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I just renewed the sole sponsorship of CascadeCllimbers.com server hosting costs by The American Alpine Institute for another year. We owe it to these guys, they believe in this place and shown that in monetary support. Thank you @Jason_Martin and team! Our hosting company was recently purchased and this resulted in significant increase in monthly cost for hosting as they jacked the rates. AAI has increased their support to continue to support the full cost of hosting. We will need to evaluate our options to see if we can bring that cost down, but for now AAI is keeping the lights on and it is very much appreciated. Please give them all the support you can, referrals, whatever. Thank you.

Thanks for a great trip Karsten, it was a tough one to pull off with a new partner; I think we did great. As Karsten mentioned, @Riley81's beta was invaluable: The only place we screwed up was on the north face of North. Follow Karsten's directions above. The dihedral mentioned by Riley81 and Beckey is really short and easy, we climbed it as a face, and there is a big tree growing out of the back of it, so it didn't seem like a great landmark. At this dihedral you wrap around from the NE ridge to the east face basically, then up into a gulley, then you are at the horn with tat and the start of the hidden ledge traverse. Don't go up the easy class 3 gulley to the steep wall. Otherwise you end up doing Beckey's variation: "Variation: On the lower portion of the climb, from the "hidden ledge" ascend a steep rock wall to a large hanging brush patch. Imitate a gorilla..." You get the idea. Riley81s beta on the descent from North was perfect (it reads insane at home, but following along totally works). The only thing I would add is descending from Middle, we did the same thing but had to do some looking around. From Middle Index we started down the ridge, bore left down a gulley to a treed area, then back west up a heather gulley, through a notch, down some rock and trees on the west side to an easy ledge system. Then bear east (left) along this ledge and heather to slabs, you cross the ridge back to the east side here where it is very gentle. Down slabs easterly until it starts feeling cliffy below, then go back over the crest to the west again and down a chossy slope or a chossy incised gulley. Wrap around to the crest where there is a chockstone gulley that leads to the notch. We made a rap station off a huge block on a prow skiers right of the chockstone and did a ~25m rap into the notch. Just above our station is a tree that Riley and co rapped off of (we didn't check this out). Incidentally, we were a tad confused that no one mentioned that the Middle-Main notch is a double notch with a point in it, this we easily climbed over to belay at the base of the next pitch out of the notch. With @Riley81's, and of course @JasonG's, beta with some Beckey thrown in we did pretty well. It's mostly all there, the looking around is the best part. If I were to do it again (which I won't) I would take a higher percentage of double runners and more small cams e.g. #0 and #1 master.