choose from at the same grade. As for WA, yes ice is fickle here, really depends on the year. Even in a bad season you will get on some quality ice and when the ice is in there many excellent routes to be had. Still, to be happy as an ice climber you must be able to travel and take long trips (Bozeman, Cody, BC and the CDN Rockies). This is my 2nd time living in WA (as a die hard ice climber) and I am loving it. I've learned to adapt to the conditions and most importantly always have a back up plan! Good luck and all that being said I think it's wise that you wait and come out to do Liberty Ridge. It's a fantastic route and we generally have very long stretches of good weather in the summer.

Bob is spot on. The hybrid crampons are fine for glacier travel and lower angle ice/moderate alpine, however if it you want to climb more steep ice having crampons that fit well is critical. If you ever get a chance try a pair of fruit boots or any boot with bolt-ons and you will truly understand the difference.

My Friend JP and I headed up to climb Online on 6/27. I was unable to confirm on Friday if the gate was open, however we arrived to find that it was. It appears the gate is now left open on the weekend and there were quite a few cars on the road, but no climbers at the trailhead. Still it's probably a good idea to call ahead (Thanks Idea Guy). The approach road is now marked by a group of large boulders, last year it was a giant tree snag and boulders. It's just up the road from the bridge, on the right and there are plenty of places to park off of the road. We attempted the approach last year, hiking in from the gate and finding the approach road, but due to a late start and lots of bushwacking we decided to turned around and return another day. There were lots of climbers there doing the same, however it's rare to see more than on more party on the cliff, even on the weekend. When I first climbed at Static Point back in 1996, one could drive (with a 4x4) nearly all the way to the approach trail, those days are a distant memory. I would like to thank all the climbers who helped clear the old path last year. It's very easy to follow and the total approach is around an hour or so. The approach trail from the old road is in excellent shape and hasn't really changed in nearly 14 years. It's clearly marked by a large drainage pipe and rock cairn and it's just past a very large, steep and rock strewn stream bed. If you look up here you will see part of the cliff above. As for the climb JP led all the money pitches, I really wanted him to get a good taste of pure friction climbing and Online has some really nice sections of clean enough to eat off of granite. I've led this route twice, first in 1996 which oddly enough was my first multi pitch rock climb in Washington (thanks Vance!) and again in 2000. I enjoyed being back on this quality route and the pitches I led were fun, however seconding friction is not for me and I blew the crux on pitch 5 simply because I wasn't focused. JP cruised the crux and the also pitch 3 which has a spicy runout. This pitch is 5.9 if you pick the straight line from bolt 1 to 2. The rock is still very clean, maybe not quite as clean when I first did it in 96, but still very nice. We were lucky to have climbed in nearly perfect friction weather, 60's and cloudy with only a few rain drops at the top of pitch 6. We noticed new shiny bolts on the climb to the left of Online, assumed to be American Pie. The spacing between bolts looked much more consistent than Online, however it was tough to tell where the last bolt was before the anchors, which appear to be shared with Online (these are the only new belay anchors on Online, at the top of pitch 6). All of the belay bolts on Online are really getting old and should be replaced. Most of the bolts on the route are 3/8" SMC, however there are some 1/4" ones at the belays. One belay/rap station has three bolts, one 1/4" Leeper that is coming out of the rock, one 1/4" SMC and one 3/8" SMC. For the most part I still consider the 3/8" SMC to be safe, the others not so much. We plan to head back to try some other routes, maybe Shock Treatment and American Pie or whatever those newly (re)bolted lines are. I must say that it's a shame to see nice new and expensive bolted line graced by a belay/rap station with no chains. I am referring to pitch 6 of Online, two nice shiny new bolts (either Fixe or Petzl, I can't recall) with black nylon slings and two carabiners?! Again it's great to see the new hardware, but why not go the extra mile and toss some chains and quick links on those beautiful bolts? JP heading up pitch 2, 5.7 Me on pitch 4 JP on top of pitch 3, 5.9 Old SMC bolts on belay/rap station on pitch ?

The "correct" story: LEAVENWORTH — Two Seattle-area ice climbers are safe and dry after their raft capsized early Saturday in the icy Wenatchee River, forcing a swift-water rescue operation. The incident happened before 7 a.m. in Tumwater Canyon, about 2 miles west of The Alps candy store on Highway 2, Sgt. Andy Zimmerman, Chelan County Sheriff’s spokesman, said Sunday. The climbers were Alex Krawarik, 38, of Bellevue and Rafael Haroutunian, 47, of Seattle. The men were headed across the river in an inflatable raft to climb ice-covered rock faces on the west side of the Wenatchee River in Tumwater Canyon, Zimmerman said. They put in in calm water on the river’s east side, but drifted into rapids, where the small raft capsized, submerging the two men. Krawarik climbed onto an ice-covered rock mid-river, Zimmerman said. Haroutunian made it to the river’s west shore. Two other climbers traveled with the victims and were planning to cross the river on their own raft. They were Dan Erickson, 40, and Jeremy Park, 31, both of Seattle. Reached this morning for comment, Erickson said he and Park tried unsuccessfully to use their own boat to rescue their two climbing partners, then returned to shore and called 911 from The Alps. The river’s depth around the capsized boat ranges from a shallow 1.5 feet to holes as deep as 6 feet or more, Zimmerman said. “They are very, very fortunate that nobody drowned,” Zimmerman said. The sheriff’s office dispatched its whitewater rescue team, which worked with Leavenworth company Osprey Rafting to launch a river raft and float close enough to the rock to throw Krawarik a rope. He then scrambled over an ice bridge and into the raft to safety, Zimmerman said. Rescuers then paddled to the west shore to pick up Haroutunian. The rescue operation ended around 9 a.m. Zimmerman said paramedics at the scene checked the climbers for hypothermia, but all were OK. Erickson said all four were experienced climbers and rafters. Krawarick is co-author of the book, “Washington Ice, a climbing guide.” “We all know what we’re doing, but in this situation, the river may have been moving at a higher volume than we realized,” Erickson said this morning. “When we put in it was totally dark. There’s an element of danger. We accept that.” Erickson said all four went out to breakfast after the incident and then headed home. Osprey Rafting owner Gary Planagan said he and Osprey employee Sergio Cuevas aided the rescue. “We were talking, concerned with the people having hypothermia,” Planagan said of his and Cuevas’ conversation on the way to the incident. “At the same time, the thought was, ‘Why are we going rafting in the Tumwater Canyon in December?’ It was kind of comical.” Andy Dappen, publisher of the Web site Wenatchee Outdoors, said Tumwater Canyon, west of the Wenatchee River, is popular with ice climbers. Climbing destinations there include Drury Falls, at the top of Falls Creek Canyon, Dappen said. Ice climbers use picks, ropes and spiked shoes to scale ice-covered rock faces.

Just want to first give props to JP since this was his first multi-pitch ice climb and he got the full on experience. I attempted it last season, but bailed 2/3 of the way up. It's in way better shape this season, no BS snice! It's not fat, but it's "in" for sure. Not to much to add really, although there is no WI 2 ice on this route as described (he's still learning). Depending on your line expect at least WI 4 with sections/pitches of 3/3+. We pitched the 200m out into due to wetness avoidance and me being short a couple of screws. The climb is very wet in spots so trying to keep the ropes dry was a top priority. The good thing is that we ended up getting on some hard/steep sections. The climb is in solid WI 4 shape, feeling a bit closer to 4+ for the line we took. As JP mentioned the top was very interesting climbing on fragile tubes, mushrooms, etc. It was one of the most amazing top outs that I've even done on an ice climb here in WA. The approach is just a bit upstream from the parking lot (towards Crystal) after crossing the first braid. This is where JP described how our log was moved. We assumed it was some idiots that moved it, but there is a chance that it was washed down stream. We will post an overall shot soon (Jeremy?).

Huge loss, a truly gifted ice climber. I just checked some of his ice solos, like Fearful Symmetry. I can't even fathom what it would be like to have the mental focus to solo a route like that. It's so true that you never know when your times up. I mean after all of those super hard ice solos he get's killed while using a rope, go figure...

Climbed with a local on 11/27-28. First day was warm, above freezing. The second day was much better, a bit of new snow, clear and sunny with temps around 20 degrees (near perfect ice climbing weather). Spent Friday climbing G1, G2, Hangover and then finished with some TR on the stuff right of G1. All the climbs were a bit thin, but felt like the grades listed in the guides. Hangover was the thinnest, however the shortest screws I use are 13cm and I only had a couple that only went at 10cm. Saturday featured a warmup on Mummy 2, which is in 4- conditions and was a really fun climb. Next was The Scepter, it's in 5/5- shape and it's fun. Technical climbing on and around huge mushrooms with a bit of stemming on rock for the lower section. The upper section is 85 deg ice for about 10-15m. The ice was great and was easy to protect. The last climb was Crypt Orchid which was a nice, mellow cool down route. I wanted to stay and climb on Sunday, but I was riding solo so I only had two days of climbing for two days of driving, but it was well worth it! Here's a couple of shots Washington climber on Mummy 2 (I forgot his name) The Scepter This is my first time to Hyalite and I am hooked! I also would recommend the Backpackers Hostel for a cheap place to stay. I met a bunch on cool folks from all over the place.

to the other "dane": My post was designed to help those who are thinking of modifying Nomics (or any tool) without the knowledge and experience that's required to carry out this type of modification. And to also let them know that such a modification can result in serious consequences. It would be foolish to suggest that such a modification does not involve any risk. I've modified lots of gear over the years, however I've never and will never lead anyone to believe that it's necessarily a good idea (as in there is risk). I think we all know climbing is risky, most would not (I hope) debate that fact.

The equivalent of climbing rock at around 5.8+, challenging but by no means hard.