[TR] Eldorado Peak, NW Ice Couloir - 4/10/2015

[mthorman]

Trip: Eldorado Peak, NW Ice Couloir

 

Date: 4/10/2015

 

Trip Report:

With a couple days off and a small weather window Duncan and I set our sights on Eldorado Peak. Our main objective was the Northwest Ice Couloir but with such a long approach we decided to try something on Dorado needle as well. Unfortunately we made a grave error in judgement and didn't bring skis or snowshoes. As a result were were postholling from ankle to knee the entire way above 5000 feet. It slowed us down so much that all we ended up doing was the NW Ice couloir. Oh well, I guess lesson learned.

 

Looking down the Eldorado Glacier on the approach. Johannesburg and other mountains in the North Cascades dot the skyline.

 

 

We had gone light on gear to save weight so no tent. But Duncan brought this little tarp and we made quite the cozy camp. We camped at the base of the east ridge of Eldorado and spent an hour watching the mountains and resting.

 

 

For the afternoon we took off to see about climbing Dorado Needle. But with the hard work of breaking trail it took us 2 hours to get to the col at the Tepeh towers. We looked over at Dorado and realized that it would just take too long to keep going. We wanted to be fresh for the NW Ice couloir the next day.

 

 

Since we still had a little time we decided to break trail to the Eldorado-Dean Col to save time in the morning. Here Duncan breaks trail across the Inspiration Glacier.

 

Duncan overlooking the Marble Creek drainage from the Eldorado-Dean Col. We found the gully to down climb and then returned to camp for the night.

 

During the night the wind picked up and starting blowing snow into our little shelter. We were a little worried that maybe the predicted storm had come early, but just after 6am we were treated to this sunrise in the North Cascades. It was definitely overcast but it didn't look like the big storm front.

 

We left camp about 7am and followed our tracks back to the Eldorado-Dean Col. After down climbing a bit we found a rap station with some old pitons. A single rap but us down to steep snow. From there it was a short traverse through deep snow to the base of the couloir.

 

Finally getting close to the base of the route we could see it was full of snow. The final snow slope to access the couloir was deep powder and took awhile to break trail.

 

Finally reaching the 1st constriction we stopped to get a stance. I put in a screw and started out on the lead. I quickly climbed into the clouds and fought spindrift all the way. We ended up doing it all in 1 long simul block. It was mostly knee deep snow with a few nice sections of neve and a couple ice steps. There was no mixed climbing although there were a couple of snow/ice gullies up to 4 feet deep.

 

Near the top there was a junction and without being able to see more than 30 feet due to clouds I picked the right gully. It turned near vertical at the top with breakable crust over soft snow. Here Duncan follows up the last steep section to the top through the clouds. From here it was easy hike to the summit of Eldorado. As luck would have it the sun was out on the summit and down the east ridge. Spent a few minutes enjoying the view before returning to camp. Packed up and headed back to the car.

 

 

Gear Notes:

6 screws, 3 cams (BD #1, 2, 3), 6 nuts. Used 4 screws and 3 cams.

 

Approach Notes:

Lots of deep snow. Don't make our mistake and take some kind of floatation.

[dougd]

Nice to finally see what the view's like from up there...

 

And, good to see you're getting your climbs in Marlon.

 

d

 

 

[NickM]

Awesome photos. Hoping to be in that area soon, with some definite flotation. I'm curious about the trail/approach conditions; it sounds like snowline's around 5k, how's life below? I haven't been on this approach route and am wondering what level of shwack/scrambling to expect. Thanks!

[JasonG]

It is pretty much a trail with minimal 'schwacking. Stay climber's right in the boulder fields and look for cairns. There will be a lot of fresh snow below 5K after this past weekend. I heard maybe 1-3 feet 3K and up. My brother was on Lookout mountain Sunday and reported waist deep wallowing at 4.5K. I can see the snow on Cultus Mountain out my window right now.....

[goran]

Nice work persisting in the wallow!

 

What route were you going for on Dorado Needle? Is there a good winter line, or just some adventure on the rock routes?

[mthorman]

Nick, see Jason's post about the approach beta.

 

Goran, there isn't a particular good winter line that I know of. We were looking at something on the south face/buttress or a backup plan of the NE Ridge. Either way it would have been some mixed fun!

[JasonG]

Oh, and nice work on the climb! Sounded strenuous, what a difference a few weeks make.