[TR] Mt. Hood- Sunshine-Eliot headwall 11-6-4 11/6/2004

[OlegV]

Climb: Mt. Hood-Sunshine-Eliot headwall 11-6-4

 

Date of Climb: 11/6/2004

 

Trip Report:

I was climbing Sunshine yesterday. The snow was wet powder up to 9000 ft. One I got into shadow of North Face the snow conditions changed to frozen crust with patches of ice. By mistake, I changed my route and climbed through the rocky icy chimney ending up on a steep icy Eliot headwall. I had to traverse it to the left and up just next to the rocky headwall. At a time, I thought the thin crust is gonna go, but it hold me for just about thousand steps. Backclimbing down the Eliot Headwall was OK but time-consuming. The lower portion of this steep downclimb was very icy and without snow. The crevasses on Eliot glacier are passable with the firm snow snow bridges.

 

Gear Notes:

ice axe, crampons

 

Approach Notes:

subshine

[skyclimb]

Nice work!

[Kevin_Matlock]

Goog job Oleg. Glad you finally got your summit!

[barkernews]

Great job! And thanks for the route picture... that's pretty sweet. I'm assuming you climbed the red line?

[OlegV]

You are very welcome! I did climb the red line and downlimbed the red line. Thanks to the weather!

[MtnHigh]

Nice Climb!

You're one lucky dude to be alive. I watched you descending the Eliot as I was belaying from the top of the ice climb on the other side of the glacier. An hour later a huge avalance came down from the upper Eliot and traveled down to the upper serac field.

Edited November 8, 2004 by MtnHigh

[ivan]

nice redemption after you cold night 2 weeks ago!

 

so what's the green line?

[OlegV]

Thank you! Sorry Ivan, I had a typo in my previous post. I climbed the red line, and downclimbed the green line. This av could be a fracture from kicking steps. The snow felt kind of empty underneath the crust. I think I saw you on top of cliff when I was doing traverse, MtnHigh.