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[TR] HOOD - North Face - RIght Gull 2/25/2016


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Trip: HOOD - North Face - Right Gull


Date: 2/25/2016


Trip Report:

North Face on Hoodie. It is where wolfs are real and women become men. A legit alpine route that never disappoints. Actually, it disappoints a lot. It might be fun and easy in some conditions, and hard and scary in others. My success rate on this route in winter is not great, thanks to high winds, and miserably long and sleep-deprived approach that keeps kicking my ass over and over again.


Nothing new this time. The Cloud Cap road is conveniently closed and the splitboard/slow shoes approach from the Tilly Jane TH @ 3800' to the face took 7 hrs from the car. My slowest record of all. We run into a lot of deep isothermic snow below the T-line and the spindrifted powder on the Eliot and were breaking trail for eternity it seemed.


Checking in at the Tilly Jane A-frame around 2 AM:



Cameron on the upper Eliot gl.:



Cascades panorama at sunrise:



North Face from the upper Eliot gl.:



Cameron at the base of the shrund:



I did not bother to look for the easier options either on the right or left side cuz I am lazy, so I crossed the shrund in the center on some sketchy snowbridge:



The funnel through the first ice step was producing morale-breaking micro-avalanches threatening to kill so we belayed that pitch with the usual belay on the left behind the prow.


The splitboarders are stoked at the base of the first ice step:



Cameron heading up the first ice step:




The Sea of alpine ice higher in the gully that we simul-climbed below the second ice step:



Myself heading up the second ice step. Phat.





The stretch from the top of the second ice step to the summit was time-consuming: a lot of thin snice veneer over rock ready to come down at any moment. More simul-climbing to follow.



The summit pyramid:



The summit cornice:




Finally, we crawled on to the summit:



The descent down the south side was in the dark. Pearly Gates had recently spit out an ice avalanche so we went around over the hot rocks:








Gear Notes:

8 screws, 1 Spectre, 2 pickets, 60 m rope


Approach Notes:

Tilly Jane TH, splitboard, slow shoes.

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