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Helmets


Terry

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there are places where one should consider seriously useing a helmet, vantage, and in the alpine. I usually dont wear one when theres little loose rock

Has anybody tried those petzle helmets? they seem lighter so do they work? Better than nothin I suppose, they seem like a good cragging helmet but I wouldent wear one in the alpine better to use the old bomber. okay cheers, with a pbr nic

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I don't know how many of you have had your life saved by a helmet. But, about twenty years ago I took a direct hit by a softball from space on Mt. Kitchner while unroped. It shattered my helmet and really rung my bell, but it obviously did it's job. I never used to wear a helmet while rock climbing, but all that has changed. Can't see any reason not too anymore. I wear one almost all the time. Top roping and straight up sport climbs are the exception. I use one of those Kong Scarab helmets. Very light, very comfortable and I don't mind wearing it. Having been in some bad ass situations and never seen or heard of anybody being hit twice, I feel a one shot helmet is worth the risk. Big heavy helmets are uncomfortable and I know I wouldn't wear it.

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While climbing on Sunshine Wall at Vantage last spring I knocked a rock off at the chains. It was a smaller rock but fell about 70' and landed right on top of my wife's noggin. Luckily, she was wearing a helmet. I doubt it would have caused serious damage but at a minimum would have hurt real bad and probably needed stitches. I know it would have ended an otherwise pleasant day of climbing. Moral to the story = We are the dorks wearing helmets all the time.

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I seem to wear my helmet more these days, but still not always. I was not wearing one during my accident this spring where I hit my head twice, hard on the way down a rock strewn gully. I was amazed that I did not split my head it two, it's amazing how tough the human body can be.

My rule of thumb has always been:

Always wear a helmet while ice climbing and wear a helmet at cliffs/crags that are prone to rockfall.

Since I could care less what people think when I am out climbing, I don't ever not wear one because I think that I am looking like a dork. The main reason I don't wear a helmet is if it's really hot. Since I get fatigued quickly in the heat, especially my head cooking inside a helmet.

My votes for helmets are the Petzl Ecrin and Ecrin Roc. I wear the Ecrin for ice (no longer made) and the Ecrin Roc for rock/alpine, the Roc is nice since it's easy to adjust.

We've been through the foam/plastic helmet discussion before and I still say plastic is the only way to go, since it's more durable and will last longer, besides most foam helmets are designed more for an impact like crashing while biking, ect.

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I am constantly amazed at the folks who are out there climbing without a helmet. To wear a helmet is, of course, your own choice, but the only place I climb without a helmet is in the climbing gym. Regardless of rockfall/icefall potential, you just never know when you might get flipped by the rope or unintentionally whip into a corner and smack your noggin. I don't know too many people who don't use helmets. I won't climb in iffy areas with someone who isn't wearing a helmet. Catching one in the brain bucket two thirds up Goode puts not only the climber, but anyone else around in danger. I've always thought it very uncool to go without. What really irks me is how few helmets you see in the climbing mags. One image in particular was of Topher Donahue climbing somewhere in the Bugaboos. The picture was taken from above with him helmetless. I looked closer and damned if his helmet was clipped to his harness. I don't know if he took it off to mug for the camera or what, but "WHAT THE FUCK!".

I know there are some pretty experienced folks out there who don't wear helemts. I seem to remember Jim Nelson saying he didn't like wearing one and he's all over the Cascades. A couple years ago, I had the pleasure of meeting Jim Donini in Ouray. When I started talking to him I noticed his hair was red. I thought it was colored like Twight's but he said he had caught it from some ice in the ice park. I asked him why he wasn't wearing a helmet and he said he didn't like them. He had just gotten back from Patagonia. While on the descent from one of the peaks, he had forgotten to buckle his helmet, looked down and watched his helmet sail into oblivion. He didn't seem like he was in any rush to get another one once he was back in the states even after having his skull split by an ice chunk. I saw him later in the week climbing in the ice park helmetless. Go figure.

Anyway, I personally always wear a helmet, even while toproping. People skoff at the thought, but how many times have you seen the belayer at your local crags get pulled off the ground or smacked into the wall when the leader took a fall? I've seen it plenty. If the belayer loses control, your SOL. A helmet might not keep you from major injury, but then again, it just might. I'll stack the odds in my favor. I want to be climbing for a long time.

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A story about helmets for those who have nothing better to do with our lives on a nice sunny afternoon when we should be on the summit of Mt. Index or similar places:

The first time I ever wore a helmet mt biking I became a fan - you see, I was showing off for my girlfriend (hey ladies!)at the top of this long ass logging road by riding over the top of these bushes on the side of the road, just like a little monster truck RRRRRRRRRR!!!. Pretty soon, the other guys are tired of my antics and want to race down to the truck. I tighten my chin strap on my shiny new helmet and launch into the pedals furiously shifting gears unitl I am out in front with my brother in law gaining on me. mad.gif Problem was - one of those little bushes I was crushing earlier thought it would be funny to release the quick release on my front wheel and not mention it. I hit a little bump in the road and went airborn - except the front tire, it just kept rolling right on down the road. shocked.gif We figured I was doing about 35 mph when I landed on top of my head (my ninja roll didn't quite work). confused.gif The impact broke my helmet all to pieces but I lived (duh) w/ a seperated shoulder. I didn't win the race either. frown.gif

2 lessons to take home for the kids

1. dont show off because in the end you look like a moron flying throught the air with a broken bicycle and have to walk a long way to the trucks.

2. wear your helmet especially if you are showing off or have been earlier that day.

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Caveman -

I suggest a simple non-scientific test. Have a buddy climb a 10' stepladder and drop rocks on your head(no helmet). Gradually increase the size of the rocks he is dropping until it starts to hurt real bad, draws blood or knocks you unconscious. If rocks this size or larger are going to be in the area you are climbing, wear a helmet.

On a more serious note - Helmets are like a lot of things in climbing. A lot of it is based on personal experiences. I confess that I do not wear a helmet 100% of the time but I probably do 90% of the time(except Vantage - all the time there) I have a Petzl Ecrin Roc and it is comfortable to the point where I don't mind it. If you're not going to wear a helmet, understand and accept the risk.

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