Best lightweight shoe/boot for easy mountaineering

[Seraphim]

I currently use La Sportiva Glaciers, and have used the Trango S for general mountaineering for a long time.

 

I currently use these on a lot of day trips, but I am looking for something even lighter that I can use some aluminum crampons with.

 

For easy 1 day trips (Sahale, Olympus in a long day, scrambles, small Glaciers, etc....), what is a good light weight shoe/boot you guys would recommend?

 

Any recommendations are welcome. Thanks!

 

 

Edited September 10, 2014 by Seraphim

[Jason4]

I tried on a pair of Scarpa Rebels (the regular version, not the integrated gaiter version) a couple of weeks ago and I think those will be my next pair of mountain boots. That way I can keep all of my crampons as step-in only and share 'pons between my AT boots and my mountain boots.

[GerritD]

The market is being flooded with ultralight boots that still have a welt in the front or back. Scarpa Rebel, Mammut Mamook, Salewa Pro, La Sportiva Trango EXT EVO Light GTX (wordy), and a few others are extremely light but still work for "real" climbing.

 

Those are not a big weight savings over the Trango S so it sounds like what you really want is a high top approach shoe.

[DPS]

For what you want to use them for I can't think of an appropriate boot that is lighter than the Trango S. You could do an approach shoe, but for glaciers any larger than say Stuart or Colchuck Glaiers, I would want a real boot with a semi rigid sole.

[ryanb]

I have the salewa mountain trainer mid which are pretty light, pretty capable and flexible enough to be more comfortable then a true mountaineering boot on long approaches but just stiff enough to edge or kick a few steps. Bought mine at second ascent a couple of years ago.

 

If you want to go to a shoe check out the sportiva c-lites which are a great high traction trail running shoe with a super aggressive tread that works well scrambling on loose rock, non icey snow etc. I've used them with yaktrack and kahtoola's for running icy trails and scrambled a fair amount of rock in them but not used full crampons or done anything too exposed.

[Woodcutter]

There's a scarpa boot which looks interesting. The Tech ascent GTX.

http://www.scarpa.com/tech-ascent-gtx

[BootsandPants]

The one having the most fun.

 

 

 

Sorry, couldn't resist.

 

I've been using Garmont Dragontails the past few seasons for almost all of my summer objectives where I might need crampons. I think of it as a lightweight, low top, mtn shoe; somewhere in between an approach shoe and a full on mtn boot. They're stiff and climb/frontpoint well, but won't kill your feet walking on trails. I fit my pair slightly smaller (-1/2 size) than my street shoe for better performance on the more technical stuff. They also fit into a pack or carry on the back of a harness like regular approach shoes if/when you need to break out the rock shoes. Saves lots of space.

They don't have welts for pons, so that could be a deal breaker depending on your crampon configuration.

It's been a great shoe for my needs that fits in between mtn boots and approach-chacos.

[Seraphim]

The one having the most fun.

 

Sorry, couldn't resist.

 

I've been using Garmont Dragontails the past few seasons for almost all of my summer objectives where I might need crampons. I think of it as a lightweight, low top, mtn shoe; somewhere in between an approach shoe and a full on mtn boot. They're stiff and climb/frontpoint well, but won't kill your feet walking on trails. I fit my pair slightly smaller (-1/2 size) than my street shoe for better performance on the more technical stuff. They also fit into a pack or carry on the back of a harness like regular approach shoes if/when you need to break out the rock shoes. Saves lots of space.

They don't have welts for pons, so that could be a deal breaker depending on your crampon configuration.

It's been a great shoe for my needs that fits in between mtn boots and approach-chacos.

 

Those are pretty nice. Is this what you were talking about:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Garmont-Mens-Dragontail-Lite-Approach/product-reviews/B0046HA1EI

 

They look super comfortable and light weight. Might be perfect for easy alpine objectives. They look like a perfect compromise. Honestly sounds like the best shoe I have seen that is not a full on mountaineering boot.

 

Probably work best with aluminum crampons?

Edited September 13, 2014 by Seraphim