Eldorado to Torment traverse?

[Dave B]

Good morning,

 

A buddy and I are heading to WA in mid-July with plans on a 3-day trip.

 

One option we're considering is the Torment-Forbidden traverse (other option is N.butt on Mt. Goode) but given the normal two-day trip time for T-F we're considering trying to link up a 3rd or 4th peak.

 

The first thought I had was to head up the Boston Basin approach to Eldorado, then traverse to Torment and then to Forbidden. Night one would be before Eldorado, night two would be at the standard bivy for the T-F.

 

What is the feasibility of this route? Especially the traverse between Eldorado and Torment. Google Earth makes it look like it goes pretty easily, but that's google earth. I also can't find any info on google nor do Beckey's books explicitly describe this traverse.

 

I'd also be interested to hear about descending the East Ridge on Forbidden. I know the standard descent for climbing that route is the west ridge, but descending that then tagging Boston and Sahale is a consideration as well (???).

 

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give!

 

 

[Pete_H]

Descending e ridge of forbidden is totally doable. Just a bit longer and more involved than the w ridge. But walking over and tagging Boston and sahale from there would be cool then you can descend sahale arm.

[Bronco]

The traverse to Eldorado is commonly done as a ski tour in early season, probably due to the glaciers being pretty broken later in the summer. Here's a recent TR: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=36253.from1460395852#new

 

I may be wrong, but my perception is that the traverse from Forbidden to Eldorado is a long ways. Have you guys considered doing the N. Face on Buckner? It's a pleasant steep snow climb in a great setting that you probably wouldn't see many other folks and relatively close by.

 

I personally haven't done Boston Peak because of its reputation as the chossiest peak in the area.

[Dave B]

Pete - are there obvious rap stations at the key points along that ridge? We're hoping to get by with just carrying a 50 m but it appears the crux sections are shorter than 25m, yeah? Descending Sahale Arm to Cascade Pass was exactly what I was thinking if that was a viable descent route

 

Bronco - thanks for the TR, that does seem like a pretty solid hike, maybe a bit more than either my buddy and I are interested in. Buckner N. Face is definitely intriguing as well and could be a great alternative from a camp at Sahale Arm.

 

Thanks again for your input!

[Pete_H]

I don't remember too many rap stations or making many rappels. I think how much you use the rope would depend on what you are comfortable down climbing. It's a ridge so not super straight forward to descend. At any rate I think you'd be more than fine with a 50m rope because any raps would be pretty short. You could always descend w ridge too if you weren't into it.

 

Boston is definitely chossy but I think there's a pretty easy scrambly route on it.

[JasonG]

Typically when you descend off the east side of Forbidden you use what is called the "East Ledges". Five 25-30m raps off the summit straight fall line, then scramble along nearly level until you can climb back up to the notch that starts the Direct East Ridge route. Warning: You must be comfortable traveling across loose, exposed, 3rd and 4th class terrain without much in the way of protection (best to do unroped). A slip here would most likely be fatal. For folks used to such things, the East Ledges aren't terrible, but they demand respect.

 

This is why most descend the West Ridge.

[mthorman]

+1 to everything Jason said. I have descended the "east ledges" twice and it wasn't too bad if you are comfortable in 3rd and 4th class terrain unroped. However it isn't quite a cakewalk either. When I climbed the East Ridge itself there were several sections I would not have wanted to down climb and there weren't any rappels to reverse the ridge itself. More from my trip can be seen in the following link. Note there is a picture my partner took of the east ledges descent. Gives you an idea of what it is like after the rappelling stops.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1140853/TR_Forbidden_Peak_East_Ridge_7#Post1140853

[JasonG]

Here is the photo from the mthorman's TR:

 

[Sidviscous]

The previous responses have described the east ledges pretty well but I'll add a couple of notes: I think we did 6 mostly vertical raps off the summit to the east ledges. A 50m rope might leave you a little short. This TR has a pic of the rappels: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1129228.'>http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1129228. Don't get sucked into ascending too soon while traversing the ledges. A party ahead of us did and had to backtrack. As JasonG said keep a fairly level traverse following the path of least resistance until you reach the gully. Also, my partner was uncomfortable being unroped on the ledges so we simul-climbed. I found plenty of blocks to sling to make it reasonably safe and efficient.

 

These guys did a three day TFT + Sharkfin and Boston a couple years back: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1129228

[Dave B]

Thanks for all of the advice on east ledges. I had previously dismissed this as a descent route given that Summit Post et al strongly discourage it - hence, my interest in possibly descending the east ridge *direct* route.

 

One last question: do the east ledges tend to hold snow into July? I see they look quite dry in mthroman's TR pic, but that was last year which I know was a deplorable snow year for the PNW.

[JasonG]

Most years, by mid-July it will be snow free with the possible exception of the exit gully (this isn't a problem as you can work around the snow patches).

 

A lot depends on the spring weather, but I would say you could plan on it being in fairly good shape.

 

Have fun, it is a real classic.

[dave schultz]

I did TFT after Buckner a couple years ago:

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1126562

 

IIRC, 2014 was a good snow year, I think probably similar to what you have this year. Here are some of my thought for your timing and plan:

 

1) In early July 2014 we were the first party on the TFT for the season, so there was no pre-placed trail. Probably not a big deal, but something to think about. With the good snow season thus far, if you go in early July you may also be the first party on the route.

 

2) We also had a fairly challenging bergschrund after the rappel on to the north side glacier. We got around it, but it could pose a significant challenge if it continues to be a problem. I don't know how the schrund behaved later that season or last season, others could likely give you more information. But, as the first party on the route it was a big moment for us.

 

3) Speed, we were a full 2.5 days on the route, mostly due to routefinding decisions, etc. I would consider the consequences of that same time and your trip planning. Perhaps TFT to Buckner or TFT to Boston/Sahale instead of doing Elderado to TFT.

 

I found the link up for Buckner to TFT to be quite enjoyable.

 

Good Luck,

 

Dave