Revision three of the Portland rock guide.

[fgw]

Wayne,

thank you very much!! This is great!

 

Based on what Mr. Baars emailed me, his ascent was in the early 50's via the south face (I will ask him to post the date here) and was the 2nd one of the tower (I guess that would be right before FA of NE face).

 

Don lives in KS now. Dave Jensen (2nd ascent of NE face route, is still in OR) is a photographer with his own site (that features an awseome shot of the tower by the way - will post link).

 

I'm surprised to see at least 3 ascents of the NE face (hard route on an already very hard tower!) & the fact that Bill Cummins climbed it 3 times! Dave Jensen also mentions that an initial attempt on that route ended up with 2 climbers falling to their deaths (supposedly featured in local newspapers at the time). That would make for some sobering statistics. Looking at the dates, seems like the tower was in fashion thru. the 60's.

 

So is the bleached tat visible from base atop P1 of south face yours Wayne? THere was also some tat on the "bolt" at base of south saddle direct.

 

Thank you very much again for the information!

[fgw]

Photo below is displayed as a link (All copyrights & credit belong to David Jensen of http://djensenphotography.com

):

 

Edited September 20, 2007 by fgw

[ivan]

that pic looks up the north east face, yes?

[dan_forester]

thanks for the history, Wayne. I didn't know you'd soloed it - all I can say is I'm impressed. It looks like a real horror show!

 

Is the "davis ramp" that ramp-looking-like thing in the picture (on what I'm guessing is the sw corner)?

[dan_forester]

that pic looks up the north east face, yes?

 

I was thinking 180 degrees different - isn't that beacon in the background? and Adams?

 

 

[fgw]

It is the SW corner.

[dan_forester]

that pic looks up the north east face, yes?

 

I was thinking 180 degrees different - isn't that beacon in the background? and Adams?

 

 

oh, and the COLUMBIA RIVER? Ivan, did you take too much poison oak medication?

[Don79]

There was a register on St. Peters when we made the second ascent in 1947! Don't know what happened to it since. The second ascent was by the FA "Leuthold route" by myself (Don Baars), Floyd Richardson and Jim Hoskins. We used cotton rope, homemade pitons and a few homemade biners. It took several days camped at Little St. Peters to to get in solid pitrons in the 96-foot face, then went smoothly.

 

[ivan]

duh...guess i am LOOKING towards the north-east in that picture though...

[wayne]

When I got to the top of the 96' band the webbing was sitting on the ledge with the rap ring through it still. Completely rotted off, Also an entire layer of rock had worn off, because I saw no pin scars the entire way.I place only pins the whole way except for a tcu near the top. Also afriend of mine knew the guys that died. They were back cleaning pins on lead and one popped and they both went.

Also Dan, the Davis ramp is on the Black Spider, Hood

[Don79]

The second ascent of St. Peters Dome was made by myself (Don Baars), Floyd Richardson and Jim Hoskins in 1947. There was a summit register then, and we did not remove it - where could it have gone? Anyway, I really appreciate your summit list! Has anyone climbed it since your 1994 solo?

Edited September 21, 2007 by Don79

[ivan]

how hopelessly covered in poison oak do you think it is?

[wayne]

No oak at all, but a new forest is there that wasnt there on the old summit photo I have seen

Don, Proud effort on your part for sure, You might ask Dave Jensen. His was the first party in the new register, Jeff Thomas of the Mazama archive knew nothing of a record brought to the clubhouse . One of those mysteries, I guess. I dont believe it has seen another ascent, but maybe there is someone on this board ready to sack up?. Its not that bad just bring lots of bugaboos.

Ed Cooper of all people emailed me a couple of years ago asking me for beta.

[fgw]

Wayne & Don - thank you for posting info on this thing!

 

2 years ago, the landslide area provided a nice clear path most of the way. Last fall, the landslide sprouted a brand new (and seemingly dense) young forest.

[fgw]

south face, west corner. My wife in yellow jacket is at start of what dodge calls south saddle direct. "Fuerrer's Cave" 30feet up the standard route is visible on left. Supposedly 5.4 to get to cave but I could not find that passage? Again this is all per dodge book - Wayne & Don can correct me here.

Edited September 21, 2007 by fgw

[ivan]

intriguing - where's the access point? i'm interested in any adventure currently that's close to my house and doesn't involve my skin becoming reminscent of night of the living fucking dead

[wayne]

Just follow the railroad spikes E, They stick out a foot , There was one sitting in the cave so I drove it in the start.

[ivan]

any other useful tidbits for the titillated wannabe-adventurist? i've yet to be able to even discern from beacon yet - probably an advanced effect of inhaling turkey-vulture pestilence there...

[wayne]

I recall going up from the saddle on the usual choss. I dont remember it being all that bad