IanOutThere Posted August 2, 2008 Posted August 2, 2008 Trip: Mount Stuart - North Ridge Date: 7/30/2008 Trip Report: This was an amazing all-day push from Ingalls Pass TH with Doug, Eve, and Andrew. We had great weather once we reached the N. Ridge, yet the gendarme pitches were really cold and slightly icy. The decent into the Cascadian was a little loose up high but fast and sandy as we dropped. While climbing up to Longs Pass from Ingalls Peak I was in a dream-like state We travelled dawn 'til dusk never having to use our headlamps on the 16 hour push. Yesterday I couldn't walk down the stairs but it was worth it! Simul-climbing the ridge up to the gendarme picthes will not soon be forgotten. Stuart truly is worthy of her/his crown. for a complete TR and photos - it's on my blog: ianoutthere.blogspot.com Gear Notes: approach shoes, crampons (2 of us had alum.), ice axe, 2 35M ropes, cams to atleast 3.5", plus TCU's, gloves and puffy, Approach Notes: Ingalls Pass, Stuart Pass, Goat Pass, high traverse across Stuart Glacier, up 3rd class gully to reach outstanding N. Ridge Quote
telemarker Posted August 2, 2008 Posted August 2, 2008 Nice trip you guys I wonder if TR's on the N. Ridge should distinguish between the 1/2 North Ridge vs. the North Ridge? It seems goofy to label a TR as a "Complete" North Ridge climb if one climbs the whole ridge. The lower ridge is every bit as fun and classic as the upper, with two excellent starting pitches. But this is an old argument... Quote
telemarker Posted August 3, 2008 Posted August 3, 2008 Who cares. Because the "North Ridge" starts much lower than the c. 1/2 way point at the notch. Quote
clmblikeagirl Posted August 3, 2008 Posted August 3, 2008 can't really say you climbed the entire north ridge unless you actually "CLIMB" the entire north ridge Quote
curtveld Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 (edited) Sounds like a hell of a day! Thanks for the TR. It seems goofy to label a TR as a "Complete" North Ridge climb if one climbs the whole ridge. This sounds like a grievance for Mr Beckey (and Nelson, Potterfield and...). IanOutThere was just using the standard terminology. Edited August 4, 2008 by curtveld Quote
mattp Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 There's plenty of tradition behind things like this. Exum Ridge on the Grand is the closest analogy I can think of, but think too of the North Face of Mt. Shuksan (it is not north of the summit, ends at an outlying shoulder, and faces NNE) or for another example of how history and tradition affects things like this consider that the fat that published rating reflected the crux of the original way Lovin' Arms at Index was done even though there was a distinctly easier variation nearby. The "upper" N. Ridge of Stuart was climbed in 1957. The "lower" half later. I don't disagree with the telemarker -- there is some good climbing on the lower portion and in particular at the start -- but if I did the route again I might well do only the upper half. Quote
IanOutThere Posted August 4, 2008 Author Posted August 4, 2008 "can't really say you climbed the entire north ridge unless you actually "CLIMB" the entire north ridge " I had no intention of misleading anyone on the particulars of our route (see approach notes). The route we used to approach the ridge follows the approach in Beckey under "North Ridge" directly. If you would like to call it something else maybe you should give Fred a call and ask him to publish an update for Volume I. With that said, this route was awesome and fun and had great climbing and exposure. It's all just a bunch of passes and ridges and summits and mountains. Just go climbing! Quote
telemarker Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 I had no intention of misleading anyone! Ian, I think you owe everyone on here a big apology for having mislead us into thinking you climbed the N. Ridge of Stuart. Go ahead, we're waiting..... In all seriousness, it's just an F'n triviality, that's all, that's always confused me especially after climbing the N. Ridge. One of my all-time favorites. Quote
kevbone Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 I had no intention of misleading anyone! Ian, I think you owe everyone on here a big apology for having mislead us into thinking you climbed the N. Ridge of Stuart. Go ahead, we're waiting..... In all seriousness, it's just an F'n triviality, that's all, that's always confused me especially after climbing the N. Ridge. One of my all-time favorites. Am I missing something? This trip report is labeled North Ridge.....not complete North ridge. It is labeled correctly. WTF are you bitching about? Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 did you need the crampons at all for the descent? Quote
kevbone Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 did you need the crampons at all for the descent? All three times I have come off Stuart....I have needed them. Everytime was late August. Quote
pope Posted August 5, 2008 Posted August 5, 2008 I had no intention of misleading anyone! Ian, I think you owe everyone on here a big apology for having mislead us into thinking you climbed the N. Ridge of Stuart. Go ahead, we're waiting..... In all seriousness, it's just an F'n triviality, that's all, that's always confused me especially after climbing the N. Ridge. One of my all-time favorites. Am I missing something? This trip report is labeled North Ridge.....not complete North ridge. It is labeled correctly. WTF are you bitching about? Exactly. Read the text and it's clear what was climbed. And 16 hours from that side of the mountain is GOOD time. I think somebody just wants us to be impressed that he climbed the complete N. ridge. BFD. Quote
telemarker Posted August 5, 2008 Posted August 5, 2008 I think somebody just wants us to be impressed that he climbed the complete N. ridge. BFD. Yeah, you really pegged it there. Just a simple question, not a critique of their climb. Read my original post.... Quote
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