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I've used this forum a fair bit for research in the past and figured it's time to contribute back! This is a post from the summer of 2022, but hopefully the beta is still useful. My partner Andrea and I set out to do Phyllis's Engine via the standard route in late September. The plan was to do the approach on day 1 up to Polemonium Ridge and then attempt our climb the following morning with a long hike out on the same day. Despite its inclusion in the Alpine Select, there's actually not a ton of beta (that I could find) on the standard route. Steven Song has a great report from the 5.9 variation and there was also one post on here from 2013 with some good beta as well, but otherwise there's limited details on what to expect. The one other detail that I read on numerous accounts was the cadence of ropes getting stuck on rappels. I had that in the back of my mind for the rest of the trip. On the 20th, of September we set out from the Helm Creek Trail Head and followed the well paved path all the way to the turn off for Helm Glacier. The glacier was in a very dry condition, so we didn't bother roping up and found it straightforward to navigate. When we reached the top of Gentian Pass we caught eye of the 250m elevation loss below, but the scenery is nice enough to distract from it all. We reached a suitable camp site around an hour before sunset and settled in for the evening. Andrea on the Helm Glacier Dropping into Gentian Pass Sunset at camp We got going around 9am, when the sun rose and followed the long side hilling traverse around to the Sphinx Glacier entry West of Phyllis's Engine. This glacier looked more complicated to traverse so we made the decision to rope up here. Andrea lead a great line up to the base of the Engine and then we transitioned over to climbing gear. From there we lead 3 pitches to the summit on solid rock, albeit the top of pitch 1 was kitty litter over slab. Reaching the entrance to the glacier The Engine off in the distance Getting closer Myself above the first part of pitch 1 At the top of pitch 1 looking down at Andrea The kitty litter slab traverse Andrea coming up pitch 2 Myself on pitch 2. I ran out of gear just before the top, so Andrea lead the remainder up to the base of pitch 3. Looking down the exposed and awesome pitch 3 Andrea on the summit Myself on the summit On the descent, we found our rope was too short to reach the second rappel station we spotted (on a 60m rope) and so had to build an intermediary rap station and then continue on. I held my breath on each rope pull, but thankfully it never got stuck. We swapped back into our regular gear and then roped up for the glacier again. We didn't reach our camp site until just before sunset. Andrea and I debated crashing for the night, but we had run out of snacks and we figured it's better to slog it out now then be hungry in the morning covering the same distance. With that, we packed up camp and made our way back towards Helm Glacier. We didn't arrive until well into the night and it was a touch spooky covering the glacier by head lamps only. It was a moonless night, which didn't help. Helm Glacier at night After the glacier, it was a long march back to the car, but we finally made it around 4am after 19 hours on the move. I drove us back home where we promptly crashed out for the day. I have a full recount of the details here if you're interested: https://www.francisbaileyh.com/2022/09/22/phylliss-engine/

Anybody skied this glacier? A very scenic descent.....

That looks like Canada? I have been digging up routes and locations in hopes of a trip next year. Also thanks for starting this Jason, I would be game for another picture fundraiser if you do it again. A picture of my mentor (father) pre 1988 on top of Mt Wilson after doing Athabasca- Skyladder, Andromeda N face, and Attempt of Andromeda-Strain

Andy Mahoney, I know these post are old. I was on the Canadian crew that did the rescue of the co-pilot and sheriff deputy. I found your dad. He was still in his seat and frozen. Sorry for your lost. It was bad. The Americans were trying to get it from the south and we were trying to get in from the north. After 3 days we broke through. Your Dad got into a box canyon and I believe the wind made his chopper hit 200 feet above ground. It’s a miracle anyone survived. The hikers that found the crash site gave up their gear, and that is what saved the lives of the ones we pulled out. It is truly amazing we made it out alive. The hiker that his crew went to rescue only had a sprained ankle. Your Dad was a true hero and never forgot that .Randy Miller

Such a beautiful area! Thanks for the summer report, I haven't seen much on that area once summer rolls around. I have very fond memories of a winter trip some years back.

No bites? Well, does anyone know these two peaks @Kit is pointing at? We got avalanched off the one on the left. I guess I'll need to go back.