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JayB

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About JayB

  • Rank
    sprayer
  • Birthday 11/30/99

Converted

  • Occupation
    Lab-Rat
  • Location
    Capitol Hill
  1. Paging Polish Bob

    The world will be a realm of chaos and disorder until the "Smoke crack and worship Satan" autosig is restored to its rightful place.
  2. Any recommendations for a pack raft?

    Hey Matt: I'd suggest making a post over at ProfessorPaddle.com, or the "Seattle Whitewater Kayaking" Facebook group for specific info on packrafts. I don't do it myself, but have kayaked with a couple of guys who mix in packrafting with their whitewater kayaking and I'm sure there are many more that I'm not aware of that could pass along some helpful info. I don't know what your background is, but if you haven't spent much time on rivers I'd make it a point to spend as much time as possible paddling around a fully loaded packraft on water that's at least a full grade harder than anything you anticipate floating down in Alaska. There are quite a few local stretches that would serve as a good training ground for that sort of thing, and once you pick out your boat the folks on those boards will have lots of good suggestions for training runs.
  3. Life Insurance

    Cool - hopefully you get at least a couple of quotes and are in a position to choose from competing offers. Let us know how it goes - it'll surely be useful info for someone else. If you wind up getting terms that are significantly better than we've got at the moment, I'll follow your lead and give the NHG a call myself.
  4. Advice for west coast climbing trip

    Markus: Seems like Smith Rock outside of Bend would be a natural place to target for sport climbing. There's a forum here for meeting up with potential partners along your route: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/forums/12/1/Climbing_Partners
  5. Life Insurance

    Hey Ben: Speaking of kids - I'd type out a longer message but I've got two little ones I have to tend to at the moment - but I can say that we went through the same thing getting life insurance for my wife and ultimately had to seek out a high-risk broker. The short story is that if you answer yes to a couple of key questions - you get your life insurance application and basically get put on a "do not insure" list. The guy we went with has contacts at insurers that he knows will write high-risk policies, lets them "informally" look over your application, and only "formally" submits your application when they've given the green light. Somehow this seems to work. The application we had to fill out was super-detailed, and seemed like it was put together by someone who understood climbing. The downside is it's wicked expensive - we're paying ~3K a year for a 15 year $ 1 million dollar term-life policy. Anyhow - hope this helps - and isn't too depressing. Here's a link to the guy we used: http://www.stevenkobrin.com/
  6. It was pretty wild for me at the time - but at the same time I've always been realistic enough about my abilities or lack thereof to realize that what was the definitive apotheosis of all things climbing for me would have almost certainly been a pretty casual day out in the hills for lots of other folks. There's something profoundly affecting about spending any time whatsoever in a state where you feel as though your eyes have been propped open clockwork-orange-style, you're staring at the back of Plato's cave, and you've got a completely unobstructed view of the universe's sublime indifference to your existence, much less your fate in that particular moment, and all of existence has been distilled down to an essence composed of bone, sinew, synapse...rock, ice, steel...and the mute laws of physics. Beautiful country - but a brief visit on a tourist visa was enough for me.
  7. I suppose it's telling that the only reason that I found this thread was because my four year old wanted a bedtime story - so I scrolled through the memory banks and decided to tell her about this route. Then she wanted to see pictures - so it was off to Google and here we are. Here's a picture of the route in the condition that we found it in early November. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/505/2319route_web.jpg[/img] ...And here's a picture of the belay. It's been a few years now and it's fair to say that just about every moment from the point in time where I caught the first glimpse of that anchor until I was clipping in a 22cm screw that I'd ground allllll the way into gloriously fat, plastic ice that I reached at the end of a brief mixed traverse were quite memorable. I swear that I can play just about every second like a VHS track in my mind. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/505/2319scary_web.jpg[/img] Part of the reason that we wound up with the textbook, Freedom of the Hills style belay you see above is that the rock in the vicinity of the belay was tightly jointed and there just wasn't much to work with. The main reason was that for some reason or another I think we were expecting to find the route completely touched-down and had only packed a skimpy rock rack in the event that we found ourselves in a stance or two where we might have to resort to some rock pro for backup. Eric's full 60M lead up to that stance with all of ~4 pieces of pro remains the single most impressive lead I've ever witnessed, and that route stands out as the most profound experience I've ever had in the mountains. If I play my cards right, I'll never have an experience *quite* like that again - but by the same token I can't say that I'd necessarily rule out the chance to head back up there in the spring and take a much different version of myself up what appears to be a much different version of the route that forms up by springtime.
  8. Pretty hard to beat the Front Range when it comes to proximity to tons of high-quality rock climbing + altitude. When you want to combine the two - there's a staggering number of routes in RMNP alone, and you could spend quite a few seasons just tackling the routes on the Diamond. As far as ice climbing is concerned - if you're super motivated you can get on ice out here, but the quantity/consistency is nothing like CO. Climbing wise - the only thing that the NW has that CO doesn't is heavily glaciated peaks and volcanoes and super-remote wilderness - but based on your interests it sounds like you'd be better off living in CO and flying to the NW when you want to tackle that sort of route.
  9. I'm back bitches

    Here's to hoping that the return of one long-loster will bring back another... http://www.geocities.ws/extremomtdude/
  10. All Foam Helmets

    I always preferred foam helmets for cragging, where my main concern was my head impacting a fixed object, and old-school helmets for lower angle alpine terrain where my main concern was getting hit by a rock. I only have one data point for the old-school helmets, but in that case a rock in the baseball-softball sized range tagged me just above the forehead with enough force to knock me clean off of my feet, and the helmet suspension straps left a bruises on my head that lasted for several days - but I don't recall any other injuries other than a mild headache that lasted for the rest of the day. In that particular case I felt like a big part of the reason that the damage wasn't worse was due to the fact that the helmet's rigid, and fairly slick surface deflected most of the energy rather than absorbing it.
  11. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    I have to confess I'm frankly puzzled by the assertion that there's anything in our collective national ideals, either as they are formally recorded in the Constitution/Bill of Rights/etc or informally understood as a set of informal norms that exists in some sort of ideological ether that obliges us to uncritically accept the proposition that we should grant any particular nation unfettered access to the most lethal weaponry ever devised by man - much less states that are unstable, hostile, totalitarian, or any combination of the three. Can you spell out what actual/tangible principles that you are referring to here that we're violating here? Do these principles apply if we're at war with these same states? What if we have legitimate concerns about their ability to secure them, that they'll be used for etc, etc, etc. How about weapons-systems that we developed but not longer maintain? We developed field-deployable chemical weapons systems. Who are we to deny anyone else the right to develop them and use them as they see fit just because we have chosen to decommission them? I think that even if Jean-Jacques Rousseau and Thomas Paine spawned a supernatural love-child composed of pure-ideology and had it mate with the collective utopian id hovering over Woodstock the supernatural being hatched from that pairing would scrutinize the idea proposition that our ideals oblige us to grant Iran unfettered access to nukes and say "Huh?" - but I'm willing to hear you out.
  12. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Thanks - that was interesting. My three second take is that you are a nihilist in theory but a utilitarian pragmatist in practice. I think that'a fine as a personal philosophy, even if the parts don't fit together - but I'm glad that it's generally been utilitarian types who have a chauvinistic partiality towards liberal western values rather than equalitarian nihilists that have had their hands on the red button. As an aside, one of the practical reasons that I oppose proliferation is that I think that the states that are most eager to get their hands on nukes these days have (correctly) concluded that all modern/liberal/western societies are no longer ruthless enough to go tit-for-tat in an ICBM exchange, much less retaliate in kind in the event of a nuke transferred from a hostile regime and set off in the Port of Long Beach by any of the non-state actors out to bring down the Great Satan. There are lots of reasons for that, and I think that's a very concrete sign of moral progress, but the days when a chap like Curtis LeMay is calling shots that can immolate entire cities with the public behind him is long behind us. Even if they decided not to target us for whatever reason, I have much less confidence that the principle of strategic deterrence will stay the hands of the folks running the show in the Gulf States, Pakistan, etc - for a variety of reasons. Anyhow - I have my own requirement for determining who gets to have nukes, which is the capacity to effectively design, build, and maintain a modern sewage system capable of handling 1/3 of their total output of caca without any foreign material or technical assistance. It's more of a necessary requirement than a sufficient one, but I find it frightening that there are already countries with nukes that fall short of that standard.
  13. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Sorry for the reverse thread drift, but the "Who are we to oppose country X getting nukes when we have them?" has always fascinated me, so I have a few questions. The least head-scratching argument for this position is that the logic of deterrence will hold no matter what the ideology or motives of the people who run the state. Is that your main argument? Even if you accept that proposition for the sake of argument, does the stability of the regime and the capacity to secure the weapons have any bearing on this position? The more exotic form of the argument from equality is that - hey, we're a state, and we have nukes - and they're a state, so it follows from that we have no legitimate basis for wanting to deny them access to nuclear weapons. Even if you play along and accept this premise, that still leaves room to inquire about the standard that should be used to grant access to the nuke-club. Does the state have to exist for a certain period of time, contain a certain number of souls, abides by a certain standard of behavior, command a certain number of square miles in order for this standard to apply, or does any entity that self-identifies as a state qualify under the "we're a state, they're a state, we have nukes, ergo...." argument"? If you are a committed nihilist, then I think it's possible to construct an argument that is logically consistent with the premise that there can never be any legitimate basis for denying any entity that self identifies as a state access to nukes, but as soon as you declare that a particular value or outcome is preferable to another, then you have a solid utilitarian argument for wanting to deny nukes to whichever state wants to use them to advance the stuff that you've conceded is worse than an alternative. E.g. if a state declares that humanity is a scourge to the planet and they've stated their intent to use nukes to kill off the human race, including themselves, and have a special breed of genetically engineered howler monkeys that they've bred for the job take over, as soon as you concede that plan is at least modestly less desirable than *not* killing off ~7 billion souls, and/or unlikely to be realized in practice, then there's your argument for keeping their hands off of the red button, no? Or is this just something that you haven't spent much time thinking about? That would make more sense to me, but if you actually have a defense of the "argument from equality" as it pertains to nukes chambered away in your noggin, I'd be interested to hear what it is.
  14. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    That's very helpful feedback that I'll give every bit of consideration that the author's standing as a practitioner of both arts warrants. Having said that, may I say that I'm personally *very* disappointed to see that you overlooked this opportunity to highlight the many obvious connections that your personal engagement in civil rights advocacy - including, but not limited to giving presentations to high-school students - and all of the insights derived therein have given you into the civic history of late 20th century Somalia in general and the role that the communist military coup in particular played in the genesis of that history in particular. They're every bit as clear as the other pretexts that have been used for that purpose in the past, so I hope that you'll re-think your reticence to call attention to them and commence pointing them out, post haste.
  15. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    I'm not sure if it qualifies as research or not, but if you're interested in the topic you can score a used copy of Michael Maren's book on Amazon for a penny + shipping. I can't say it'll be an enjoyable read, but I found it engrossing and illuminating when I read it ~15 years ago. It deals more with the unintended consequences of funneling fungible goods into a tribal/civil war-zone than precisely how Somalia devolved from a patch of her Brittanic Majesty's turf where you could enjoy high tea on a veranda overlooking the sea to a squalid hell-hole of the highest caliber in ~10 years, but it covers the broad strokes of the events that catalyzed the civil war, and it's fair to say that the classical liberalism espoused by the likes of Friedman and Hayek had little or no influence on the folks who presided over that endeavor.
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