KaskadskyjKozak Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Trip: Mount Hood - Leuthold Couloir Date: 4/10/2016 Trip Report: I met up with three friends to climb Hood this weeekend. Originally we were hoping to get the Sandy Headwall route but were concerned about how this would go with the high freezing levels all week, and staying at about 10K over the weekend. We met up at T-Line at about 2pm, and headed up to Illumination Saddle. Hood looking damn fine from the parking lot: Approaching camp: This is why I climb. Well, one reason: We took our sweet time getting there and set up camp while the sun set. Based on the postholing we did on the final traverse we ruled out the Sandy and settled on Leuthold. With the shorter route, we slept in to a luxurious 5 am and did not even get moving until after 6:30, mostly thanks to the serialized blue-bagging chain reaction that occurred in the morning. The snow was surprisingly firm - it had been cold and very windy all night - definitely below freezing. Starting out in the morning: A party of 2 had passed our camp around 4:15 am, and another party of 3 passed us in the route. Other than that, no traffic. Rime ice/snow fall was minimal. No sloughs. Perfect conditions, really. View up from above the Hour Glass: View down from the Queen's Chair: Ridge traverse money shot: We descended the standard route around noon. It appears that the Pearly Gates is back in - the Hog's Back was shifted a few years ago. We only had one short traffic jam with 2 skiers and then 4 climbers to get back to the Hog's Back. I have no complaints - this was a great weekend to be on Hood! Descending the Pearly Gates: Life is good: Squeal like a pig! Gear Notes: In these conditions... can be easily solo'd. If you want, bring a glacier rope and 4 pickets. We all had a 2nd tool which made for comfort and fun. Approach Notes: We hoofed it - no floatation was required, but the snow got nasty soft/postholing between the Palmer and the Saddle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 shoulda done the reid, it's even kewler... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 shoulda done the reid, it's even kewler... I did that last time I was down there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 done the cooper spur or sunshine yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 done the cooper spur or sunshine yet? Nope, not yet. Sandy has been in my sights for a long time. I'd like to get up Devil's Kitchen in winter, and the N face... maybe, someday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaredSilly Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 What no picnic on the Queen's Chair?? Ya gotta stop there at least for the views. BTW a couple of years ago we camped at the saddle, did Leuthold one day then Sandy Glacier Headwall the next. That was good fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 i've been jaded against the sandy ever since it tried to kill me it sure is a looooong way around the mtn to do it too the cooper spur in spring is magic - hike in one day and put a camp in near tie-in rock, the next morning's a simple frolic up the climbing face and then back down - bring plenty of whiskey... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugetgold Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 I was in a party of two that climbed Reid headwall that same day - we may have been the party that passed your camp by 4:15 by your time, though we thought it was more like 4:45. In any case, I think we probably got pelted by a lot more ice than you, judging from your report, and from the Leuthold party of three we talked to on the summit. Regardless, wonderful photos, and glad you had a good time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 I was in a party of two that climbed Reid headwall that same day - we may have been the party that passed your camp by 4:15 by your time, though we thought it was more like 4:45. In any case, I think we probably got pelted by a lot more ice than you, judging from your report, and from the Leuthold party of three we talked to on the summit. Regardless, wonderful photos, and glad you had a good time. Hey, cool. Yeah it could have been 4:45... who knows. Glad you had a good time up there as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptown_Climber1 Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 That picture of I-Rock and the saddle is stunning.....wow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 That picture of I-Rock and the saddle is stunning.....wow. Thanks, man! I also got this one a few minutes later on my iPhone: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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