mountaineering boots with roomy toe box

[vsigler]

OK...fairly specific topic here, so I am helping someone can provide a little input. I currently own a pair of LaSportiva Trango Alps, and previously a few pairs of LS Makalus. In each case, the boots fit great with the exception of the toe box. While a wider toe box would have been great, in each boot, the height of the toe box (i.e., the vertical space in the toe box) seemed very limited, and has resulted in some constriction and discomfort, especially on descent. Does anyone know of a mountaineering boot that is roomier in the toe box than those listed above? For reference, I climb the same stuff everyone else does, like glaciated routes in the Cascades, and the occasional steep couloir. Thanks.

[jfs1978]

I have a wide forefoot and deal with the same issue on several La Sportiva boots. Some models work but most do not. Scarpa has become my go-to for the most part. Some Lowa and Salewa and Millet also fit well. It comes down to spending some time trying on everything you can get your hands on though. Every company's basic last is different. Scarpa's Rebel series has been a good fit in the range of warmth you are looking at.

 

Two other things to keep in mind. I change out and mix and match insoles on every pair of boots I own - frequently. I'll swap insoles depending on the climb and how much of a "performance fit" I want based on how technical the climbing is. Secondly, I wear fairly thin socks almost all the time and rely on the boot to keep my feet warm. The days of heavy, thick wool socks to boost the warmth of a boot are gone imho. A bulky sock reduces sensitivity and takes up a bunch of space around your toes especially.

 

Hope that helps.

[DPS]

I have the same problem with La Sportivas, so I have switched to Scarpas and have found a much better fit. Scarpa Mont Blanc is their current all mountain boot, on par with the LS Nepal.

[pup_on_the_mountain]

I started with a pair of La sportiva Glacier boots that were the same size as my street-shoe size (didn't know any better ). While they climbed fine on the way up, I used to regularly get my toes banged up on the way down. I was any way looking to upgrade to a "more advanced" boot, and someone here on CC was selling a pair of LS Nepal Evos a half size up (42_2/3 instead of 42, to be exact). I was able to try them out before buying, and found the fit to be perfect! I've switched to the Nepal Evos, and I no longer get my toes banged as I used to with the Glaciers. Indeed, I've not worn my Glaciers since I made the switch (yes, I wear the Evos even on pee wee climbs; don't want to buy another pair of lighter boots). Even though the Evos are a size up, they fit great on my heels (and also, in general).

 

So, if you really like the LS boots, you might want to try the next bigger size.

 

I must add, though, that I have Koflachs in the same street-shoe size (as the Glaciers), and they are much roomier. I won't be surprised if the fit varies even within LS boots - needless to say, try them out for sure before buying. Good luck!

[JasonG]

What year of Trango Alps do you have? I just got the new ones a few months ago and they have a noticeably roomier toebox than the last iteration. They are really good boot, much better than the older version.

 

If those still don't work (I'd try them on before ruling them out based on the fit of older LS models), Scarpa are a lot roomier. Emphasis on a lot, in my experience.

[vsigler]

Thanks for all of the feedback. To answer JasonG's question, I bought my Trango Alps at least six years ago (my boots last a long time, as I live in Ohio and only get to climb a couple of times a year). They are pretty worn now but I really do like them aside from the snug box. I will definitely look into another, new pair, especially if they are a little more roomy. I am going to look at Scarpas too.

[obwan]

Have you tried on the Lowa GTX-EVO. Boots all have their pro's and con's, fit is of course the # one issue - these seem to feel ok at a half size larger as I have a wider forefoot due to many run miles.

[JasonG]

I think the new version of the Alp will be perfect for you then. I had the same complaint with my 6ish year old pair and I absolutely love the new Alp.

 

Best boot I've ever owned, and I've owned or tried on pretty much everything out there in its class.

 

Assuming they fit, of course!