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Revision three of the Portland rock guide.


Jeepenfool95

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Wayne,

thank you very much!! This is great!

 

Based on what Mr. Baars emailed me, his ascent was in the early 50's via the south face (I will ask him to post the date here) and was the 2nd one of the tower (I guess that would be right before FA of NE face).

 

Don lives in KS now. Dave Jensen (2nd ascent of NE face route, is still in OR) is a photographer with his own site (that features an awseome shot of the tower by the way - will post link).

 

I'm surprised to see at least 3 ascents of the NE face (hard route on an already very hard tower!) & the fact that Bill Cummins climbed it 3 times! Dave Jensen also mentions that an initial attempt on that route ended up with 2 climbers falling to their deaths (supposedly featured in local newspapers at the time). That would make for some sobering statistics. Looking at the dates, seems like the tower was in fashion thru. the 60's.

 

So is the bleached tat visible from base atop P1 of south face yours Wayne? THere was also some tat on the "bolt" at base of south saddle direct.

 

Thank you very much again for the information!

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There was a register on St. Peters when we made the second ascent in 1947! Don't know what happened to it since. The second ascent was by the FA "Leuthold route" by myself (Don Baars), Floyd Richardson and Jim Hoskins. We used cotton rope, homemade pitons and a few homemade biners. It took several days camped at Little St. Peters to to get in solid pitrons in the 96-foot face, then went smoothly.

 

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When I got to the top of the 96' band the webbing was sitting on the ledge with the rap ring through it still. Completely rotted off, Also an entire layer of rock had worn off, because I saw no pin scars the entire way.I place only pins the whole way except for a tcu near the top. Also afriend of mine knew the guys that died. They were back cleaning pins on lead and one popped and they both went.

Also Dan, the Davis ramp is on the Black Spider, Hood

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The second ascent of St. Peters Dome was made by myself (Don Baars), Floyd Richardson and Jim Hoskins in 1947. There was a summit register then, and we did not remove it - where could it have gone? Anyway, I really appreciate your summit list! Has anyone climbed it since your 1994 solo?

Edited by Don79
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No oak at all, but a new forest is there that wasnt there on the old summit photo I have seen

Don, Proud effort on your part for sure, You might ask Dave Jensen. His was the first party in the new register, Jeff Thomas of the Mazama archive knew nothing of a record brought to the clubhouse . One of those mysteries, I guess. I dont believe it has seen another ascent, but maybe there is someone on this board ready to sack up?. Its not that bad just bring lots of bugaboos.

Ed Cooper of all people emailed me a couple of years ago asking me for beta.

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south face, west corner. My wife in yellow jacket is at start of what dodge calls south saddle direct. "Fuerrer's Cave" 30feet up the standard route is visible on left. Supposedly 5.4 to get to cave but I could not find that passage? Again this is all per dodge book - Wayne & Don can correct me here.

tmp.jpg

Edited by fgw
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