Mt. Washington rap lengths?

[jared.c.rogers]

Anybody know how long the three raps off Mt. Washington are? I'd rather bring a 30m than a 60m if they're short.

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

 

[KirkW]

3 Raps?

 

I'm pretty sure a 30m will leave you wishing you had brought at least a 50.

[jared.c.rogers]

The Mountain Project route description indicates three rap stations.

 

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/oregon/mt_washington/106204660

 

Atreides, how many did you do? You're probably right about the length though.

[KirkW]

If I remember correctly (and I probably don't) we downclimbed from the summit to the last rap station because it looked like rapping would bring down all kinds of choss when we pulled the rope. I thought this was kinda standard on Washington . The climbing was easy and the exposure pretty mild other than the first pitch which was the only one we rapped. It too could be downclimbed but it looks scary from above.

 

I'll check my memory for you as I'm headed out there this weekend.

[ivan]

agreed - the last rap is all you need to worry about - it would have been an easy downclimb, but it is quite exposed

 

had to do a bunch of emergency raps on a 20 meter kids'r'us rope once - would be very happy never to have to repeat that horrific experience

[KirkW]

had to do a bunch of emergency raps on a 20 meter kids'r'us rope once

 

Yeah I once brought 30 ft of 8mm cordelette with me to climb Mt Yoran "just in case". Luckily no ropes are needed for Yoran but the stupidity of carrying that rope with me that day became self evident when I realized that I'd need 30 ft of cord just to wrap something big enough to serve as an anchor.

 

More recently I climbed Thielsen this spring with a bit of snow and ice on it. We brought a rope with but found out at the wrong time that a 30 is pretty worthless on Thielson for getting down unless you wanna fix it and leave it. It got my buddy back down to the notch but I couldn't live with the shame of leaving a rope on Thielson so I rapped to a good ledge and then downclimbed through the one awkward move because of the conditions. Spicy! Now, I'll take a 60 or nothing at all for the volcanos.

[jared.c.rogers]

Thanks for that info Atreides and Ivan.

 

So nobody knows the length of the last rap?

[ivan]

Thanks for that info Atreides and Ivan.

 

So nobody knows the length of the last rap?

my memory is that you'd want something like a 50 m rope

[KirkW]

The first pitch rap is this long...

 

http://www.summitpost.org/image/62838/150570/dkantola-rappelling-the-first.html

[jared.c.rogers]

Cool. 60m it is. Thanks again!

[rocky_joe]

a 60 m rope is more than enough, you'll be fine. I'm doing it tomorrow, so that'll refresh my memory and I'll let you know once I'm back.

[jared.c.rogers]

Actually I'll probably see you up there. I'm sure 60m is enough too, I was just hoping I could shed 4 pounds and carry the 30m instead.

 

 

[rocky_joe]

Think I took a 30m last time, not sure though. Not really keen to lug a 60m either.

[rocky_joe]

Just checked my photos from last year, looks like we got away with a 30 m just fine. So I'll bring a 30 and maybe I'll see you up there.

 

-Joe

[KirkW]

Looks like it's gonna be a busy weekend on Washington.

[jared.c.rogers]

Well hey, if we both bring 30s and are dead wrong, we can rescue each other.

 

 

Thanks for that info, Joe.

 

[robertjoy]

Climbed it with my (beginner) wife two weeks ago. We had a 60m rope, and that took us to the notch with about 6 meters excess (3 meters on both ends. This would indicate to me that a 50 meter rope might require some downclimbing. Thirty meters will not make it.

[jfs1978]

You don't have to rap all the way to the notch. Just rap to the top of the ramp - unexposed easy down-climb from there.

 

And the whole down-climb from the rap anchor looks worse from above than it really is.

[jared.c.rogers]

Just did it yesterday. Ended up taking a 60m which was great for a 3-person team (one on each end and me in the middle).

 

Only pitched two of the sections above the notch (1st and 2nd not including an easy scramble between). Scrambled climbers left to the summit around the HUGE Mazama team taking forever on their fixed lines. No criticism of the climbers here, or their commitment to safety, just wish the non-profit organization would bring less people, or at least more experienced climbers on a route that is prone to bottlenecks.

 

Didn't rap off the first or second station; fairly easy down-climb, although a rap off the first sling would have been safer and probably quicker too.

 

After a total of two hours waiting for the Mazamas at the top of the first pitch, we rapped all the way down to the notch in ten minutes.

 

Met Rocky_Joe on the summit who brought a 30m as promised--nice guy by the way, and climbing with a quality team. The 30 seemed to work out just fine for the raps, as long as you're willing to down-climb the easiest part of the first pitch above the notch just like jfs1978 said. Joe, did your friends have any trouble rapping off the summit with that length by the way? Didn't look like it.

 

In hindsight a 30m would have been just fine for our level too, since the middle man could have self-belayed on a fixed line between the leader and 3rd man, but 60m was probably quicker for three guys on the ascent, which is important on a busy day.

 

All told, good times on the choss. Thanks for everybody's input on my original question, hope this info helps someone in the future.

 

 

[JohnGo]

A 50 meter rope works fine for the climb.

 

Most parties find they require only 1 rap to the ground, the other 2 higher pitches are 4th classy and can be downclimbed by most.

 

JG